givemethebighammer
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| posted on 8/3/03 at 06:18 PM |
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How to cut neat holes in aluminium ???
Got my nice cardboard template, got my nice aluminium sides ready to fit. Just a few questions
1. How do I cut nice neat circular holes in 1.2mm aluminium sheet ?? (Jigsaw was the only thing I could think of, however mine seems to badly scratch
the sheet where the saw "foot" contacts the metal ?)
2. How much bigger (diameter) does the hole have to be to fit the black push on edge strip I see everyone else using.
thanks
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Mark Allanson
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| posted on 8/3/03 at 07:07 PM |
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Use a jigsaw bt all means, just put gaffer tape on the foot first. I have used a die grinder, which is ideal, but use a former to stop you getting
caried away!
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chrisg
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| posted on 8/3/03 at 08:48 PM |
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For common circular hole sizes you could use a whitney punch, a two piece punch, one piece on each side of the sheet through a pilot hole and then
tighten up, these give superb results on thin ali.
Frost restoration sell them for example.
Cheers
Chris
Note to all: I really don't know when to leave well alone. I tried to get clever with the mods, then when they gave me a lifeline to see the
error of my ways, I tried to incite more trouble via u2u. So now I'm banned, never to return again. They should have done it years ago!
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stephen_gusterson
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| posted on 9/3/03 at 12:27 AM |
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what is the size and number of holes that you need?
If they are big - like 60mm - 80mm or above, you could use a hand nibbler. machine mart do em for about 7 quid.
If you need to do several holes of a specific size, it would be worth buying a circular hole saw and arbour. farnell do them as probably do your local
fixings supplier.
If you are doing just a couple holes - like i did when I had to mount my rear bumper - you might get away with cheapo wood circular hole saws, used
slowly with lots of lube. worked for me.
atb
steve
yes. my car has bumpers. nothing like adding complexity...
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Rorty
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| posted on 9/3/03 at 04:12 AM |
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If you can't afford a Whitney punch (excellent gadget with a fene too!), any good tool shop should have either Q-Max or Greenlee punches.
They're sold individually, and are available in round, square, rectangular, "D" shaped (for switches with a flat on the threaded barrel) and round
with a tang (for switches with a locating notch in the barrel). There's a huge range of sizes, and you only need two spanners to operate them.
Cheers, Rorty.
"Faster than a speeding Pullet".
PLEASE DON'T U2U ME IF YOU WANT A QUICK RESPONSE. TRY EMAILING ME INSTEAD!
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givemethebighammer
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| posted on 9/3/03 at 09:37 AM |
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We are talking about the holes for the suspension arms and the steering rack, so quite large. I think I will try the jigsaw with some gaffer tape on
the foot (I'll test a piece first).
How thick is the edging material so I can cut the holes slightly larger ?
thanks
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Jasper
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| posted on 9/3/03 at 06:01 PM |
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I used the jigsaw, (my ali is plastic coated so no problems), there seems to be enough clearance for the rubber edging to.
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geoff shep
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| posted on 9/3/03 at 07:01 PM |
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I've had the best results with a nibbler. I prefer the hand variety to the drill driven ones. They cut accurately and neatly especially if you cut
from the back side. I did gear lever and handbrake surrounds so fairly tight radii. Interestingly the one I have is my Dad's and dates from early
60s - they are available now but not as well made or packaged.
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eddymcclements
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| posted on 10/3/03 at 12:40 PM |
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I used a tank cutter (used for cutting holes in hot water tanks to fit immersion heaters etc). Held in a hand brace and turned slowly, the pointed
cutter makes light work of NS4 ally sheet. See http://www.whirl.demon.co.uk/locost/panelling2.jpg
for the results. The oval hole is just two round holes joined with the snips, and the other holes are similar. The cutter costs about a tenner from
any DIY shop, and best of all it's adjustable from 1" to 6" holes.
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