clairetoo
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| posted on 26/10/12 at 06:38 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by ashg
Not having much luck at the moment are you.
Thats putting it mildly.......if I didnt have bad luck , I wouldnt have any luck at all 
Its cuz I is blond , innit
Claire xx
Will weld for food......
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clairetoo
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| posted on 26/10/12 at 06:41 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by MikeRJ
An air leak on the inlet manifold/throttle body is a possibility. That would account for both the flame spitting activities and not running at idle,
as well as not affecting a leak down test.
[Edited on 25/10/12 by MikeRJ]
I thought that - but removing and sealing the bodies made no difference , I even swapped the whole setup and nothing changed
Its cuz I is blond , innit
Claire xx
Will weld for food......
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BaileyPerformance
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| posted on 26/10/12 at 08:50 AM |
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Hi Claire,
Please list the compression of each cylinder.
I would guess all cylinders should be at least 150PSI? (check each cylinder with the throttle open, unplug megasquirt)
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 26/10/12 at 08:55 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by clairetoo
quote:
Originally posted by MikeRJ
An air leak on the inlet manifold/throttle body is a possibility. That would account for both the flame spitting activities and not running at idle,
as well as not affecting a leak down test.
[Edited on 25/10/12 by MikeRJ]
I thought that - but removing and sealing the bodies made no difference , I even swapped the whole setup and nothing changed
You are running individual throttle bodies on this right? Are you certain the butterfly on this cylinder is well synchronised and sealing correctly -
if it was too far open compared to the others the same symptoms would be seen. A vacuum measurement downstream of the butterfly with the engine
running would rule this out (if not already done).
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clairetoo
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| posted on 26/10/12 at 08:55 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by BaileyPerformance
Hi Claire,
Please list the compression of each cylinder.
I would guess all cylinders should be at least 150PSI? (check each cylinder with the throttle open, unplug megasquirt)
I'd love to do that - but I dont have a compression tester
Its cuz I is blond , innit
Claire xx
Will weld for food......
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BaileyPerformance
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| posted on 26/10/12 at 09:00 AM |
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Me again!
Ment to ask what do you mean by leak down test? we have a snap-on device that applies air pressure to a cylinder (from a workshop compressor) and its
supposed to identify poor sealing valves and rings - the thing is next to useless! (this device is labeled "leak tester"
We always found a basic compression test to be more useful at identifying engine problems, an old trick is to squirt some engine oil down the
offending cylinder and re-test - if the compression comes back up you know is the bottom end, if not its the top end.
You said your other car has an engine problem? What caused that?
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BaileyPerformance
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| posted on 26/10/12 at 09:06 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by clairetoo
quote:
Originally posted by BaileyPerformance
Hi Claire,
Please list the compression of each cylinder.
I would guess all cylinders should be at least 150PSI? (check each cylinder with the throttle open, unplug megasquirt)
I'd love to do that - but I dont have a compression tester
Oh!
You need to buy one! ebay!!
We see loads of poor running customers cars here - normally the owner has replaced everything assuming its engine electronics but never do the basic
checks! For example we had an Escort Zetec in awhile ago, the thing ran rough and would not idle what cold, so the owner replaced the idle valve (£50
from Ford!!!!) No effect.
I did a compression test... one cylinder had 70PSI on it, rest over 150. Engine scrap. Always check the basics first.
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BaileyPerformance
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| posted on 26/10/12 at 09:12 AM |
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This is what you need....
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PETROL-ENGINE-CYLINDER-AUTOMOTIVE-COMPRESSION-DUAL-TESTER-TOOL-KIT-/300723181279?pt=UK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=i
tem46047f96df
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clairetoo
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| posted on 26/10/12 at 09:28 AM |
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A leak down will tell you far more than a basic compression test - you can have acceptable compression with poorly sealing valves .
The leak test tells you straight away where the problem is - leaking valves can be heard through the throttle body , exhaust valves can be heard at
the tail pipe......and dead rings will blow out the oil filler .
Its cuz I is blond , innit
Claire xx
Will weld for food......
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clairetoo
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| posted on 26/10/12 at 09:33 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by BaileyPerformance
You said your other car has an engine problem? What caused that?
Too much abuse It was getting a bit smokey , then a lot smokey........and the final straw was last time I went to start it (just to move it on the
drive) the cambelt snapped !
I do have several spare engines , so if its a major mechanical issue I can just chuck another one in 
Its cuz I is blond , innit
Claire xx
Will weld for food......
