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Author: Subject: multi-way connector for removalbe dash.
02GF74

posted on 24/9/07 at 03:27 PM Reply With Quote
multi-way connector for removalbe dash.

this is the idea.

my dash will be attached to scuttle with lots of button heads to be easily removable from the front (steering wheel and column switches need to be removed first.)

I am thinking for putting two or three multi-way plugs between the instruments and the loom so that these are unplugged rather than having to remove the various wires from the instruments in order to move dash out of the car. it will be easier to work on reverse side of the dash when it is out of the car.

any reason why this is a bad idea?

access to the instruments/lamps/switches could be gotten by removing the scuttle so maybe not so great an idea.?

just thinking aloud.

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Moorron

posted on 24/9/07 at 03:36 PM Reply With Quote
This is what i did when i redone my dash, means its quicker to diagnose problems as you can use a multimeter at one single point.

just make a note of what pins do what





Sorry about my spelling, im an engineer and only work in numbers.

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BenB

posted on 24/9/07 at 03:38 PM Reply With Quote
That's what I've done. Works really well. My dash has 10 captive bolts in it that protrude through into the scuttle and are held in place with 10 wing nuts.

Undo the wing nuts, disconnect the two multiway connectors, job done.

Takes a couple of minutes...

Definitely worth doing IMHO.

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shortie

posted on 24/9/07 at 03:40 PM Reply With Quote
Me too, good idea.

Make sure your connectors are correctly rated for what you are using them for though.

Rich.

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gingerprince

posted on 24/9/07 at 03:41 PM Reply With Quote
I used these: -

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=997&criteria =multiway&doy=24m9

Of course only for low current applications - no good for your starter button

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02GF74

posted on 24/9/07 at 03:45 PM Reply With Quote
so no votes against - soundsl ike a plan.

I was thinking about D-type connector *; need to check current rating but it is mostly for LED lamps and low current for instruments.

It would be good if the connector could be mounted on the rear of the dash so the plug can be disconnect using 1 hand.

* a quick search shows these are rated at 7.5 A per contact seems rather a lot.

[Edited on 24/9/07 by 02GF74]

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worX

posted on 24/9/07 at 03:52 PM Reply With Quote
I used two (my clocks are the Blade ones so they are also seperated from the loom with two of their own) One rated for wiring etc and then one with a higher rating for the ignition etc.

I bought them all from here - POLEVOLT

cheers,
Steve

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RoadkillUK

posted on 24/9/07 at 05:59 PM Reply With Quote
I used a 24 pin connector from a PC PSU (actually it was 2 converters, 24-20 and 20-24 pin)

I only used them as I had them lying about, but I reckon they are about perfect (if you don't mind a bit of soldering)








Roadkill - Lee
www.bradford7.co.uk
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Peteff

posted on 24/9/07 at 06:35 PM Reply With Quote
I made mine so the dash is in place when the scuttle is removed. The only thing I need to disconnect is the speedo cable.
Dash in place with scuttle removed.
Dash in place with scuttle removed.


[Edited on 24/9/07 by Peteff]





yours, Pete

I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.

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MikeRJ

posted on 24/9/07 at 07:58 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by 02GF74
* a quick search shows these are rated at 7.5 A per contact seems rather a lot.

[Edited on 24/9/07 by 02GF74]


That seems very high though they do vary between manufacturers. Most seem to be around 3 to 5 Amps per pin.

Only problem with them is the solder buckets are generaly a but too small for most automotive cable.

You can always use more than one, or a 37 way and double up on pins for more current.

[Edited on 24/9/07 by MikeRJ]

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caber

posted on 24/9/07 at 08:53 PM Reply With Quote
I used a couple of standard 6 way connectors to do this. it really is a great help in working on the dash and the wiring behind it. This is a really simple thing to do and very well worth it.

Caber

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grusks2

posted on 24/9/07 at 10:01 PM Reply With Quote
I used 3 x 8way multi plugs ( 1 for warning lights - 1 for gauges - 1 for switches ) Rescued attachment CIMG04881.JPG
Rescued attachment CIMG04881.JPG






http://mac1worxbuild.wordpress.com/








forgot my old password so another username doh

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02GF74

posted on 25/9/07 at 09:42 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by MikeRJ

Only problem with them is the solder buckets are generaly a but too small for most automotive cable.




yeah, that may be a problem.

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thomas4age

posted on 27/9/07 at 03:24 PM Reply With Quote
if you need that thick cable to you dash you're not using enough relais.

dash wiring should not be neccisarily thicker than .75mmsq which can fit in almost any D-type I know, D types are just so doggy, I've used Socapex connectors but those are very expensive

for higher power apllications like charge lights that are the field wire to the alternator (denso's) you could use neutrik XLR microphone plugs those hold 20amp easilly

grtz Thomas





If Lucas made guns, Wars wouldn't start either.

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02GF74

posted on 27/9/07 at 03:32 PM Reply With Quote
well not really; I didn't wire it up originally and it looks like a car loom was used which has thick wires.

there is not need for relays since it is just instruments that I am wiring up.

I will be using a pair of ATX 20 way connectors since these are physically bigger then D-type plus if I am right, they have push in type crimp contacts so will be easier to make up the connectors.

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