VinceGledhill
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| posted on 28/12/16 at 11:21 PM |
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How to avoid ruining the wheel bearings - Electrolysis?
Hi People.
My running gear for my latest project is an MGF with pressed in wheel bearings.
Any idea how I can protect the bearings whilst cleaning the hubs by Electrolysis?
I would remove them, but I don't have access to a 30 tonne press.
Regards
Vince Gledhill
Time Served Auto Electrician
Lucas Leeds 1979-1983
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cliftyhanger
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| posted on 29/12/16 at 08:46 AM |
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If you really must use electrolysis (or almost any other rust removal technique) you need to get the bearings out.
Plenty of garages/workshops should be able to help out for not-a-lot.
Next issue, if you replace the bearings with new, make sure you buy quality. I bought genuine rover ones, rather more expensive but for the grief
involved it is a reassurance. Turkish/polish/russian bearings are too risky.
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 29/12/16 at 10:30 AM |
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Pressing the bearings out is likely to destroy them when pressing the drive flange out .
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loggyboy
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| posted on 29/12/16 at 10:47 AM |
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Degrease them well and dunk them. When done ensure they are well dried and regreased. I can't see how it would be detrimental to them.
Mistral Motorsport
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Camber Dave
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| posted on 29/12/16 at 12:44 PM |
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"I can't see how it would be detrimental to them"
If it is possible to remove and refit the bearing by pressing on the face retaining the bearing
(inner ring off a shaft OR outer ring out of a housing), you are correct.
Often it is necessary to press or drive it from the opposite ring.
This causes small indents on the balls and tracks that cause premature wear in bearing.
For this reason ALL bearing should be fitted by pressing or drifting on the appropriate ring, avoiding spot loads on the balls/rollers.
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loggyboy
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| posted on 29/12/16 at 01:34 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Camber Dave
"I can't see how it would be detrimental to them"
If it is possible to remove and refit the bearing by pressing on the face retaining the bearing
(inner ring off a shaft OR outer ring out of a housing), you are correct.
Often it is necessary to press or drive it from the opposite ring.
This causes small indents on the balls and tracks that cause premature wear in bearing.
For this reason ALL bearing should be fitted by pressing or drifting on the appropriate ring, avoiding spot loads on the balls/rollers.
I was talking about the electrolysis not pressing.
Mistral Motorsport
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russbost
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| posted on 29/12/16 at 01:36 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Camber Dave
"I can't see how it would be detrimental to them"
If it is possible to remove and refit the bearing by pressing on the face retaining the bearing
(inner ring off a shaft OR outer ring out of a housing), you are correct.
Often it is necessary to press or drive it from the opposite ring.
This causes small indents on the balls and tracks that cause premature wear in bearing.
For this reason ALL bearing should be fitted by pressing or drifting on the appropriate ring, avoiding spot loads on the balls/rollers.
I think you've missed loggyboy's point - if you leave the bearings in then you aren't going to damage them removing & refitting
- the Q is "why should electrolysis damage bearings?" &, so far as I can see & in my own experience, tho' I am no
metallurgist, the electrolysis should only affect them if they are rusty - if bearings are rusty they are already shot to pieces. I've used the
original second hand Toyota bearings on all of my builds & despite several 1000 miles of use prior to sale have never needed to replace one. I
have subjected the hubs to electrolysis, other rust removal methods such as wire brush etc., & had them machined - all done with the bearings in
place.
For electrolysis etc. I pack the bearings with extra grease, then once cleaned, degrease & repack with fresh grease, for machining I find a
suitable plastic cap which I cut to shape & insert to cover the bearings, then cover any gaps with grease from the outside. Once machined, remnove
the cap, degrease & repack - never had a problem, maybe I'm just lucky - but judging by my usual luck I rather doubt it!! 
However I have never once succeeded in removing a bearing of the pressed in type & been able to salvage it for refitting, removing that type of
bearing invariably results in damage to one or other part of the bearing in my experience
I no longer run Furore Products or Furore Cars Ltd, but would still highly recommend them for Acewell dashes, projector headlights, dominator
headlights, indicators, mirrors etc, best prices in the UK! Take a look at http://www.furoreproducts.co.uk/ or find more parts on Ebay, user names
furoreltd & furoreproducts, discounts available for LCB users.
Don't forget Stainless Steel Braided brake hoses, made to your exact requirements in any of around 16 colours.
http://shop.ebay.co.uk/furoreproducts/m.html?_dmd=1&_ipg=50&_sop=12&_rdc=1
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NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
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coozer
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| posted on 29/12/16 at 02:01 PM |
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As said, electrolysis only affects iron oxide. Just leave them in and do it then make sure they are bone dry and regreased if your leaving them in to
use...
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
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britishtrident
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| posted on 29/12/16 at 03:05 PM |
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You can't do it single bearing --- the electrolyte or pickling solution will seep in past the seals and get trapped and threre is no way
to clean it out and regrease..
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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Camber Dave
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| posted on 29/12/16 at 08:00 PM |
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Loggyboy and Russbost
I did misunderstand the post, sorry, and broadly agree that if the bearings are open they can be cleaned after Electrolysis
Brain sludging up in a cold workshop!
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Slimy38
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| posted on 29/12/16 at 11:45 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by russbost
For electrolysis etc. I pack the bearings with extra grease, then once cleaned, degrease & repack with fresh grease
I don't know a great deal about the process, but this is what I will be doing for my uprights. Hopefully the grease itself will keep the
solution out, as well as disable the process for the bearings (I believe electrolysis is very much 'line of sight'?).
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loggyboy
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| posted on 30/12/16 at 12:35 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Slimy38
quote:
Originally posted by russbost
For electrolysis etc. I pack the bearings with extra grease, then once cleaned, degrease & repack with fresh grease
I don't know a great deal about the process, but this is what I will be doing for my uprights. Hopefully the grease itself will keep the
solution out, as well as disable the process for the bearings (I believe electrolysis is very much 'line of sight'?).
I wouldn't say 'very much', but rotating the objects certainly helps, as with all circuits, the charge will take the easiest route.
Mistral Motorsport
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VinceGledhill
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| posted on 30/12/16 at 04:46 PM |
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The bearings are the "press in" type, it's an MGF so there's no way of re-packing them when the electrolysis has finished
it's stuff.
Regards
Vince Gledhill
Time Served Auto Electrician
Lucas Leeds 1979-1983
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russbost
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| posted on 30/12/16 at 06:05 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by VinceGledhill
The bearings are the "press in" type, it's an MGF so there's no way of re-packing them when the electrolysis has finished
it's stuff.
Stick 'em in the oven at 50 degrees for a couple of hours, I can't see much moisture being left after that! There might be a tiny amount
of soda powder, but wouldn't have thought that would be harsh/abrasive enough to do any damage? If the bearing seals are intact & you smear
grease over any accessible opening & the back of the seals, you shouldn't have any significant moisture in there in the first place - if the
seals were that poor then the bearings would be getting a bath in salty water every winter!
I no longer run Furore Products or Furore Cars Ltd, but would still highly recommend them for Acewell dashes, projector headlights, dominator
headlights, indicators, mirrors etc, best prices in the UK! Take a look at http://www.furoreproducts.co.uk/ or find more parts on Ebay, user names
furoreltd & furoreproducts, discounts available for LCB users.
Don't forget Stainless Steel Braided brake hoses, made to your exact requirements in any of around 16 colours.
http://shop.ebay.co.uk/furoreproducts/m.html?_dmd=1&_ipg=50&_sop=12&_rdc=1
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NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
|
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