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BaileyPerformance
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| posted on 26/10/12 at 09:38 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by clairetoo
A leak down will tell you far more than a basic compression test - you can have acceptable compression with poorly sealing valves .
The leak test tells you straight away where the problem is - leaking valves can be heard through the throttle body , exhaust valves can be heard at
the tail pipe......and dead rings will blow out the oil filler .
If you had "acceptable compression" it would be running on all cylinders as you have replaced/swapped everything else.
Leak down test is a waste of time in your case, all you need to do is perform a basic compression test, trust me, buy a basic compression tester then
you can prove if the engine is OK or not.
What happened to your other engine? Why did that die?
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BaileyPerformance
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| posted on 26/10/12 at 09:41 AM |
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Sorry,
Just learnt to read!
You said your other engine started to smoke.... And cambelt failed.
The engine with the miss, have you had it on the road?
What AFRs to you aim for cruse and full throttle?
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clairetoo
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| posted on 26/10/12 at 09:49 AM |
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This is the engine in my Mx5 - I got it through the MOT , but thats all its done so far.........
I run about 15/15.5 at cruise - and aim for 13.5 on full noise (but not too bothered about full throttle , its not often used ) Thats in the Fury -
its already too damn fast , and easily capable of over 150 mph 
Its cuz I is blond , innit
Claire xx
Will weld for food......
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BaileyPerformance
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| posted on 26/10/12 at 10:18 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by clairetoo
This is the engine in my Mx5 - I got it through the MOT , but thats all its done so far.........
I run about 15/15.5 at cruise - and aim for 13.5 on full noise (but not too bothered about full throttle , its not often used ) Thats in the Fury -
its already too damn fast , and easily capable of over 150 mph
That may explain why its dead, never go any leaner than 12.5AFR full throttle, going lean at cruise is OK but if your overall AFR is 15, you could
have a cylinder at 16 due to unequal airflow (you can never get throttles 100% balanced)
For example a totally stock 1600/1800 MX5 (i know you have changed the engine, but the same applies) runs 12.0AFR full throttle and 14.7AFR cruise.
These engines are strong, i have never heard of one blowing up, running alittle richer at full throttle makes engines live longer if you plan to
thrash it. If the manufacturer decided to map them rich it was for good reason.
They also run a slightly retarded (from idea) total timing, again this is to make it live longer if you thrash it. I cant remember the exact number
but 32deg would be enough for max power, 36deg cruise.
The only way i would run 13.5AFR full throttle was if i had knock detection, your engine may have suffered det but you wouldn't be able to hear
it in a car of that type.
Normally if an engine has not been modified, is set up correctly and kept cool you can hold it full throttle red line for as long as you like without
damaging it. ( i know you said you dont use full throttle very often, but det will damage and engine in seconds)
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clairetoo
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| posted on 26/10/12 at 12:09 PM |
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I'm just going to the bottom of the garden ............ to swear A LOT (and maybe even shoot myself.....)
I had tries swapping the plug leads around at the coil - after all , if one side of a paired coil works , the other will as well ? It had no effect
.
So today . I took the coil off my Fury ............ and now it runs properly  Just been for a spin around the block , and its proper
......................... at last
Thanks to all for the suggestions - at least I can say for sure now that everything is good , so time for a bit of mapping
Its cuz I is blond , innit
Claire xx
Will weld for food......
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Nickp
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| posted on 26/10/12 at 12:12 PM |
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HURRAH!!
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rb968
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| posted on 26/10/12 at 12:19 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by rb968
Weird one Claire. Spark and wet plug?
Have you got a spare coilpack to try? In case its broken down on that one lead?
Sorry only thing I can think of on top of what you have tried.
Rich
Cough, cough........
Can I claim credit then?
Glad you got it sorted.
Rich
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clairetoo
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| posted on 26/10/12 at 12:22 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by rb968
quote:
Originally posted by rb968
Weird one Claire. Spark and wet plug?
Have you got a spare coilpack to try? In case its broken down on that one lead?
Sorry only thing I can think of on top of what you have tried.
Rich
Cough, cough........
Can I claim credit then?
Glad you got it sorted.
Rich
yep - you are now allowed to be smug for the rest of the day
Thing is - each section of the coil runs two cylinders - and only one wouldnt fire (at all) , I had swapped the two leads over , to no effect , so I
had almost ruled out the coil
Its cuz I is blond , innit
Claire xx
Will weld for food......
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