Why is it I have so many probs with electrics. I wired up my indicators with bulbs in to test and all was fine. I have then fitted LED bulbs to the rear, LED side repeaters and front LED indicators. I have fitted a 10w LED flasher unit and they stay on ie wil not flash individually or on hazard. Re-tried the existing flasher unit with no luck.

The front indicators have 15 LED'S, repeaters 6 LED'S and rear have bulbs with 18 LED'S in, is there anyway of working out the wattage on these figures.
Barry

depends what wattage the LEDs are...
should be printed on the units really.
most are 0.12 watts if not used for anything special.
That would give you 4.68 watts...

Is the Flasher unit for a completely LED setup?

I think there are some that make the flash rate ok for when you add rear LED lights to a normal setup but don't work correctly for a toally LED setup.

I'd recomend this relay:
Ebay Flasher relay

works a treat on ours.

LEDs are far more efficient at converting electricity to light than filament bulbs, the latter produce a lot of waste heat.

A 21 W bulb would draw 2 Amps.

A typical LED, as found in bulbs would draw in order of 20 mA.

Assuming the LEDs are wired in parallel and not in series, when you do the math to see you would need 100 LEDs to draw the same current.

The ones your describe contain much less than that.

Flasher units work by heating up a bimetallic strip - when this is hot, it bends and it opens a circuit (lamps are off). It cools down, contact is remade and it starts to heat up again (lamps are on).

The current through the bimetallic strips determines how quickly it can heat up.

The LED lamps are supplying 1/100 th of the current filament lamps would whcich in insufficient.

Either you need LED lamps with a built in ballast resistor that makes them draw more current or far better fork out a tenner for an electronic flasher unit that is not dependent on the current.

AES do one.

http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/726

Pull the fuse out and stick a DMM on DC amps setting across the fuse holder termminals and measure the current.

Most if not all DMM's will measure up to 10 amp -- but any more than that and you will blow the internal fuse.