Hey all,

I've aquired another importand set of parts to build a
Twin eaton M45 superchared Lexus 1uzfe V8 32v monster of an engine.

and although this would not strike as locost to some, it didn't yet cost big money.

I have the
Engine, 480 euro's (JDM =2000)
4 laminova IC cores 80 euro's (125 each)
2 ex mini cooper S eaton M45 superchargers 220 euro's (350 each)
1 cut down intake manifold 30 euro's to mill flat
the desings ready to CNC the core housing (took 3 months)

the (prices) is what they normaly cost in holland so it's pretty locost sofar, and exept for the ECU all bigbuck parts are in.

the pully ratio is so that the SC's spin at top RPM (14k) at 6200rpm engine rpm all on stock parts! +/- 0.7/0.8 bar od overboost

the piece of wood that says 59.5cm to sump bottom is 0.5cm under the bonnet line, everything needs to be lower than that!

the engine as I bought it

1uzfe engine

the manifold on the engine

intake manifold cut down

Twin Eaton M45's

Mini Cooper S, eaton M45 Superchargers

The intercooler cores

Intercooler core detail

The core housing desings

IC core housing drawing

Grtz Thomas

[Edited on 22/6/07 by thomas4age]

[Edited on 22/6/07 by thomas4age]

Looking good thomas. Is this little lot still going in a GD T70? If so I assume you'll be at le mans in that next yer and not the striker!!

Keep us up to date with progress.

Ben.

Hey Ben,

good to see you've finnaly got some sence and bougth a 1600cc 20v engine whehhehee

Yes the lot is still supposed to go in that chassis, but it will probably take a good few years before that's ready. and then still I first need to find a new home for the striker to make room for the euurhm Large T70 4 by 2 meters..... half a meter bigger then the strikers footprint on all directions. whaaaaaa!

just make sure you'll get to le-mans 2008, 2007 was altough wet very very funny!

grtz Thomas

[Edited on 23/6/07 by thomas4age]

I'll be there next year. If I get time i'll post a couple of pics of the new build this week. Still very early days but I now have a very well stocked parts store so shouldn't take too long when we get going. At worst, a friend of mine signed up to the caterham acedemy for next year. Kit should arrive in early december so we could end up in that!

Ben.

How muh does the engine weigh Thomas?

I haven't weighed it up yet cause I can't be bothered to take it of it's stand vor that alone,
but lexus lists it at 119kg with intake system, so that's not to heavy. when it's time I'll take it of the stand to measure up the flexplate and weigh it on the scales.

but ad twin M45's in my case and I'l be up about 15kg, but they will make up for that in power no doubt.

Good going Ben come on and show us what you've got!

grtz Thomas

[Edited on 23/6/07 by thomas4age]

That is very light for a V8 if it turns out to be correct, seems a bargain way to big power as well.

Do you think those superchargers will be sufficient though, thinking that they came off a car where one produces ~160bhp, are two going to be enough for 400+ ?

Chris - The Mini's are able to push near 200BHP on the standard M45 superchargers (the more powerful models have uprated rotor material). So i would think 400 BHP is achieveable.

Ben - My under chassis exhaust manifold is spare now and I would probably sell my current 5" silencer too if that was of use?

Thomas - Jealous already of your latest project as the GD T70 has had a lot of engine mapping done at the garage I'm using. More specifically the LS7 engine based kit. If only I had the space, time and money I'd do one myself!

Hey all,

260hp is whats the absolute top in terms of flow, on a single stock 5th Gen M45. just is the 1uzfe head probably won't flow that good when stock.

The uprated material you talk about justin is the ceramic coating on the vanes, there's black and silver, Both Gen 5 though the black is the latest version. those are what I have.

anyway 400hp would seem adaquate to say the least, I know MR have been involved in the LS7 set-up brilliant work.

