kevyo89
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| posted on 31/12/18 at 06:16 PM |
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My salvage Locost build!
Hi guys,
I'm completely new to the forum and new to the kit car scene but please let me introduce myself - my name is Kevin and I am from Belfast 
My dad and I did always plan to build one of these once he retired but he's retired almost three years now and never got around it.....until
now!
Our Car:
This was a bit of an impulse buy from eBay - I won lot for a cheeky bid of £250, which I am happy with but feel free to let me know if you think I am
daft! The seller tells me it's straight and I have to take his word for it until the courier delivers it next week. He said it was built as per
the Ron Champion book 'Build your own sports car for as little as £250' and is therefore ready to take a live axle. There is a MK2 Escort
steering rack fitted and the steering column has been done. He is throwing in some shocks, a nose cone, scuttle, front wishbones, some master
cylinders, a steering wheel and a copy of the original Ron Champion book!
I picked up a copy of Chris Gibb's book but have since realised that this is a different build with the most noticeable difference being the
independent rear suspension setup. I considered the idea of modifying this chassis (providing it's straight) to become an IRS setup but I think
it's maybe a better idea to stick to the original build plans and make it as good as it can be.
My plans for the car
- 1.8 MX5 Engine + gearbox (purchased pending collection)
- Capri English axle/Atlas (if I can find one at a reasonable price)
- GAZ shocks (purchased pending collection)
- Cortina Uprights (purchased pending collection)
- Wilwood brakes
- Turbo kit + management (once it's running and driving perfectly etc)
- Roll cage
- LSD
My plans for the build
- Initially I want to give it a once over and make sure it's straight etc before fitting the wishbones and shocks
source a rear live axle to have it rolling
- Mount the engine and drivetrain
- Make + fit the rollcage
- Purchase + fit the body work
- From here, I will then work on making the car road legal, but in reality this will be used as a track car
Although we have had a couple of GSXR-engined buggies before which were bought as unfinished projects and rebuilt before selling on, we are new to the
kit car scene. We both have limited welding experience but we're both meticulous and keen to learn. I do want to keep and track this little car
myself though so extra extra attention will be paid to everything we do.
I would be really appreciative of any input, good or bad as this is a huge learning curve for myself and my dad, and we're here for advice
Anyway, here are the pics of what I am patiently waiting to be delivered (next week some time)
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snapper
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| posted on 31/12/18 at 06:36 PM |
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You could fit a narrowed DeDion and use the Sierra diff.
I have a width adjustable DeDion I was going to use in my Fury build but have now bought a narrowed Sierra it’s set up
I eat to survive
I drink to forget
I breath to pi55 my ex wife off (and now my ex partner)
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kevyo89
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| posted on 31/12/18 at 06:39 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by snapper
You could fit a narrowed DeDion and use the Sierra diff.
I have a width adjustable DeDion I was going to use in my Fury build but have now bought a narrowed Sierra it’s set up
Hi mate, I was a bit concerned about deviating too much from the plans as neither myself or my dad are experts. I would consider this option though -
have you got any pics and a price? Where are you located?
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PumaWestie
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| posted on 1/1/19 at 06:20 PM |
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It looks as if some chassis tubes from the transmission tunnel have been removed
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BenB
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| posted on 1/1/19 at 06:54 PM |
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Some of those welds look a bit superficial IMHO (though I am no expert).
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slingshot2000
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| posted on 1/1/19 at 07:01 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by PumaWestie
It looks as if some chassis tubes from the transmission tunnel have been removed
Also, the diagonal from the front of the passenger side foot well to the forward cross piece appears to be missing.
(I don't have the book in front of me at the moment, otherwise I would quote you the tube numbers). I am sure if you have a read of the book or
flick through the diagrams in the book, while being to look at your chassis you will be able to see which I mean.
