rodgling
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| posted on 17/11/12 at 10:00 PM |
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Will the Sierra diff take the torque though?
[Edited on 17/11/12 by rodgling]
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sg_frost
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| posted on 17/11/12 at 10:02 PM |
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Should do, the welded prop or tyres should give up first I would have thought.
Plus I used to have a 2.9 XR4x4i that was cammed and that one got thrashed and lived 
[Edited on 17/11/12 by sg_frost]
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Nickp
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| posted on 18/11/12 at 12:00 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by franky
with the mods you've mentioned you're looking at 220bhp tops
Having an m3 lump nets you 2000rpm and 100bhp more.
Only 220bhp?? How will we manage? 
That extra 100bhp might get a bit scary 
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Simon
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| posted on 18/11/12 at 12:39 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by rodgling
Will the Sierra diff take the torque though?
[Edited on 17/11/12 by rodgling]
Easy, ran a 3.9 R V8 though mine.
ATB
Simon
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Nickp
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| posted on 18/11/12 at 08:00 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by sg_frost
Just read that link. I have completely removed that lower tunnel bar, not really needed. Both sides of the engine are triangulated, the one you cut
out. The top tunnel cross bar has stayed, but the tunnel is slightly wider. But.... the engine sita a lot lower than yours. I have the bottom of the
bell housing 3-4 inches off the floor with a completely newly fabricated sump. Front crank pulley sits behind front cross member. More photos to
follow.
That's interesting. I thought I'd got it as low as possible, but I guess your sump must be a fair bit shallower? Did you modify the
pick-up then? I've just cut a right angled chunk out of my sump to clear the passenger side bottom engine bay rail. I could've cut the
bottom rail out completely as per the book (and may still) but I figured every bit of extra strength / rigidity would help with the big 6 pot in
there. It doesn't affect the position my engine will sit in but does make it awkward to get it in and out although it could be handy to mount
the sump guard to.
I'll be very interested in your 'doddle' electrics as it's something I haven't given much thought to, too scared!! 
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sg_frost
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| posted on 18/11/12 at 08:56 AM |
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Sump is now level with bottom of gearbox, 3 wires it took to get it running in that video.
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Nickp
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| posted on 18/11/12 at 10:40 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by sg_frost
3 wires it took to get it running in that video.
Cool, got any details?
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sg_frost
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| posted on 18/11/12 at 05:58 PM |
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Depends if yours has ews or not
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Nickp
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| posted on 18/11/12 at 07:58 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by sg_frost
Depends if yours has ews or not
It does and I have the module and key. I suppose that complicates matters doe it?
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sg_frost
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| posted on 18/11/12 at 08:01 PM |
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Not much, think there is only 5 wires in them too. Let me know what year it is and I will have a look for the wiring diagram.
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Nickp
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| posted on 18/11/12 at 08:10 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by sg_frost
Not much, think there is only 5 wires in them too. Let me know what year it is and I will have a look for the wiring diagram.
I think it came out of a '96 323i. Can probably find out for definate if it's year specific.
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SteveWallace
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| posted on 18/11/12 at 08:47 PM |
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Mine has EWS as well. I have a pdf document with a comprehensive wiring diagram. Unfortunately I cannot remember where I downloaded it from, but if
anyone wants me to send them a copy on e-mail, just U2U me with your address. I'm running all of my engine management wires through the big
circular BMW connector on the engine loom (X20 in BMW wiring diagrams, I think)
My concern is not so much getting the engine to start, but to make sure that it does not just default to limp home mode. I understand that there are
a number of sensors that the ECU is expecting a signal from, such as the ABS speed sensor, and that without these engine output will be limited. I
think that I can get round this on mine as my front sierra hubs had ABS sensors on the donor, so I plan to try to fit a BMW abs sensor from the
scrappy to one of these.
The other issue is where to pick up the rev counter signal from as BMW engine have coil packs on each spark plug...