Just have to sell my sylva striker first to make room for the new chassis

Grtz Thomas

[Edited on 29/6/07 by thomas4age]

That is going to look fantastic. Id be tempted to skim the top of the inlet manifold down to remove the lexus bit and make a Lola plate for the top - or something along those lines.

With tubular manifolds etc it will be a work of art. Great project. Cant wait to see the progress posts.

The top-end of the manifold will not be used on the engine, a complete new topintake has been desinged which takes the intercoolers. that will be a flat piece of alloy 18cm by 42cm big on which I can engrave anything I want.

hmmm open for options!

ps Got a alternate alternator yesterday which saves a lot of room for the SC on the lefthand side of the engine.

it has become a block hugger below the exhaust system now! yippie first problem solved.

grtz Thomas

after setting up my new garage toy I thought I'd have some play with making up a few mountening brackets for the lefthand side M45 today (girls out with friends..... whatelse would you do?)

anyway I managed to make the first smalltime c**kup on the SC's I have made the vertical mount, but without having the outlet flange on the supercharger, (only the carbboard cover is on now) the flange will be 6mm thick so the mount is now 6mm to short... ah well cut and shut will probably solve that. otherwise it might prove usefull on the other side.... Oh jolly I need to do another one....

it's not fully supported on it's own yet, because I didn't have the time today to get the pulley's lined up perfectly. so once that's done using clamps I'll weld the 2 outlet mounts up to the horizontal bar which is allready on the engine.

just to make an excuse for the piccie's, this is the first all by myself purpose made weld EVER!, I doesn't look really good, but they at least stick.... (who was that mr silicon orso?)


M45 semi-fitted left side


leftside eaton rear vieuw

Grtz Thomas

ps had a drive in a LS1 powered cobra this week, and only now am I beginning to understand what I'm actually building that stuf is very quick!

[Edited on 11/8/07 by thomas4age]

No wonder we're fighting the arabs,
Thomas is nicking all their petrol,

hahahaha gezzer I don't even want to think about the amount it would consume on full throttle, but appart from that cruising should be very similair to the normal Lexus LS400 probably even better because of the weight of one compared to what Im thinking.

it will be a full bypass mode set up, so the SC's will only make boost under acceleration, and will be in 100% bypass when engine speed isn't rising anymore. the compresion is stock 10.5:1 so when of boost it'll drive like a stock engine, when on go...... whole different ball game and compression works against me probably, needs some juice against knock

grtz Thomas

[Edited on 11/8/07 by thomas4age]

So another day of fidling with the engine now sees #1 supercharger mounted to the engine, and the outlet flange made up, I've done that by hand completly using nothing but a hacksaw and a few files, and once again Oh jolly I need to do another one.....

here's piccies

the allingment of the pulleys is spot on in real whereas the piccie shows an offset gap between the ruler and the pully, it's within 1/10th of a milimeter overall.


pully allignment


completed left side


front left side


Mini M45 outlet flange

Grtz Thomas

Stupid question, but is that going in a seven, and if so, will blowers clear chassis rails, engine mountings, steering column etc etc etc

ATB

Simon

Simon,

No I don't believe its Thomas' plan to fit it in a seven. Like me I'll guess he knew which engine he wanted to use and just picked a chassis to suit. So the GD T70 is most likely where it'll end up.

Thomas,

Makes my SC bracketry look simple even though I cut n shut my bracketry by hand as well. At least I only had the one to do. The alignment can be out a bit when using belts but of course you want it perfect just like me.

My project took longer than I planned but since I've built my engine and bolted it in the chassis its worked perfectly and much better than I predicted! The only failure I've had was on the alternator bracket which worked loose due to insufficient bracing. I didn't make that part so at least I can blame someone else

Hey all,

after a few moths not working on the engine at all,
(lets just say that 2nd half of 2007 goes in a box and the box will burried on the north pole)
I've finnaly got around to get some quality time in the garage. so late december sees supercharger #2 fitted to the right side of the engine.
the brackets will be also suited with round tubes inside where the bolts pass through.

this one was allready on but there's now a 4age alternator with the 6rib 1uz pulley attached

left side + 4age alternator

Right hand side #2 eaton M45

rightside eaton front

front of the engine I'll only need 1 extra support pulley for the belt run,

engine front view TWIN eatons

sump stays the lowest point of the engine. it may not be higher than 60cm with intercoolers on top of the inlet manifold.

