Photo Archive
Building: Sold turboblade, back to tin tops
posted on 24/4/15 at 05:18 PM
Getting ready for sprinting
I dabbled my toes last year, a couple of events so spent today getting the car together for the weekend.
Corner weighting using bathroom scales, I had to double up for the rears with a couple of lumps of wood.... My car has become Lardy since being built
In stones....
nsr 25.5 nsf 19
osr 26 osf 19
Total then 90.5 stone, wet including me, I,m 13.5 stone so unladen 77 stone or 493 kg which is heavy.....
Took ages to get this sorted, luckily I have a two post ramp so lifting and dropping onto scales was not overly painful.
I,m not sure where I could shed weight either as it's as basic as possible, scales may not be true of course but I did swap them around and got
comparative measurements so I am sure the balance is good.
Rear camber 1 degree negative, tad toe in
Front camber 2 degrees negative, tad toe out with 7 degrees caster
Ride height, 3.5" front, 4" rear.
Took me all day, still it's done so will find out if I am in the ballpark on Sunday.
Any reason for the toe out on the front mark? Also what tyres are you using?
Good luck this weekend and try to travel further up north at some point!(blyton?) so we can catch up.
There's a cracking weekend there in July with the westfield club.(jeff w will fill you in) that would be an excellent weekend to test yourself
against some very very quick 7 type cars. Think 65 secs from standing start at blyton quick!
Photo Archive
Building: Sold turboblade, back to tin tops
posted on 24/4/15 at 07:31 PM
Second hand slicks if it stays dry, I also have a set of scrubbed yoko 048's for the rain, Looking at the weather reports for it may end up
being a lottery anyway!
A little toe out on the front helps cornering but makes it a little more twitchy on the straights, wears tyres faster so not for road use.
Toe in on the rear helps keeping it straight braking into the bends, my car is fully rose jointed so it's only a tad, 1/2 degree maybe, on
rubber bushes you need a bit more.
I,m also doing the AMOC sprint series so will be venturing north in that, we have a sprint at Blyton but will be in my DB7.
23rd May - Prescott Bugatti Owners Club; 7th June - Harewood BARC; 4th July - Shelsley Walsh MAC; 26th July - Wiscombe Woolbridge Motor Club; 9th
August - Blyton MDA; 30th August - Loton Park (Hagley & District CC); 20th September - Curborough (AMOC).
Photo Archive
Building: Sold turboblade, back to tin tops
posted on 24/4/15 at 07:34 PM
My plastic bikers suit is in the bag! Last time I drove in the rain the seat filled with water off the front wheel so I need to drill some holes in
the seat !
It's all about preparation if you want to do well, the steep learning curve is about to start.
Photo Archive
Building: Sold turboblade, back to tin tops
posted on 24/4/15 at 08:27 PM
No reverse, sports libre .....
I debated putting in an Electric reverse and going to a road going class but this year I want to gain experience and avoid helipads!
The little car is then making use of what I have, I want to win my class in the AMOC so have been investing in my DB7 over the last year, last things
to fit are Michelin cup sport 2's, on order and a flywheel I lightened so this has been devouring my cash but stands the best chance of getting
the class crown.
I really need a camera.
A quick google later
A15 is reasonably durable and gives good grip while A91 gives a bit more ultimate grip but is less durable and more sensitive to heat build up. At
Shelsley, A91 works well (but you will probably need 1 set for practice and 1 set for competition runs) whilst Harewood, for instance, eats A91
compound particularly on the FL. The choice is yours but the safe bet is A15 all round while you learn the game.
Photo Archive
Building: Sold turboblade, back to tin tops
posted on 24/4/15 at 10:08 PM
Makes my £15 a corner look very cheap scape !
Try as hard as I can and they will not wear down anymore, it's as if they collect rubber!
Just been sent the layout for North Weald, lots of hairpins which I hate as I can never seem to drive them right, just overshoot or cut in close and
go wide best get googling the way to tackle these, I suspect you need to turn away then cut back close to the cone on your way back oj yank the
handbrake and hope.
Wouldn't use the handbrake but I always struggle with understeer in the tight bends too!
And yeah. That's the issue with the avons. They collect every bit of rubber and stones on the way round and need constant scraping after every
run!
Photo Archive
Building: Sold turboblade, back to tin tops
posted on 24/4/15 at 10:25 PM
I'm okay on U bends, turn in late and catch the end of the apex on the way out as you boot it, they have a lonely cone at the end of s straight
which I will struggle with, a 270 degree bend as you cross yourself.