... still, figuring this out is all part of the fun.
Forgot to mention, my engine is out of a '97 donor
[Edited on 18/11/12 by SteveWallace]
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sg_frost
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| posted on 18/11/12 at 10:09 PM |
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Does not need abs signal, the abs controller is separate so no worries there. As for rev counter, the is a wire in that x 20 it for rev counter from
the Ecu. Everything you need is in that x20. Black and yellow is ignition feed, big light green is crank, green and violet is feed to fuel pump. Earth
the pump, the engine and the Ecu and it fires. Ews has other wires, two go to engine Ecu, one is crank feed, one is to starter and the other is maybe
an earth, has been about 3 years since I played with ews so I may be confused.
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SteveWallace
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| posted on 19/11/12 at 02:19 PM |
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Thanks for the advice. You don't happen to know what the rev counter signal that goes through the X20 is by any chance? I don't think its
as simple as a pulse every time that a selected cylinder fires
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sg_frost
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| posted on 19/11/12 at 02:39 PM |
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It could be that simple actually as the clocks are not interchangable between a 4 pot motor and a six pot motor. Not got as far as ordering gauges
yet.
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SteveWallace
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| posted on 19/11/12 at 02:48 PM |
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I spoke to someone from ETB gauges a couple of months ago and they were testing some gauges that they say will work on BMW electrics (I guess that
they can see the donor market going that way). I'm going to give them a call soon, so I'll do an update on here when I have more
information
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SCAR
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| posted on 19/11/12 at 02:48 PM |
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A great project, if we ever finish our build it would be nice to make our own chassis next time.
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sg_frost
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| posted on 19/11/12 at 02:57 PM |
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Just something I found on the tinterweb so I take no responsibilty for it accuracy, but it worked for me.
I've been going through a few E36 etms, gathering up data on the X20 plug.
The X20 is the large connector between the engine loom and the car loom, which will usually be next to the fuse box
This list I guess is a work in progress, and It is probably better regarding it as a guide, but it should help speed things up.
X20
1 - GE CAN HIGH DME>ABS/ASC/EGS
2 - BR CAN LOW DME>ABS/ASC/EGS
3 - GR/VI DME>EXHAUST FLAP MS41 (SW/GN TEMP SWITCH>INST M1.7.3/M5.2)
4 - SW/BL DME>A/C RELAY MS41/MSS50/M50
5 - SW/GR SW/BR(SW/GR M50) DME<AC PRESS SWITCH (GN/VI>AUX FAN MS41)
6 - VI/GR DME>CLIMATE ON SIGNAL
7 - GN DME<EWS SIGNAL(RT/WS<GN M51 SW/VI<GN 4CYL) (SW/VI DME<OBC M50)
8 - RT/WT DME RELAY (SW/GR DME>AUX FAN RELAY M5.2) (GR CHECK ENGINE M50)
9 - BR/RT-WS/GR/GE (WS/GN) ABS SIGNAL DME-ABS / OIL TEMP>INST M3
10 - BL/GE REVERSE LIGHT>
11 - BR/GE ECTEMP>INST
12 - BR/VI ECTEMP>INST
13 - GN/VI EKP RELAY>EKP
14 - SW/WS DME<SPEEDO OUTPUT (M1.7.3 MSS50 M41)
15 - SW/GN T30H STARTING>OBC/ZKE
16 - WS/GE RXD DIAG
17 - WS/VI TXD DIAG
18 - SW/GE T50 STARTER<IGNITION/EWS MSS50
19 - WS/GN SERVICE>INST
20 - SW TD ENGINE SPEED>ALL
21 - GN POWER T15> IGNITION SWITCH
22 - GN/WS T15S RUN/START
23 - BR/GN OIL PRESSURE WARNING LIGHT>INST
24 - WS/SW TI DME>INST
25 - SW (M3 318TDS (BL M50) ALTERNATOR>INST
There are 25 pins in total, I've been sticking to a bit of a key, treating it as Engine Loom>Car Loom.