Twins fully mounted

belt run
Image deleted by owner

So on to the intercoolers now.

Grtz Thomas

[Edited on 28/12/07 by thomas4age]

[Edited on 28/12/07 by thomas4age]

id check first you can get a belt that big
adam

Gates have 6rib belts from 28.8" up to 120.3" in +/- 1.5" increasements, so there must be one availeble,
I could fit another 5 sc's propably before the longest one is to short, whahaha

OT but handy to know, gates numbers:

K06 means 6 rib belt (K04 = 4 rib)

in the # K061203 it says
6 rib 120.3" long on inner length (rib side)
in the # K060288
6rib 28.8" long on inner length (rib side)

the metric coding is like this,
PK62245
PK6 = 6 rib
2245mm long inner length (rib side)

the original belt is 2245MM (88.3" long

so that's covvered, there's a tension pully with a spring attached so that has some play, lets just hope it's strong enough.

grtz thomas

Looking good as usual!

Obviously this is an early stage and you already be aware of it but keep in mind you my need to add additional sprung tensioners in between the long belt runs. What I mean is you may get belt whip as the superchargers speed up and slow down under the huge dynamic loads.

Justin

Looking good Thomas.

My charger should be in the mail too!

Is there going to be enough friction to drive the alternator with that small contacted radius?

monster looking engine though makes my NA RV8 look puny.

Hey Justin,

I asked a long time ago about the length that a belt may run unsupported, but noone awnsered, can you tell anything consstructive?
I've seen guys run single M90 compressors with unsupported lengths bigger than my layout on the previous page , they dont seem to have problems,
there's also one difference in my system, the complete load of the SC system is devided over 2 pulleys, so belt slipage on the chargers should be OK (mini sport don't have problems with up to 220hp)

I'll measure the longest length unsupported but doubt that it is longer than 25cm. this engine is tiny

@ blueshift: I think I'll be allright, in the original mode it's about the same and I don't run a very big electrical system + the 4age alternator normaly runs on a 5 rib belt and it's niow converted to 6 rib so additional friction is allready there.
I tried to get as much wrap around the cranck pulley and SC pulleys I could, and was even willing to move the alternator to the driveshafts on the gearbox.

@Mave, Nice man going on the Zetec I suppose? if you find anything that let's us connect a throttle bodie to the supercharger entry please let me know, still looking for a cheap well thought solution.

Grtz Thomas

Hi Thomas,

Unless someone else has already done this same setup before then its just something to be aware of when the engine initially runs. Just get someone to watch and blip the throttle on off sharply to see what happens. More of a problem though if you don't have any sort of sprung tensioner in the system like on my engine!

In the picture below the small pulley at the top was added as a precaution against whip. Not to provide more wrap as you might first deduce. The OMEX installation has very similar belt runs to mine but they don't have the pulley at the top. On the rollers their setup spat off a belt on the first day of tuning. So they went away and revised their design. They still don't have the top pulley so maybe they have a sprung pulley at the bottom.

Justin


Rotrex brackets - front left

Hey I have that idler pulley on my 16v aswell, and is has a spring in it and a bolt.

hmmm maybe I'll get some zetec idler bearings of the breakers to mock something up...

grtz Thomas

hey all

Some time spend in the garage again this week, a bunch of little things taken care of, and a few big problems solved.

