Simon
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| posted on 24/6/02 at 08:58 PM |
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Sierra Spring Rate
Hi All,
Cos I'm being really tight, I intend to use Sierra IRS etc including donor's rear springs, and maybe, uprated shocks . Does anyone know what the
spring rate is, and how they compare with the 180lb, 220lb etc mentioned in the book. I will probably being using coilovers for the front.
Donor is normal!! 1.8 CVH
Thanks
Simon
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stephen_gusterson
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| posted on 24/6/02 at 09:58 PM |
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quote:
Hi All,
Cos I'm being really tight, I intend to use Sierra IRS etc including donor's rear springs, and maybe, uprated shocks . Does anyone know what the
spring rate is, and how they compare with the 180lb, 220lb etc mentioned in the book. I will probably being using coilovers for the front.
Donor is normal!! 1.8 CVH
Thanks
Simon
hi
if you havnt realised yet, the sierra rear end is used by the robinhood 2b.
there is a robin hood 2b list on yahoo .... i think its
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/robinhood2b
try asking those guys what they do for springs and shocks.
Dont know how far you are into your build, but donmt even start your chassis until you see what the rear looks like of the sierra!
I was gonna use it, but already built my chassis. you will find that the rubber mounting donuts are tall and hard to mount. It will push your car way
up from the ground unless you 'let' the mounts into recesses in the floor. If you can find a pic of the 2b chasis, or see one at a show, you will
see that the rear corners behind the seats, outboard sides, have large recesses to allow the subframe to mount.
If you can use the sierra rear end, you will get a big start. However, its probably no better than a much easier to mount live rear axle from summat
like a dolomite or capri. Also, i wonder if anyone has ever used the live axle from a p100 sierra pickup - there are some in scrappies.
atb
steve
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Simon
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| posted on 24/6/02 at 11:07 PM |
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Steve,
How far I am into my build is this:
I have already dismantled my donor (3 months ago!!). All that was left was a shell with glass - so I know just what makes up the Sierra IRS. I spent
most of today dimantling, degreasing and blasting the subframe and trailing arms. Engine, driveshafts etc, steering rack etc next.
Trying to get as much preparation done as possible.
Also today, ordered (from Luego): front wishbones, bushes, nuts/bolts, suspension brackets etc etc. Steel tube to be ordered this week.
Already prepared/painted diff and gearbox. Nice ally paint. Looks alright for something that will be out of sight.
I've downloaded some plans for the Sierra IRS complete rear end. No idea where I got it, but it looks like it will be ok. Will change certain
aspects!
By ordering all the front end and using Sierra IRS I'm hoping to make some time savings. I have two weeks off in July and, while it might seem
optimistic, I have to have a rolling chassis, with brake/fuel lines, steering etc, and side/rear panels done.
Seem to have gone on a bit here, so I'm off to look at the 2b thing you suggested.
Thanks and ATB
Simon
PS Anyone who considers themselves a competent welder like to let me know how long I can expect to take to make the chassis. I'm hoping 2
days!?!?!?!(I'm sure RC suggests that in his book). Am I being optimistic. I reckon approx 40 pieces of SHS/tube to be cut at 10 mins per piece (cut
check length/squareness and tack) 400 mins being 6.66 hours. That's day one. Day two - weld up. Look forward to your comments. Hehe
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stephen_gusterson
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| posted on 25/6/02 at 06:20 PM |
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for me, welding up the chassis was the most enjoyable bit but it was done over a few weekends.
I dont think 2 days is way out, but i wouls allow 2 - 4 days.
also, i wouldnt cut the bits at once. not only is it drossly boring, you will fiond that some parts are the wrong sizes in the book, and that a lot of
the angles can be taken from the car rather than friggin around measuring them all.
use a good argon mix as the co2 only i used needs more care to get a good result.
also, dont weld the bottom tubes in one go. if you do you will get the chassis banana from one end to other by about 20mm. this is no big thing, but
best avoided. so turn the chassis regularly when you final weld or get a curvy result.
if you fully weld the steel floor, also do this intermittently at various places before filling all the weld gaps or you will get a slightly buckled
floor. again, no biggie, but best avoided.
Guess how I found out.....!!!
atb
steve
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Simon
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| posted on 25/6/02 at 10:51 PM |
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Steve
Thanks for your comments.
You picked up on something I was going to ask about - fully welding the floor. I had thought about it - what did others do?
I've gathered from reading this site that cutting all tubes might present a problem or two.
I'm planning to mark out my board per book, cross check (Pythagoras - Grade Z CSE - so my limit) all dimensions, and cut matching pairs. Except for
"h" of which there's six. I think:-)
As for the gas - I have access to a couple of Tigs welders - one of which is AC/DC, so I can weld ally. This will need a bit of practice before I do
anything for the car though.
I had a look at a 2B builders site. They were using the complete Sierra IRS. Weird. For suspension, take Sierra's Mcpherson struts, hack around a
bit, invert (turn upside down) and mount inside rollover bar. Pin at right insertion to give correct ride height. That's the way I read it. Anyone
know different, feel free to correct me!
Thanks and ATB
Simon
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