RobBrown
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| posted on 9/4/06 at 04:14 PM |
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M16 Caliper - Banjo bolt
I have come across the same issue, as many of you have, where the brake hose chaifs the cycle wing bracket. So going with a logical solution, decided
to go with Banjo fittings at the caliper end so that the pipe exits the area horizontally, instead of up near the bracketry.
However I don't seem to be able to get a seal on the bolt, and dont want to force the bolt too much as it feels like I could ruin the thread. I
have tried using the copper washers, but they don't help. I think it might be to do with that the bolts I have are 20mm, but these are a bit
longer than the caliper requires, so cut the bolt down.
Any suggestions?
Whilst staring at this situation for a couple of hours, it suddenly occured to me that the bleed pipe exits the caliper horizontally, so tried the
original fitting and found that it fitted OK, and sealed perfectly, first time.
Is there an issue with swapping the 2 connections over, so the bleed is where the feed was and the feed is where the bleed was (I will post a picture
if necessary).
Thanks
Rob
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 9/4/06 at 04:26 PM |
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When I fitted my banjo bolts I turned them down to length required . No reason why they couldn't have been cut with a hacksaw but turning down
was easier. Copper washers are a must and should be replaced every time banjo's are disconnected .
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RobBrown
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| posted on 9/4/06 at 04:34 PM |
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I did cut the bolt with a hacksaw, and noticed the washers had a slight buckle on them once removed.
How tight should tighten them. Should it be just hand tight? or should I try and force the seal?
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flak monkey
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| posted on 9/4/06 at 04:42 PM |
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The M16 caliper is not designed to have a banjo fitting attached to it. It is meant to have a proper compression fitting screwed into the caliper. You
will struggles to get a leak free seal using a banjo. Some have done it, but its more luck than jusdgement.
Look on the original cortina and escort and a short length of rigid brake pipe was attached to the caliper and supported on a bracket. The flexi is
then attached to the end of the solid pipe.
[Edited on 9/4/06 by flak monkey]
Sera
http://www.motosera.com
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RobBrown
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| posted on 9/4/06 at 05:01 PM |
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Any issue with swapping the two feeds around, as this gives a leak free seal?
Also, silly question but, does the copper washer go on the top or bottom of the banjo.
If I still fail to get a seal with the banjo in the conventional position then will look at short length of solid pipe solution. Has anyone done this
and have pictures?
thanks
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NS Dev
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| posted on 9/4/06 at 05:25 PM |
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you may have answered your own question there! You need a copper washer above and below the banjo to sandwich it.
You also need to make the washer seat on the caliper really smooth so it can seal properly.
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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the_fbi
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| posted on 9/4/06 at 06:46 PM |
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I've got exactly this routing issue on my Megablade. Took off a bracket at the weekend to route the hose outside of the bracket, but its still
close and touches on turning.
Although I think this can be "fixed" with some preloading/twisting of the hose. Although not ideal 
The bleed nipple holes are (should be) the higher ones on the caliper so that you can get more air out.
If you swap the feed/bleeds around you may need to remove the caliper and orientate it so the nipple is highest to get it well bled.
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owelly
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| posted on 9/4/06 at 08:31 PM |
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It may be that you are trying to make a seal on a surface that is not machined to be used as a sealing face. Try using thicker copper washers. If you
are reusing old ones, aneal them.
http://www.ppcmag.co.uk
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Cousin Cleotis
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| posted on 9/4/06 at 09:42 PM |
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all production cars with banjo type fittings have something to stop the bonjos from turning and undoing themselves if the are knocked, or something
pulls on the brake hose.
Paul
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