Northy
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| posted on 31/7/04 at 05:23 PM |
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Bias bar setup problems
Hi all,
I've got a Luego pedal box with bias bar, ang tried seting it up as they suggested today:
Put the car up on stands, and set the bar so that when the pedal is pressed so that the fronts just lock, the rears are just binding.
I did this, and all was well. I then tightened the nuts upto the bar ready to drill it, and tried it again. This time the fronts pedal was much
harder, and the fronts wouldn't lock! 
I worked out that as the pedal is pushed, the master cylinder for the front wheels gets greater travel, which makes the bar pivot round in a bit of an
arc (if you understand that poor description). When the nut is tightened upto the pivots on the bar, they don't allow the bar to pivot round in
the required arc (if you understand that, your then you've done well).
Right, lets get down to business, should the nuts be tightened right upto the pivots? If I leave a bit of slack, the bar could adjust and do the same
thing! Does anyone know how I should set this thing up!!!????
Cheers
Graham
Website under construction. Help greatfully received as I don't really know what I'm doing! 
"If a man says something in the woods and there are no women there, is he still wrong?"
Built 2L 8 Valve Vx Powered Avon
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Wadders
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| posted on 31/7/04 at 06:23 PM |
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You got it, the nuts shouldnt be tight up, leave a bit of play, i packed mine out on the right hand side with a big spacer before drilling and
pinning, that way you dont risk damaging the thread, should you want to junk the pin after sva. from memory, the left hand side only had a few
threads sticking out after the nut.
If you cant understand my shite description, let me know and i'll take some photos tommorow.
Al.
i]Originally posted by Northy
Hi all,
I've got a Luego pedal box with bias bar, ang tried seting it up as they suggested today:
Put the car up on stands, and set the bar so that when the pedal is pressed so that the fronts just lock, the rears are just binding.
I did this, and all was well. I then tightened the nuts upto the bar ready to drill it, and tried it again. This time the fronts pedal was much
harder, and the fronts wouldn't lock!
I worked out that as the pedal is pushed, the master cylinder for the front wheels gets greater travel, which makes the bar pivot round in a bit of an
arc (if you understand that poor description). When the nut is tightened upto the pivots on the bar, they don't allow the bar to pivot round in
the required arc (if you understand that, your then you've done well).
Right, lets get down to business, should the nuts be tightened right upto the pivots? If I leave a bit of slack, the bar could adjust and do the same
thing! Does anyone know how I should set this thing up!!!????
Cheers
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Viper
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| posted on 31/7/04 at 06:25 PM |
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the bias bar needs to pivot about its central uniball bearing, if you have the clevis's to close to the pedal the bar won't pivot, if
luego have done there job, the master cyl shafts should be straight, not toeing in or toeing out, so to speak..
is that as clear as mud??
Tim
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Northy
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| posted on 31/7/04 at 07:09 PM |
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Wadders, thats great, just as I suspected then! I picture would be great though still if you could just so that I'm certain. 
Viper, there is a small gap between the clevis's and the pedal, its the nuts that its binding on. The cylinder shafts are straight aswell.
Crystal clear mate, crystal!
Cheers
Graham
Website under construction. Help greatfully received as I don't really know what I'm doing!
"If a man says something in the woods and there are no women there, is he still wrong?"
Built 2L 8 Valve Vx Powered Avon
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