The key is-
Pin Number -
Wire colour - engine loom side (German, main / stripe)
Wire colour - car side if different
Signal name
>output or <input
Destination
for example-
7 - GN DME<EWS SIGNAL(RT/WS<GN M51 SW/VI<GN 4CYL) (SW/VI DME<OBC M50)
Pin 7
GN - Green wire,
DME's input from the EWS
Green on both side usually
(RT/WS red/white stripe connected to green on car side for M51 Diesels)
(SW/VI black/violet stripe connected to green on 4cyls)
(SW/VI black/violet stripe connected to the OBC for the CODE feature on M50 non EWS)
This is the immobiliser wire which may carry either the EWS signal on EWS cars, or a simple "don't start if grounded" (Autobox
position, CODE, alarm etc) on non EWS cars.
 
There may be errors, there are lot of changes, and I've been through 2-3 different ETMs gathering data but here's a more detailed guide to
each wire.
1,2 - CAN high and low, this is a data signal of engine speeds, road speeds etc, and is shared between a bunch of different modules such as the
Autobox, and ABS/ASC. These may not always be present
3 , this controls the exhaust flap on 328s or a temp switch on 4 cyls
4 - output to the Aircon relay to switch the A/C on
5, Aircon Pressure switch, lets the ECU know whether the a/c works or not. On MS41 (323/328) this seems to be also linked through the Aux fan relay
too, so the fan will only switch on if there is A/C pressure
6 - Aircon on signal from ECU to A/C module, A/C button etc
7 - EWS or DWA signal, grounded=no start on non EWS, for EWS cars, this needs to put a coded signal to the ECU
8 - This is a power supply, it keeps the EWS supplied with power (always on) or may go to the Aux Fan relay on M44 cars. This is also the live that
gets switched for flashing the Check engine light on OBD1 cars. If you remember the OBD1 check engine light, you connect a live wire to this pin, and
the ECU will ground it allowing power to flow and light a light bulb if you are trying to do code reading
9 - This is an ABS signal on most cars, I believe it is the "reduce power" signal, but also M3s use this as the Oil temp sensor for the
instruments
10- Reverse light switch
11/12 - Temp sensor signal from the dual temp sender to the temp gauge in the Instruments. One part send a signal to the ECU, the other connects just
to the instruments. Some late cars such as compacts don't use a direct
link like this, they use a data signal from the ECU
13 - Switched output from the fuel pump relay on the engine loom to the fuel pump
14 - Speed signal input to the ECU from the clocks.
15 - "Starter activated" signal, this is sent out to devices like the radio etc, getting them to shut off for a second to route more power
to the Starter
16,17 - Diagnostic lines, TXD and RXD
18 - T50 - Terminal 50 is the start signal, live when the starter is activated
19 - Service light reset from Diag plug pin 7 to the Instrument cluster to reset the lights
20 - TD RPM signal from the engine to the instruments
21 - T15- live wire when the ignition is at run or start, (but not at the Acc / radio on), power signal to ECU
22 -T15S - This seems to be a switched live output, when the ignition is on, and may connect to the reverse lights on some models
23- Oil pressure warning light to instruments
24- Ti fuel consumption signal from the ECU to the instruments/OBC
25 - D+, output from the alternator to the alternator / battery light.
German Colours are as follows-
BL - BLUE
BR - BROWN
GE - YELLOW (Pay attention to that one!)
GN- GREEN
GR -GRAY
OR - ORANGE
RS - PINK
RT - RED
SW - BLACK
VI- VIOLET
WS- WHITE
TR - TRANSPARENT
Most cars will have a few of those missing and unused, but if you are experiencing problems after an engine conversion, have a look at both the engine
loom side, and the chassis loom side, and make sure everything is where it should be.
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