I have finaly got hold of some tubes that take the laminova cores, with a little help from an englishman in australia they even got over here in holland.
here´s one with the intercooler core inside, the fit is very tight as it´s supposed, the gap inbetween the tube wall and the fins is less than 0.04mm took a year searching but I knew this ID tube would be availeble somewhere. it's listed as a scaffold tube......

laminova cores in tubes YES!!!

also the I decided on the route of the belt driving the chargers and the alternator and I had to make a piece on the lathe that would carry an extra support pulley, and a few small alloy spacers for the left hand SC mount and the alternator, having a lathe is very very nice when making all pulleys line up, measure up what you need, turn and it fits right away
here's 2 simple spacers

T6 alloy bushes from lathe

the support pulley carrier took al little more measuring, the carrier also protudes into a 12mm hole drilled in the engine bracket, so the pulley is supported buy the carier and the bolt is used to tighten it up. it should be strong enough, the steps on the outer end are made so that the bearing inside the pulley fits tight on the carier. the thread in the head was M10 x 1.25 so a piece of threaded rod was bought ( expensive stuff....) got the bolts for free though.

T6 alloy support pulley carrier
here the pully is fitted

support pulley mounted

I also had to make a new alternator bracket, the alt don't need to swivel because the 1uz has a very clever pulley tensioner somewhere else, so it can be mounted solid.
the alt upper mount is bolted down into the engine it self the lower bracket is only there to stop it from turning on the upper bolt hole.

new alternator mount

once that was done I could finaly measure up the length of the new belt that I need, I did that with the tensioner held down with a "spanband"(don't know in english) and a piece of rope, it measures 261cm with tensioner held down and 266 with tensioner slackend. that's about 103" of belt to order from gates

the route with tensioner held down

belt run with tensioner

the allingment of the pulley's is about spot on, I can measure a 0.2mm run out at on the outer edge of the right hand SC pulley using the laser, I think that's about as close as I can get it using only a hacksaw, 3euro laser pointer (stripe) and digital calipers and a second hand 18yo cebora mig welder.

belt lines up 99,9%

so on with the intake manifold and intercoolers.........

hmm Question: I need to weld alloy now.....
time to buy a tig welder?
or have someone do it for me?
it must be neat because it's the first thing you'll see when to bonnet opens.

Grtz Thomas

well the transmission is also sorted, not your average lo-cost item but it wasn't to expensive at all. (twice as cheap as I had in mind actually) goes to show they can still be found if you look hard/long enough

a Porsche G50-03 from a 38K miles wrecked 911 3.6L 964 chassis,

I'm very happy because I would have thought this was gonna cost the earth,

I allready sold the UN1 box I had, will be going into a GT40 soon (doesn't fit the GD chassis)

piccie time

ok I know it needs a good cleaning session any tips on that btw???


porsche G50-03


UN1 and G50 side by side the piccie is a bit off btw because the G50 is larger than the Un1 but it doesn't show. (top is G50 btw)
[img][/img]

dimension piccies are in my album for anyone who wants them. CLICKY ME

happy man now, the most expensive part other than the kit itself is in the garage!

ps i've heard that a rover V8 presure plate fits a G50 splins input shaft..... true???

Grtz Thomas

[Edited on 10/3/08 by thomas4age]

[Edited on 10/3/08 by thomas4age]

Looking good

quote:

---

Originally posted by thomas4age

ok I know it needs a good cleaning session any tips on that btw???

---

Hi,

Looking good Thomas. Must be very satisfying doing the major mechanicals yourself!

Back to belts your install looks good and you're thinking about what your doing. Not just slapping it all together and hoping for the best. V belts will work fine with a good tollerance on alignment so you well within that I would say.

Not quite so straight forward for OMEX unfortunately. I mentioned about their first effort spitting the belt off. Well they had finished the CNC'd bracket design and had a production run of 10 made ready to get anodised. Only when one of the Rotrex guys paid a visit they pointed out the belt was not centered on the pulley! What Rotrex don't make clear is the belt must be in the middle of the pulley to balance the loads otherwise the bearings will fail. I had considered this on mine and so I won't be redesigning mine unlike OMEX

[Edited on 12/3/08 by bimbleuk]

Thanx for the tip benzine,
I'll try that, I have a canister like thingy that goes on the el cheapo compressor.
but what cleaner/degreeser is that? you used.
is it the soap based stuff or the petrol/thinner/terpentine solvent cleaner? I would not dare to risk the seals in thsi box...