[Edited on 1/1/19 by slingshot2000]
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kevyo89
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| posted on 2/1/19 at 02:45 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by PumaWestie
It looks as if some chassis tubes from the transmission tunnel have been removed
Yeah I think they have been as he was fitting an MX5 engine so it needed modified. I should have it next week so I'll get a better look at what
needs doing
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johnnybizzle1986
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| posted on 3/1/19 at 01:02 PM |
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Absolute Bargain, great project,
I would stick with the early 1.6 mx5 engine and gearbox if you are looking to turbo in the future and maybe a standalone ecu for future mods.
I would stick with the live axle, I have modified a ron champion chassis to become a IRS rear suspension before.
cant wait to see your progress
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kevyo89
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| posted on 3/1/19 at 08:51 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by johnnybizzle1986
Absolute Bargain, great project,
I would stick with the early 1.6 mx5 engine and gearbox if you are looking to turbo in the future and maybe a standalone ecu for future mods.
I would stick with the live axle, I have modified a ron champion chassis to become a IRS rear suspension before.
cant wait to see your progress
Thanks mate, I'm itching to get it delivered and get working on it. I'm a complete novice with this but I'll do my best.
Any particular reason for sticking with an early 1.6 mx5 engine and box over a 1.8? Reason I ask is because I've a full engine, box, loom etc
lined up from a low mileage 1.8 (£250 for the lot)
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johnnybizzle1986
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| posted on 4/1/19 at 09:49 AM |
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I was thinking more for the turboing stage, from my understanding, the early 1.6 engines were from a 323 gti which were turbos, so the early mx5
engine was designed to take a turbo. has a tapped hole in the side of the block for oil feed line etc. not saying later one cant be turbod Im sure
they have been.
If you need any help be sure to put in on the group or U2U directly. Ive built a few locosts/haynes roadsters now bike and car engined. Im racing a
GBS zero that I built last year, same as you a bargain on ebay couldnt resist.
regards Jon
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kevyo89
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| posted on 4/1/19 at 10:31 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by johnnybizzle1986
I was thinking more for the turboing stage, from my understanding, the early 1.6 engines were from a 323 gti which were turbos, so the early mx5
engine was designed to take a turbo. has a tapped hole in the side of the block for oil feed line etc. not saying later one cant be turbod Im sure
they have been.
If you need any help be sure to put in on the group or U2U directly. Ive built a few locosts/haynes roadsters now bike and car engined. Im racing a
GBS zero that I built last year, same as you a bargain on ebay couldnt resist.
regards Jon
Ahhh I see - that makes sense actually! I've already bought the 1.8 engine though! lol. Ahh well, I will go with it and hopefully I can work it
out!
thanks for the help btw, much appreciated - I will be picking your brains no doubt.
P.S. Bike engine vs car engine in terms of build cost - is going bike engined much more expensive?
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johnnybizzle1986
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| posted on 4/1/19 at 01:12 PM |
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I think you will be happy with 1.8 mx5 engine. 130bhp ish? in a 550kg car
Might be worth looking at the Ma7da series regulations on the 750mc website, it a new race series Ron Champion Locost chassis but using the 1.8 mx5
engine and box, uno for in the future.
also give the IVA manual a read if you are at some point wanting to put it on the road, its easier to build with the IVA in mind than having to
dissamble the car later to reroute stuff and add extra clips, change bolts move lights etc.
I didnt find a great deal of difference cost wise with bike engines, they're cheap performance, cheaper than tuning a car engine, but if you
fancy bike engine car, start the build as a bike engined car, I found its more work converting one to the other.
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kevyo89
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| posted on 4/1/19 at 05:07 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by johnnybizzle1986
I think you will be happy with 1.8 mx5 engine. 130bhp ish? in a 550kg car
Might be worth looking at the Ma7da series regulations on the 750mc website, it a new race series Ron Champion Locost chassis but using the 1.8 mx5
engine and box, uno for in the future.
also give the IVA manual a read if you are at some point wanting to put it on the road, its easier to build with the IVA in mind than having to
dissamble the car later to reroute stuff and add extra clips, change bolts move lights etc.
I didnt find a great deal of difference cost wise with bike engines, they're cheap performance, cheaper than tuning a car engine, but if you
fancy bike engine car, start the build as a bike engined car, I found its more work converting one to the other.
