Front Row Joe
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| posted on 20/11/06 at 12:04 PM |
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Chassis Paint
I have decided to go with POR-15 for my chassis having read a number of threads on this forum. Can anyone advise how much metal ready / POR-15 will be
required to cover a low cost chassis (plus 4" ? It's damned expensive.
I'm a new builder by the way but will try and avoid some of those newbie type 'which donor ' questions etc. I have gone for a
+4" chassis based on plans from Darren at GTS Tuning with a 2.0 litre DOHC donor. I'm still at initial chassis building phase at the
moment.
Many Thanks.
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DavidM
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| posted on 20/11/06 at 12:48 PM |
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I used about 3/4 litre of cellulose for two coats when I sprayed mine, but given losses due to overspray I'd say 1/2 litre would be enough if
you are brushing it on.
David
Proportion is Everything
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Hellfire
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| posted on 20/11/06 at 12:50 PM |
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Welcome to the madhouse. I reckon most people on here would advise getting your chassis powder coated. Maybe a bit more expensive in the short term
but it'll save you loads of time and the hassle of painting it. You'll also get a tougher, more durable finish (if it's done
properly) than you would with paint.
If you've already considered this but still decided to go for painting, then good luck. 
Phil
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bilbo
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| posted on 20/11/06 at 01:13 PM |
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As my chassis takes shape, I've been thinking about this more and more. I agree with Hellfire that powder coating is the best way to go for
finish, durability etc. The only problem for me is that I know I'll end up finding a bracket or something I've forgotten to weld up after
the chassis been coated 
At least with paint, you can patch it up easier.
---------------------------------------
Build Diary: http://bills-locost.blogspot.com/
Web Site: http://locost.atspace.com
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fishywick
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| posted on 20/11/06 at 02:32 PM |
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Good powder coating can be very good, a poor job will flake off after a while.
As usual preperation seems to be the key.
I have used POR 15 before on a chassis and found it to be very good. It never flakes and seems very durable, it will turn yellowish if not overcoated
with something else. I would happily use it again.
As for your question, can't remember how much I used. Seem to think it was 750ml or a litre. Used it for lots of other brackets etc.
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Front Row Joe
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| posted on 20/11/06 at 04:24 PM |
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Thanks for the response. I had considered Powder coating but I know that I will end up having to weld other parts to the chassis and am concerned
about touching up. I also need to keep the budget down. Looks like I'll need the big pot of POR 15. £27 notes for paint, ouch. Is
Frost's the only place you can get this stuff?
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kb58
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| posted on 20/11/06 at 07:47 PM |
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It's not just the POR-15 itself, but also the metal degreaser, metal prep, and don't forget the topcoat.
Mid-engine Locost - http://www.midlana.com
And the book - http://www.lulu.com/shop/kurt-bilinski/midlana/paperback/product-21330662.html
Kimini - a tube-frame, carbon shell, Honda Prelude VTEC mid-engine Mini: http://www.kimini.com
And its book -
http://www.lulu.com/shop/kurt-bilinski/kimini-how-to-design-and-build-a-mid-engine-sports-car-from-scratch/paperback/product-4858803.html
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Avoneer
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| posted on 20/11/06 at 08:23 PM |
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Speaking from experience of POR-15, Cellulose and Powder Coat....
Shotblast and powdercoat wins hands down every time.
Trust me.
Pat...
No trees were killed in the sending of this message.
However a large number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced.
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andyd
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| posted on 21/11/06 at 07:45 AM |
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The best thing to do is to take a leaf from the likes of the American Chopper/Hotrod boys... build the whole thing so you know you won't have to
do anything more to the chassis before you send it off to paint and chrome (powder coat). 
I've been there with a lovely powder coated chassis and sworn loudly when other bits needed attaching. 
The other thing I found was that the roll bar got dulled and scratched with the build going on around it.
My next build will defo run and function before I get anything painted or powder coated.
I'll put a vote in for powder coat nevertheless, very nice when a good job has been done.
Andy
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robertst
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| posted on 23/11/06 at 11:14 AM |
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i'm using a similar product to hammerite... it looks like its working...
i used it also to paint my homemade hoist and it seems to hold on really good (its been outside, under the rain, cold, wind for 5 months now, and
there is no sign of flaking...
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 23/11/06 at 11:45 AM |
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POR-15 is good stuff - as long as you prepare the surface well.
First you have to degrease well; their Marine Clean is good stuff, but I'm sure that there's other stuff that'll do the job just as
well. Just remember that ANY paint will fall off grease!
Second, the surface has to be roughened; They sell Metal Prep for clean and shiny metal, which leaves a slightly abrasive surface that's perfect
for paint. Surface rust that's been wire-brushed is also perfect.
Finally, POR-15 requires a top coat, as it's affected by UV - not so that it degrades, just that the colour changes (e.g. silver turns into
mucky yellow-silver).
Sounds like a load of hassle, but it is good stuff.
It is worth remembering that some people get good results with Dulux gloss, which is both cheap and easy to use!
David
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Peteff
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| posted on 23/11/06 at 01:49 PM |
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B&Q enamel paint
Lots of colours and not expensive and if some comes off you slop some more on Their wood and metal undercoat is decent stuff as well and you
don't need special thinners, just white spirit.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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kb58
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| posted on 23/11/06 at 05:13 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by David Jenkins
POR-15 is good stuff - as long as you prepare the surface well.
First you have to degrease well; their Marine Clean is good stuff, but I'm sure that there's other stuff that'll do the job just as
well. Just remember that ANY paint will fall off grease!
Second, the surface has to be roughened; They sell Metal Prep for clean and shiny metal, which leaves a slightly abrasive surface that's perfect
for paint. Surface rust that's been wire-brushed is also perfect.
Finally, POR-15 requires a top coat, as it's affected by UV - not so that it degrades, just that the colour changes (e.g. silver turns into
mucky yellow-silver).
Sounds like a load of hassle, but it is good stuff.
David
If you use it, don't brush it on like I did. I tried it on a trailer axle, and while I'm sure it'll last forever, it, frankly, looks
like crap. Spraying it on will make it look much better, but spraying a three-dimensional tube frame chassis is amazingly difficult. Guaranteed
you'll miss one side of a couple tubes.
Mid-engine Locost - http://www.midlana.com
And the book - http://www.lulu.com/shop/kurt-bilinski/midlana/paperback/product-21330662.html
Kimini - a tube-frame, carbon shell, Honda Prelude VTEC mid-engine Mini: http://www.kimini.com
And its book -
http://www.lulu.com/shop/kurt-bilinski/kimini-how-to-design-and-build-a-mid-engine-sports-car-from-scratch/paperback/product-4858803.html
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