@ Justin, I'm not sure I understand what you're trying to say, how can a belt run over a pully in correct alingment, and not be in the middle? can you make a drawing maybe? the bearings in the snout of the M45 are supposed to be very good.... though one can never be to sure.

also this box will be instorage for quite some time, what's best, drain the oil or leave it in?

Grtz Thomas

Thomas,

What I described is a peculiarity of the Rotrex drive pulley. The standard steel pulley can take a 7 v belt but a lot of production engines only use a 5 v belt like mine. So you could align the belt with the v nearest the Rotrex or the v at the outer edge of the drive pulley. Mine has an unsed v either side of the belt hence its sat in the middle. I believe they also don't sell alluminium pulleys anymore either as they flexed under load, again causing bearing failure.

The Eaton blowers are robust and proven so don't worry about it!

Ahh like that.

I would never use a combination of different ribbed pulleys in any apllication using eatons because of belt slippage. I'm lucky that I can have a 6 rib belt since the eaton pulleys are the same as the original lexus ones...

makes sence what you're saying.

thanx

anyway what about the gearbox storage question? should I store it with or without oil in it?

Grtz Thomas

Had some good playtime in the garage making fiddly parts to build up the intercooler system.

The idea is to place the finned core inside a tube, have the airflow over/inbetween the finns and the tube wall, and have coolant flow through the lentghwise holes in the core. the only thing that hasn't been done yet is to machine lengthwise solts in the tubes for the air to enter and exit the heat exchanger.
4 of these will sit side by side on top of the milled down lower intake manifold. which was machiened down by a friend of mine.


completly flat

Next up: the T6 tubes needed to be cut down in order for 4 of them being able to sit side by side on the intake manifold, and not interfere with the stock fuel rails, which I would like to keep.
also an 2mm alloy airbox will need to be build around the 4 heat exchangers.

so how do you fit 46cm tubes into a 40cm lentgh lathe? well you can. with some imagination.

I got the overall run out on this: buget lathe with a 5 cm overhung and not so acurate tailstock, fitted with a homebrew semi floating tube center, down to about 0.1mm over the total length of 460mm, the run out came when I had to take the tube out and swap it around to machine the part that is clamped in the jaws in this picture. that's close enough for me, as this is my 5th job ever on a lathe.

piccies
tube in lathe (tailstock overhung 5cm)

core tube in the Lathe

home made T6 tube center clamped to the normal livecenter.

home made live tube center

machining in action, diameter was 48.7mm and had to become 46.0mm made 4 passes on all 4 tubes, and use 2 cans of wd40 to cool everything down during machining, Auto feed is a MUST for this, but set it slow, the swarf cooming from the toolbit is vibrating so much it doesn;t show in this picture, it's comming of very steadily without noise which I'm told is good.... ???

machining core in lathe

quick rub with scotchbrite makes shiny

machining lathe on autofeed

There was end result on both ends,

saved some weight, had three buckets like this.

had 3 of these when finnished

but looks the buisness

they fit between the fuelrails

after that: the Lamionova cores will be inside the tubes, and need to be sealed of on both air and coolant sides. space is very limited and even a millimeter is key on the front side of the intercooler, because the front waterbridge is in the way, I would like to build everthing up keeping as much parts of the engine untouched, so I decided to make the endcap/seals inside the tubes instead of on the ends of it, saves 22mm's in total, but made a more difficult job. I decided on using 2mm thick Orings as seals. I used an online calculator to decide on the sizes of the Oring grooves. I sealed of one tube using these and tested it to 7bar of presure from the compressor they didn't leak so I think I'll be ok, I never build anything like this before so time will tell.......