Yes well that's before turbo'ing so hopefully over 200 by the time that I do get it completed. I would be wanting to have it IVA'd
as soon as possible so I guess reading the manual is a must before anything else.
What bike engines have you fitted to your cars?
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johnnybizzle1986
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| posted on 5/1/19 at 09:42 AM |
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I've put cbr1000 in one and kawasaki zzr1200 in another
I have to cars at the minute one with st170 engine on bike carbs and my race car is fuel injected blacktop zetec
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kevyo89
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| posted on 5/1/19 at 11:55 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by johnnybizzle1986
I've put cbr1000 in one and kawasaki zzr1200 in another
I have to cars at the minute one with st170 engine on bike carbs and my race car is fuel injected blacktop zetec
ZZR1200 sounds nice! Lol what sort of power did it produce? Would it or the CBR1000 have been the fastest?
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kevyo89
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| posted on 6/1/19 at 05:39 PM |
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So I gathered some bits for the build today:
2004 Mazda MX5 1.8 VVT engine, gearbox, full wiring loom, clocks, ignition, propshaft etc:
Brand new GAZ Shocks (guy I got them off bought them and they sat in his garage unused):
New Cortina Uprights:
I got the lot for £500 which I think is a bargain!
[Edited on 6/1/19 by kevyo89]
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kevyo89
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| posted on 8/1/19 at 05:48 PM |
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More bits purchased:
52" Atlas axle
New Welder
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kevyo89
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| posted on 5/3/19 at 05:13 PM |
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So I stopped posting updates on this thread because I couldn't figure out how to upload an image that wasn't huuuuugee. However, I think I
have it figured so here is an update comprising everything that we've done over the last 2 months - quite a lot to be honest.
Starts of the cage:
Front arms in (Haynes Roadster spec, made to fit Locost with Cortina uprights):
Compbrake Pedalbox purchased:
All arms in and checked for fitment:
Sorting out the top shock mounts:
Setting A-arm angles at ride height:
Couldn't help but throw the bodywork on
Carbon seats purchased:
Nardo grey wrap is the colour of choice:
Engine mounts tacked up:
Engine test-fitted:
Had to modify the gearbox to clear the transmission tunnel:
Roll cage started:
Roll cage almost there:
Rosejointed panhard rod done:
Steering column mounted:
Custom propshaft sorted (MX5 prop shorted with a ford capri flange to mate to the capri diff):
Stripped it all back for sandblasting:
Sandblasted and looking clean :
Etch-primed:
Painted
Seat, harness and pedal box fitted:
MX5 lower steering column modified and pinned to a ford lower shaft:
MX5 sump shortened and modified for turbo oil-return fitting:
Steering column and wishbones on:
Brakes on:
That pretty much brings me to this very day. I do think the steering wheel sits a little high so I will be modifying the column a little this week. By
the weekend, I will have the engine painted and fitted, axle in with some rose-jointed rear arms and hopefully my brake lines started
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mark chandler
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| posted on 5/3/19 at 09:55 PM |
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Looking good, you really need some Y braces or a diagonal in that engine bay, I assume you will be added a removeable one once the engine is
installed?
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kevyo89
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| posted on 5/3/19 at 11:07 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by mark chandler
Looking good, you really need some Y braces or a diagonal in that engine bay, I assume you will be added a removeable one once the engine is
installed?
Thanks. Do you mean a brace between the bulkhead and the side of the chassis? I'd planned to make up a bolt in one (or maybe two) when I know
where the engine/turbo is going to sit.
Any ideas?
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mark chandler
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| posted on 6/3/19 at 03:16 PM |
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Yes, you need som triangles in there to stop it flexing 
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Mike Wood
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| posted on 31/12/19 at 08:33 AM |
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Hi
Are you planning sprinting/hillclimbing or racing the car?
If so, have you read the MSUK Yearbook for correct specification of the roll cage including tube size, thickness, material spec and arrangement of
tubes? You will probably need a rear diagonal bracing bar. Also any series/championship technical regs.
Thanks
Mike
[Edited on 31/12/19 by Mike Wood]
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