Bob C
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posted on 28/5/07 at 10:56 PM |
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I sincerely do hope it becomes commercially available - I want one!
BTW, if you "alter the body" on a car, any testing required (like SVA again??) I would have thought not, anyone know for sure?
Fingers crossed
Bob
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JamJah
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posted on 29/5/07 at 06:50 AM |
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You don't need a SVA for a bodywork kit! Think Chavs in Vauxhall Novas.
However if someone was building normal kit stylee they would need one, but thats nothing shockingly new or suprising.
Yes radii and light positions would have to be checked that they conformed during development of a full sized version (as would everything else in the
SVA Manual) otherwise people would have to rip it to shreds to make it road legal, but I think that would have been expected as part of the design
process Bob.
[Edited on 29/505/0707 by JamJah]
[Edited on 29/505/0707 by JamJah]
This is personal advise or personal opinion.
Constructive comments gratefully recieved, picking is left for noses.
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Gaz 1977
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posted on 29/5/07 at 08:50 AM |
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epona
The plan at the moment is to buy the chassis and get it rolling as soon as is possible, I think that i will go zetec with throttle bodies, i hope this
should be an easy ish installation and then start on the body.
As i will be building the first one i will have to get it through SVA so subsequent shells should not be any problem to pass. I am sure that i will
have missed something regarding SVA during the model process but i cant See it being too far off.
On the bright side, i presume that if you build a full bodied car you don't have to mess about covering nuts and bolts on the wishbones etc.
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David Jenkins
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posted on 29/5/07 at 11:45 AM |
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Yep - the only real concern is external radii, and whether the tyres/wheels are covered by the bodywork.
My only concern with going the MK route would be whether the body could still be fitted to a 'book' chassis. It would be a shame to tie
yourself up with just one chassis, however popular.
Bets of luck with the venture, though!
David
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JamJah
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posted on 29/5/07 at 12:13 PM |
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Was it MK who sold paper plans of their kits? Or was that GTS...? or someone else....? someone has. I'm sure someone will pipe up with who!
This is personal advise or personal opinion.
Constructive comments gratefully recieved, picking is left for noses.
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AdamR
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posted on 29/5/07 at 05:18 PM |
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Continuing to love this project! Big respect Gaz.
For chassis options, I think you need to decide on the track width and wheelbase and keep the bodywork mounts separate from the body itself so that
people can fab their own to fit whatever they have. Assuming you go Sierra track - which seems to be most common these days - the body should fit MK,
MNR, GTS, +4 Locosts, wide-bodied Westies etc with little modification.
The wider your market, the more you'll sell!
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AdamR
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posted on 29/5/07 at 05:18 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by JamJah
Was it MK who sold paper plans of their kits? Or was that GTS...? or someone else....? someone has. I'm sure someone will pipe up with who!
GTS
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Gaz 1977
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posted on 30/5/07 at 09:04 AM |
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EPONA BODY
I will be going sierra track because that seem to be the way they are all going, with the added bonus that i could make the glass area a bit wider and
not have to cut a screen down.
Track can be adjusted to an extent by using different wheels/spacers etc.
I need to find out if the wheel base is the same on the different models as i think this could be the biggest problem as far as fitting the shell to
different cars.
I had a thought yesterday (dangerous) that it might be possible to use the original rear wings as inner arches.
The thing is i have to build the epona on an existing chassis so it makes sense to use a popular one (MK).
I hope that, as the body drops over the top of the chassis, there should be a little room to spare and with a small amount of modification it should
fit most things. just need to try it.
thanks chaps.
any thoughts give me a shout.
GAZ
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DIY Si
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posted on 30/5/07 at 09:33 AM |
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How does the MK chassis compare in term sof size with the other major manufacturers? Ideally, you'd want to go for the largest chassis you can,
that way all the smaller ones will fit happily under the shell. Which dimension are the most different? IE height, width length, as this may
alter/affect some of the mounting points. EG, if they are nearly all the same width, then that could tie one dimension in place, making there less to
mess about with.
“Let your plans be dark and as impenetratable as night, and when you move, fall like a thunderbolt.”
Sun Tzu, The Art of War
My new blog: http://spritecave.blogspot.co.uk/
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scotmac
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posted on 30/5/07 at 04:41 PM |
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Read the whole thread, and can only say congrats, and please add me to the production body "waitlist". How much is the deposit?
One question (may be answered in the other thread), how does the exhaust route? Are you planning for some type of "flat" style tubes to go
underneath? I actually would prefer out the side...is it possible, w/ the design?
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DIY Si
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posted on 30/5/07 at 07:48 PM |
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IIRC the exhausts are one bit that require final planning. When I meet him and his old man at Stoneleigh, there were still a few possible options. One
was running it down the sills and then up and over the rear suspension, and then split at the back. There were other ideas, but I can't remeber
what they are!
“Let your plans be dark and as impenetratable as night, and when you move, fall like a thunderbolt.”
Sun Tzu, The Art of War
My new blog: http://spritecave.blogspot.co.uk/
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907
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posted on 30/5/07 at 08:06 PM |
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Less of the "old " Si.
For your information, Epona will require a very complicated handcrafted system,
that will cost oodles of dosh, most of which will end up in my wallet.
Paul G
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DIY Si
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posted on 30/5/07 at 09:53 PM |
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I call everyone's Dad Old Man, so don't take it to heart! And besides, you aren't that young! You're son's got 10
years on me as it is!