shamed to say but I'm a little bit proud of myself, very rewarding making such nice looking shiny parts, shame the aren't vissible when in action.

piccies

hacksaw elbow grease 18tpi blade works wonders compared to 29tpi btw

hacksaw Elbow grease

inside of #2 machined to +/-0.02mm of prototype #1. trick is NEVER take it out of the chuck. for outside machining this piece is clamped from inside out in the 3jaw.

inside of end cap machiening in lathe

#1 & #2 finnished size difference within 0.02mm tollerance is much higher so pleased

endcaps for cores with Oring grooves

from raw material to finnished part YIPPIE

raw material to final product endcaps for Laminova cored intercooler

here's where the core Oring sits in the end cap/ring

Orings in place

here's a complete heatexchanger partly assembeld to show how it fits

partly assembeld heatexchanger

and for the fun of it a fancy display of parts

intercooler parts display

i need to make 4 complete sets as theres 4 cores. the proto endcap took 4 hours to make, getting everything to fit smoothly with destroying the Oring during assebly.
once all measurements where OK #2 took 1.5 hours from picking up the hacksaw to fitting the Orings. I think with some training of my right arm I can get that down to 1 hour per piece, so another 6 hours behind the lathe is in order.
One thing is for sure though, the machine has allready payed itself back. and I'm very happy with the quality of it, with some more practice I think I can get even better matching than the 0.02mm I now get.

next up: getting the airbox/manifold made up from 2 or 3 mm sheet alloy, and getting it welded up.

Grtz Thomas



[Edited on 27/5/08 by thomas4age]

[Edited on 27/5/08 by thomas4age]

why a hacksaw? Surely you camp the rod in the 3 jaw, machine out the inside and then the outside and then part it off :S

Nice work and very necessity is the mother of invention. But gloves on while workin a lathe??? we'd have got a right b*llicking as apprentices for that.

Machining the inside first and then parting of would mean the hole lentgh of rod would be in the lathe, I don't like that, because the toolbit partoff isn't upto anything over 20mm. I also cannot get over 20mm in the hollow part of the chuck so that would mean machining on an overhang, I think this way is better considering it's just a hobby lathe.

the gloves are tightfit dynema gloves, which you cannot possibly cut through. I'm not touching anythin while it's spinning but had a peice of swarf catapulted into my hand twice, so decided that gloves are in order.
these are very safe for this use, the lathe cannot pick them up by any chance, unless i would do something very stupid, and if I'd do that without gloves the mess would be about the same.

rule one in the book is NEVER touch a spinning part directly.

make sure the spinning part can never catapult your hand into the toolbit

I think I'm quite ok wearing these while working on the machine, do you know what Dynema is?

Grtz Thomas

I'm a bit late to this thread (how did I miss this !) but ..... what I would do is cut the bar long enough to make , say , three + parting off allowance and enough to hold on , then fully machine each one , and part off .
Holding a ring with a thin wall is not good - it probably wont be dead round.......
Allso - I never wear any kind of gloves while machining - they can easily be pulled into the machine , and rather than a lightly battered finger you will lose your hand completely.......trust me on this one , I worked as a turner for over ten years , so know what not to do

Hands still attached to body, took your advise i don;t wear gloves anymore behind the machines!

anyway
Update,

just before christmas, my beloved Sylva Striker finaly got sold, so with the funds in hand I orderd a Gardner Douglas chassis and all the bits to build it up to rolling chassis stage.
they will need approx 16 weeks to build the chassis, so I have exactly 3 months to complete the engine hardware...

I bought an aditional nice piece of garage lust! and started right away on the intercooler stack.

the new toy, Gosmeta Bf30 drilling milling combo with a deckel crosstable electrics are an Telemechanique Altivar Frequency drive that takes single phase 230V and puts out 3phase for the machine, it does 1.2KW so torque enough for this little 190cm tall 420kg heavy baby.



