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Author: Subject: Bolt stuck in rubber suspention bush.
dhutch

posted on 14/5/09 at 06:42 PM Reply With Quote
Bolt stuck in rubber suspention bush.

Having failed my MOT on a leaking rear shock* im trying to get the bolts out and stuggling with one last one.
- Got it undone ok, but i cant get the bolt out of the shocks rubber bush.
- Turning the bolt turns the whole bush (in the shock eye) rather than the bolt in the bush, and trying to prybar it out against the chassis it damaging the chassis and not coming close.

Not room for a bloody big hammer, and i cant get the shock out to do it off the car (or bin the bolt with the shock and buy new).

Anyone got any big ideas



*i knew the shocks where shot, but had cleaned up in the hope of a pass with the intention of changing them later, but clear no such luck!
Still as my house mate says, i was looking for a justifcation for some new shocks, so i guess here it is. Rang Procomp at four today and am going to ring back and order a pair (set?) of protechs alu body jobs.


But yeah, thoughts on this bolt issue welcome!


Daniel

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Benzine

posted on 14/5/09 at 06:43 PM Reply With Quote
kit or tin top? On my daihatsu I burnt them out, great fun ^__^






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BenB

posted on 14/5/09 at 06:48 PM Reply With Quote
My plan would be to cut the head of a bolt of a slightly smaller size to use as a drift (to push out the bolt). Put it in the hole in the bush then use a long bit of metal bar as a lever to push against the bolt slug.

Another plan would be something like the pullers that you can get for removing push-on windscreen wiper arms.

Of course plan A is always remove bits to make enough space to get a drift and a flipping big hammer in there.

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Peteff

posted on 14/5/09 at 06:57 PM Reply With Quote
Blow lamp time





yours, Pete

I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.

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dhutch

posted on 14/5/09 at 06:57 PM Reply With Quote
Top end of of the rear dampers on the westfeild.
- Bolt can only go in one side, and you cant get a hammer on the other.
- Ive tried prying against the chassis but as i said the force im puting on it is just damaging the chassis material and im not even deforming the rubber let along breaking it free.

Some heat might be the option, but as i done have any here that would be a pain!

Clearly it just wants a bit belt with a hammer, but there no way to get one at it. A mini inverted puller would do, but agian, not something i have to hand!

Daniel

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SteveWalker

posted on 14/5/09 at 07:53 PM Reply With Quote
I've just had a similar problem on a Robin Hood. The steel tube in the centre of the bush rusts onto the bolt. I couldn't shift it no matter how hard I tried. I don't know about yours, but mine also had a spacer each side and that meant there was just enough space to get a cutting disk in and chop through the spacer and the bolt, leaving me with the task of sourcing bushes and 3/8" UNF high tensile bolts - just back together today.
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dhutch

posted on 14/5/09 at 07:54 PM Reply With Quote
Just tried to break it free by using the right sized socket between the thread end and the chassis and undoing a nut into the socket,geting it all tight, and then belting it with a hammer wherever i can, but im just bending the other side of u-bracket now. Error!!

If you burn it out, what are you actaully aiming for, give its going to be the bolt seized onto the inner coller of the rubber bush?
- Theres a bit much fibreglass a little to close to be geting anything very warm!

[Edited on 14/5/2009 by dhutch]

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rusty nuts

posted on 14/5/09 at 08:05 PM Reply With Quote
Can you get at the bolt to cut through it and the bush? Pad saw with a hacksaw blade works if space is tight.
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dhutch

posted on 14/5/09 at 08:09 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by rusty nuts
Can you get at the bolt to cut through it and the bush? Pad saw with a hacksaw blade works if space is tight.

Yeah, the more i think about it the more this is looking likely.
- There stainless bolts, and theres no room at all for anything (let alone a grinder and sliting disk) but a hours arse ache with a pad saw looks fav so far. Will have to cut it twice too i support. Double arse!

Or take it to procomp like it is, say nothing, and enquire how much it would be to have the new dampers fitted for me.


Daniel

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Richard Quinn

posted on 15/5/09 at 05:54 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by dhutch
Or take it to procomp like it is, say nothing, and enquire how much it would be to have the new dampers fitted for me.

Nice try but Matt has probably already read this thread. Why not just give him a call and see what suggestions he has. They do quite a lot of work with Westies so may have developed a technique to get round this issue.

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MikeRJ

posted on 15/5/09 at 07:43 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by dhutch
Yeah, the more i think about it the more this is looking likely.
- There stainless bolts, and theres no room at all for anything (let alone a grinder and sliting disk) but a hours arse ache with a pad saw looks fav so far. Will have to cut it twice too i support. Double arse!



Do you have a compressor? A reciprocating air saw will power through this in no time, it's the solution I used to the exact same problem.

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dhutch

posted on 15/5/09 at 07:06 PM Reply With Quote
Do you have a compressor? A reciprocating air saw will power through this in no time, it's the solution I used to the exact same problem.


True.
- I dont have a saw or a compressor, but i might take it to the local freindly garage and ask them to do it for me.

Eather that or the other thought from andy was to drill a hole in the web thats in the way and then you could grt drifting it out. Prehaps with a deep socket and lump hammer to give you something to hit against.


Daniel

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dhutch

posted on 20/5/09 at 09:29 PM Reply With Quote
Got it out today at last.

Ended up cutting through the one side with a ground down end of a hacksaw blade wraped in tape. Which took about an hour solid sawing (while talking to locost andy) and then took the head off the other side with an angle grinder flush with the outside of the u-bracket.

Had to bend the u-bracket out just a little bit to then get it out, but not too much.

Took about 2 tons to then force the section out bolt out of the bush on the hydrulic press. Rust was dry bar the 3mm at each end, despight four days of wd40 forty application. lol!


Daniel

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procomp

posted on 21/5/09 at 08:26 AM Reply With Quote
Hi

Have you put some preservative oil on the replacement bolts when re assembling.

Sorry couldn't resit coming out with that one.

Cheers Matt






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