“Let your plans be dark and as impenetratable as night, and when you move, fall like a thunderbolt.”
Sun Tzu, The Art of War
My new blog: http://spritecave.blogspot.co.uk/
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907
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posted on 30/5/07 at 11:40 PM |
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I was a child bride.
Paul G
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Gaz 1977
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posted on 31/5/07 at 08:50 AM |
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quote: Originally posted by scotmac
Read the whole thread, and can only say congrats, and please add me to the production body "waitlist". How much is the deposit?
One question (may be answered in the other thread), how does the exhaust route? Are you planning for some type of "flat" style tubes to go
underneath? I actually would prefer out the side...is it possible, w/ the design?
thanks mate, As far as exhausts, i havent really made my mind up, out the side would be alot easier, there will be plenty of room between the chassis
and the shell to hide a pipe, i need to be a bit carefull with the heat though.
as for 907, he doesnt look 65, but he must have done once.
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Gaz 1977
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posted on 11/6/07 at 01:55 PM |
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transportation design show
If anyone is interested and fancies a laugh,
The Northumbria University Transportation Design Degree Show starts tomorow night from 6pm.
In Newcastle (it might be an idea to mention that)
There are twenty odd displays to look at and i am sure we will be going for a few beers afterwards.
I am going to look at a doner car tonight for the epona, so fingers crossed..
u2u me if anyone wants a look at the show.
Thanks
GAZ
Rescued attachment SHOW BDS.jpg
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DIY Si
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posted on 11/6/07 at 06:12 PM |
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I'll have the one in red from the top right please!!!
“Let your plans be dark and as impenetratable as night, and when you move, fall like a thunderbolt.”
Sun Tzu, The Art of War
My new blog: http://spritecave.blogspot.co.uk/
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gottabedone
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posted on 11/6/07 at 07:40 PM |
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Hey Gaz,
Still looking good!
If you use the widest chassis that you can, then you can get some tasty seats in there. The car gets quite narrow at window/waist height so this
might not leave much elbow/shoulder room if the car is scaled for a smaller chassis.
regards
Steve
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gttman
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posted on 12/6/07 at 07:36 AM |
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quote: Originally posted by Gaz 1977
I will be going sierra track because that seem to be the way they are all going, with the added bonus that i could make the glass area a bit wider and
not have to cut a screen down.
Track can be adjusted to an extent by using different wheels/spacers etc.
I need to find out if the wheel base is the same on the different models as i think this could be the biggest problem as far as fitting the shell to
different cars.
I had a thought yesterday (dangerous) that it might be possible to use the original rear wings as inner arches.
The thing is i have to build the epona on an existing chassis so it makes sense to use a popular one (MK).
I hope that, as the body drops over the top of the chassis, there should be a little room to spare and with a small amount of modification it should
fit most things. just need to try it.
thanks chaps.
any thoughts give me a shout.
GAZ
Gaz
I have an MK Indy and am just down the road from 907 if you want to measure stuff up etc.
[Edited on 12/6/07 by gttman]
Andygtt
Please redefine your limits
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Gaz 1977
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posted on 12/6/07 at 08:16 AM |
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Thanks andy, that could well be useful,
I think i might do a quick mk2 model with the adjustments for the wider chassis, I have the molds for the original model so it wont take too long.
There are a few bits and bobs that i am not too happy with that need sorting before the full size one can be built.
as for elbow room, i hope it will be ok, all of the body is wider then a normal seven, i thinks its going to be one of those suck it and see
things.
Thanks chaps,
GAZ
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Bob C
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posted on 12/6/07 at 09:46 AM |
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Better do a poll Gaz - I'll be wanting book standard chassis & 60" outside wheel to outside wheel...... ;^)
Go for the standard chassis & you have a big retrofit market as well as a large proportion of new builds - Go for the new MK chassis & the
market is much more limited.
Or maybe you can make it fit anything?????
Bob
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Fred W B
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posted on 12/6/07 at 11:15 AM |
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If the hope is to sell shell for retrofits to existing cars, a very usefull measurment to record, if any one is measuring their cars, is Width Over
Wheels (WOW), overall width from the outside of LHS wheel to outside of RHS wheel, front and rear.
This can then be compared with the outside width of the body, to see if the wheels will sit in the arches nicely, without changing wheel offsets
dramaticallly
Cheers
Fred W B
[Edited on 12/6/07 by Fred W B]
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Bob C
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posted on 12/6/07 at 11:40 AM |
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Aha - Width over wheels (WOW)
I knew there'd be a proper name for it!
And we'll do it in metric yeah?
It's clearly a tricky one - everyone will have a different combination of axle/wheels/pacers etc. and there's probably 50mm or so
acceptable range, maybe even less
Bob
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Fred W B
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posted on 12/6/07 at 01:19 PM |
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quote:
Aha - Width over wheels (WOW)
I don't know about a it being a proper term, I just made it up. I found it much easier to work with than having to add wheel widths to a track
measurement all the time. Some sources seem to quote WOW as track though.
If any one is confused, Track is measured to the wheel/tread centre lines (nothing to do with offset)
Cheers
Fred W B
[Edited on 12/6/07 by Fred W B]
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Bob C
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posted on 13/6/07 at 09:21 PM |
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OK width over wheels for mine is 1540mm rear, a touch less at the front
Bob
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