I made the flangeplates for the core housing that will hold the 4 alloy tubes. 5mm T6 plate drilled with bi-metal holesaw to 43.5mm diameter, d*mn that makes a mess! still have ally in my hair after 4 days


boring some more

after that I needed to turn 2 of the tubes further down in oder to get them in there, and make the undercuts from 46mm to 43.5 in order to fit them tightly into the plates. the undercut length was very important otherwise the laminova cores would not fit length wise, a big hassle withou digital readout on the machine but it got there.
when finnished the result was this,




exploded view of the partial intercooler

After tackwelding the tubes to the flangeplates I was finnaly ready to mill in the 15mm slots in which the air enters and exits. after this side is done the whole assembly will be turned over and the same thing needs to be done.
thing is I never operated a milling machine before, and I did 15mins of pratice runs on a block of T6 before I took the plunge
10mm 4cutter in the collet the Altivar set at 67hz doing about 500rmp's on the spindle and away it go's


milling slot 1

the mill is not operating to industry standards and it's an old B****rd but it gets there allbeit SLOWLY
2 hours later (measuring takes up most time the actual machining pass is within a minut per slot-length)


keep on milling

remember that when these 8 are done another 8 are in order..... Anyway the inside of the tube looks clean, no scarfing or chipping so the Laminova's will probably fit straigh away!


inside the core housing

I'll get a pro to weld the tubes in place completly because when I screw them up I'd be in trouble. remember I ordered the tube from australia... and I'm in europe + lots of time went into these.....

well that's were it stands so far hope you enjoy reading.

Grtz Thomas

quote:

---

Originally posted by thomas4age

well that's were it stands so far hope you enjoy reading.

Grtz Thomas

---

Thanx James

well I have been busy for a few days, here's the results

I made the intake collector box out of this 3mm alloy plate got some leftovers wich may be just enough to make a nice 2 liter fuel swirl pot aswell but that's not the isue right now.
I'm sorry to say that I forgot to make a picture of the box and all it's angle before welding it to the milled down lower intake manifold,
biggest hurdle to overcome was NOT having a plate bending brake, not wanting to pay for one as it has to go away again because of space issues, so I made up one with a few old parts I had lying around, it's not fancy but gets the job done.


via this

DIY plate bending brake

went into this within a half days work

intake box welded up

next up was getting the final assembly of the laminova housing done, this ment drilling the holes through the flanges where the tubes sit in and though the 30mm thick collant collectors at once to get a nice fit, first up was a 3,2mm drill so I could tap the flanges to M4, then the blocks got 4.2mm holes to give enough clearance to take the collector of again to fit the gaskets later on, and to fit the laminova cores offcourse.

so this:

T6 bar for coolan collectors

went into this (forgot to take loose piccies again but you get the point)
who can spot the F**kup I made, now be gentle....... WOOT

Lamonia housing complete

after that was the trial fit of the housing into the box, a bit of filing and fun with the dremel got me here:

test fit of housing in box

and the the big welding session was in order, I was not looking forward to this at all, I have the AC tig for only a short while and have not had much pratice buy any standard, so mixing and matching with the settings payed off, the welds are not all looking very nice, the straight beads are ok but there's some very nasty angles on the box on which the weldbead cannot be build up to much (stack of dimes rimple) because then the different parts cannot be dismantled later on. man this gave me the shivers.... one mistake and weeks of work are down the drian!

anyway results
rear:


frontview and test whether the coolant collector would still come of the thing, I was worried sick that the heat generated would warp the alloy so much the 0.2mm play in the M4 threads would be insufficient, and I had to swaw it off. the reason that the threads runn all the way though the box it that this way even if any of the inside lock-bolts ever decides to come loose it will never be able the enter the combustion chambers of the engine.
anyway it didn't:


next on was the test if the modified front waterbridge was still clearing the intake manifold, well no to be exact it barely touches it but still, a quick session on the mill solved it nicly.

result:


and in the end there where only to things to find out, what about the injector rails. I would like to use the stock ones because they're cheap!

they fit:


and what about the bonnet clearence, I know the top part of the intake hasn't been build yet but I need at least 17mm to keep in line with the "audi R8 Lemans 24H twin turbo engine"
I'm roughly copieng their intake which feeds air in via the side's at the top of the manifold instead of welding a tube straight on it, in order to build it very low.
look in the red circle:


so the air will enter via 15mm high slots over the complete lenght of the stack on both sides. so 15mm times 380mm is 5700mm/sq that times 2 gives a combined inlet area of 11400mm/sq which is big enough to pass twice the amount of air needed to make the horses I'm shooting for.

