tul214
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| posted on 11/7/09 at 02:36 PM |
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Setting up an Atlas Diff.
Anyone offer some help?
I have changed the crown wheel and pinion on my axle and it is now very stiff to turn.
What do I need to shim/adjust to set the correct backlash.
Oh and it is a quaife dif it it makes any difference?
Cheers,
Mark
[Edited on 11/7/09 by tul214]
1.6 Raw Super6 sold
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Litemoth
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| posted on 11/7/09 at 03:47 PM |
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You've opened a big ole can of worms here.
If you're new to 'fitting' and don't have the 'feel' then this job isn't for you. Otherwise, read on....
I've been round the houses a bit lately trying to glean info on diffs and the setting up thereof and it's like trying to join a secret
society. It's basically been done the same way for donkey's years but there's a lot of mystique surrounding this subject.
There are two basic aspects:
Depth of mesh - The amount the pinion penetrates the crownwheel's 'space' if you will. (this is adjusted by moving the pinion front
to back in its bearings with shims)
Backlash - The amount the differential standoff there is between it and the pinion (this is adjusted by moving the crownwheel/diff side to side in
it's bearings with shims or adjustable bearing housings) This is usually specified and set up with a DTI.
The setting is done by looking at the pattern the rubbing between the crown wheel and pinion makes when the crownwheel is coated with engineer's
blue (or similar) This has to be looked observed on the overrun and the drive sides of the teeth.
Getting it wrong will cause howl and whine (from you and diff) and cause it to wear.
It's not atlas speific but the principle holds GUIDE> LINK
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tul214
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| posted on 11/7/09 at 04:09 PM |
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Litemoth,
Thanks for the link.
I too have read lots and may just send the bits to Tom at Fostek but like most things, I wanted to give it a go.
I have set the pinion to what 'feels' like the right preload but when I tighten the diff bearing caps it all gets tight. It sort of feels
like I need to take out the shim in the pinion gear or move the shims on the diff bearings to pull the crownwheel across, but If I understand it
correctly I need to pull the bearings off each time to add/remove the shims.
Is this correct. If so ....what a ballache!!
Mark.
1.6 Raw Super6 sold
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Litemoth
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| posted on 11/7/09 at 04:17 PM |
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Just so i'm clear here....It's a sierra diff housing with an atlas LSD or is it an atlas axle?
What do you mean by "diff bearing caps" ??
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tul214
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| posted on 11/7/09 at 05:35 PM |
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To clarify, it is actually a Koln axle with a Quaife atb LSD.
I know that the escort boys hate these axles but it is brand new with new bearings and a very rare atb diff that was made specially for Tiger.
It came with a 3.77 CWP but I had a 4.11 so I have swaped the CWP over.
The diff bearing caps as I called them, are called 'carrier bearing race' in your link. It is when I tighten the bolts holding these races
in, the mesh between the pinion and crown wheel tightens up.
I can see 2 shims on the left hand side of the diff and none on the right. It looks like i need to pull off the carrier bearings and swap over these
shims until I get the correct backlash.
FYI...there is some good info on here;
Turbo Sport
[Edited on 11/7/09 by tul214]
1.6 Raw Super6 sold
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Litemoth
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| posted on 11/7/09 at 06:34 PM |
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Ah so it's a Köln axle. I understand where you're coming from and you have to stick with it now of course.
Sounds like you have quite a bit of binding there. Consider the option of reducing the shim under the pinion too. Don't assume the error comes
entirely from the carrier shimming.
Looks like it time to ache your balls and pull it apart / put it back together a few hundred times then.
Let me know how it goes...don't forget to blue it to check the mesh or it will last two minutes and whine.
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big_wasa
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| posted on 11/7/09 at 07:20 PM |
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I was jn the same boat, I just bought another axle.
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goaty
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| posted on 12/7/09 at 09:35 AM |
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sending my atlas to Gartrac to get it done.
Didn't wnt to risk it going wrong if i did it 
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