John G
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| posted on 16/6/21 at 01:52 PM |
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Reccommend a steering wheel boss for Ford collum
My Phoenix has a Ford steering collum with a standard plastic cowl. I am to fit a QR steering wheel to replace the standard ford one. What are my
options for boss adapters etc? Antone have ideas on changing from the stalk to seperate switches for indicators, dip, main etc?
Any pictures would be welcome.
Regards Jon
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big_wasa
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| posted on 16/6/21 at 03:00 PM |
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I picked up my new project and after a comment of “ best to isolate the battery when your not using it to stop it going flat “ I took a peek. 
So before I’ve even driven it I’ve ripped the lot out. 
I took the hacksaw to the steering lock  and spun the column up in the lathe. I found a collapsible boss and chopped the teeth of.
Ive the turned up a sleeve to make it look a little more seamless. It’s still all wants painting.
I’ve made up a temporary dash so I can play with position of the switches ect. It will get replaced latter in the year with some carbon 
I haven't got as far as a Qr boss yet, which is what you asked in the first place. But the plan is to get a descent one. Weld it into some
seamless CDS and mount it in a couple of self aligning bearings.
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Mr Whippy
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| posted on 16/6/21 at 03:15 PM |
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If the car is still to go through the SVA or just generally staying alive, make sure you go for one that is collapsible in a crash. Momo & Simoni
both make these. Their usually easy to tell as they have a flexible rubber bellow rather than some cast affair.
Also if you keep the steering lock, make sure you still run the ignition through it rather than just a dashboard start button. As if you bypass the
ignition switch but keep the steering lock, it's all to easy (from personal experience) to drive off with the steering lock still on which is a
bit scary.
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John G
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| posted on 16/6/21 at 03:54 PM |
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Thanks for the reply, it is already registered and does not have a steering lock. It has start button as it has a Kawasaki engine.
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adithorp
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| posted on 16/6/21 at 05:55 PM |
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Removable bosses have a few common failings. Most require a "slug" welding to the shaft. Play between them and the shaft is common ( and
really annoying IMO). Difficulty aligning the wheel when fitting and security once on are bigger issues. One member on here (name escapes me) had his
come off at speed on the motorway and couldn't get it back on before totaling the car.
Of all the removable steering wheel boss' I've seen, this is the only one I'd be happy with...
http://www.plays-kool.co.uk/acatalog/Rapfix-Racing-212.html#SID=58
It has zero play in it, is easy to fit and self aligns/locks and if you send them the shaft they'll weld the slug on for not a lot.
Not cheap though.
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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John G
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| posted on 16/6/21 at 06:23 PM |
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Thanks for the advice, worth knowing regarding safety. So if I stick with a fixed wheel what are the options for tidying up the cnsole to have it
more "sparse" and having an adaptor from the ford colum to a more sporty wheel?
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big_wasa
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| posted on 16/6/21 at 07:14 PM |
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Just type into eBay Sierra steering wheel boss. Decide on the wheel you like and get a boss to match. Ie classic Mountney or Momo are the two main
size pcd’s.
They will work with and without the ford switchgear.
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MikeR
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| posted on 16/6/21 at 10:19 PM |
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Bit of a highjack but it's related.
Anyone have details on bosses that bolt on instead of weld?
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