I calculated the hight on both sides about 6 months back and worried since if I would make it.
20mm's above the stack, and the stack floats around 35mm above the peer shaped intakes, inside the mani. e voila 20mm's for you sir?



so that's where I am now, I need to wait till the chassis gets here to diced the final position on the chargers. Maybe the fit maybe the don't, then I can decide on the piping path and start to build that up.

that's all folks!

Grtz Thomas

[Edited on 11/5/09 by thomas4age]

[Edited on 11/5/09 by thomas4age]

Very tasty Thomas.

Very nice! I'm using the same engine as you, but it's gonna be a long old time before I get to play with it! Looking at yours has given me inspiration to get me arse in gear

Hey Badger,

Are you using the engine stock or are you going to do some prepping aswell?

ps what car is it that you're building? any piccies or something?

Grtz Thomas

The engine will be stock in that the internals will be left alone (at least initially). Hopefully since I've got one of the older engines it should be able to handle 400/500 bhp or so (at the fly) with the aid of some suitable turbos or supers and a huuuuuuuge intercooler
The body shell of the car I'm using is a fibreglass Corvette C3 from a kit car called a lightning (I think!). The reason I bought it was I wanted a bodyshell and I got the car for £400. After I sold off the stuff I wasn't using I got a bodyshell (admittedly shabby) for about £150
No real pics at the moment I'm afraid, but this is kind of what I'm aiming for.
How long do you reckon before your chassis arrives mate? Can't wait for your next installment

hey Badger,

funny you asked!
just 15 minutes ago I recieved an e-mail of Mischa at Speedon Carworks, with a piccie of my own chassis in the jig at the Gardner Douglass factory.

we are aiming for 27may for pickup.

man this blurry piccie gave me the shivvers. this is MY chassis YES!!!



I've never come acros a kit car manufacturer that provides mid build/welding fotos of a chassis to a custumour, must say I really like this for an apatiser.

anyway, that Vette seems nice to, american cars are not my cuppa tea, but this one is nice, will it be roadlegal or track only?

grtz Thomas

[Edited on 13/5/09 by thomas4age]

I must confess I'm not so big on the American cars either, but like I said it was cheap It's going to be a roadlegal trackday style thingy.
It's really cool that they've sent you mid build pics, as you say I've never come across that before.

quote:

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we are aiming for 27may for pickup.

---

Hey Fred,

How are you doing? and the T70?

so euhhmmm more inspiration? what do you want to see

next month is going to be great. start on new build, 24H Le Mans,

grtz thomas

quote:

---

How are you doing? and the T70?

---

quote:

---

what do you want to see

---

will do when it gets here Fred,

But work before starting on the car itself will be pretty time consuming I think. first the engine and box mounts will have to be made, and then build up of all mechanical parts + welding in all bracatry for everything (eveything needs to be bought/made first) and then it's off to the powder coater, so before the actual finnishing build up will be in oder it will take a good year or so.... at least thats the time i prommised meself for doing things right and cheap

grtz Thomas

Alright, you've had 4 months.... where's the progress???

Cheers,
James

Okay, that's nearly 2 years... car must be on the road by now!

If that engine is really 118kg I'm pretty impressed, that makes it lighter than most 4 pots!? Shame they don't make a transaxle for it!

Another year gone!

Maybe he is out driving the T70 so much he Dont have time for LCB now.