that is how I set them up.. however I have just thought that the one thing I haven't proven is that the spark outputs from MS were labelled up
correctly to which pin they were using. I relied on someone else for that, I clearly have got 4 right wires out of it, but they could be the wrong way
round, even if I have wired the engine bay up right.
would it idle ok if were wrong? I can probable answer that myself as it ran almost ok with 2 plugs out !
quote:Originally posted by Ugg10
Sorry if I am teaching granny to suck the proverbial, stating the obvious etc., but are the plug leads/coilpack/ecu/injectors all connected up and
firing in the right order?
That trigger setup is wrong.
The best way to configure is the same as an EDIS8. Sensor five teeth BEFORE missing tooth.
Also, before you go any further I would strongly recommend you upgrade your ECU to MS2, you do not need to buy a new ECU, you can upgrade yours.
NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
Hi Chris,
looking at the images of the main board, if those 4 wires are feeding the LS2 COPs without any transistors in between them, then I'm afraid its
not wired correctly. Your firing Sparks A and B correctly, but C and D your triggering directly off the uP, which will damage the uP and the signal
will be inverted when compared to the other 2 outputs.
You need to shoot who ever made it and get it built correctly before you plug it in again, as its never going to run well like that.
thanks
Phil
quote:Originally posted by daxtojeiro
Hi Chris,
looking at the images of the main board, if those 4 wires are feeding the LS2 COPs without any transistors in between them, then I'm afraid its
not wired correctly. Your firing Sparks A and B correctly, but C and D your triggering directly off the uP, which will damage the uP and the signal
will be inverted when compared to the other 2 outputs.
You need to shoot who ever made it and get it built correctly before you plug it in again, as its never going to run well like that.
thanks
Phil
www.ExtraEFI.co.uk
The best thing to do is send your ECU to Phil and get him to upgrade it to MS2 and install the coil drivers properly at the same time.
We have better results with MS2 compared to MS1, same BHP but much better low engine fueling control due to much better resolution.
Also, the MS2 trigger wheel setup easier to get your head around!
Possible egg sucking - the coil and injector outputs are in firing order not cylinder order. So output 1 would fire cylinders 1&6 and out2
8&5. Assuming I have the order right, my ms3 is on a 4 pot.
I have four bip373 transistors spare if you need any, I used an Audi coil driver pack and cbr1000 cops instead.
quote:Originally posted by Toltec
Hi Chris, I followed your link from skcc.
Possible egg sucking - the coil and injector outputs are in firing order not cylinder order. So output 1 would fire cylinders 1&6 and out2
8&5. Assuming I have the order right, my ms3 is on a 4 pot.
I have four bip373 transistors spare if you need any, I used an Audi coil driver pack and cbr1000 cops instead.
thanks for the pointer.. I am pretty damn certain the firing order is correct. The MS is back with the person who added the spark outputs to it. I
think I know what the issue is..
no amplifiers/ignitors needed thank you as the LS2s have built in ignitors.
"Hi guys. I couldn't find anything when I searched for this, but if it's already known, feel free to scrap my post.
I had some trouble running ground switching four cylinder sequential COP on my V3 board running MS1Extra and I've chased it down to the diagram
instructing on how to make the changes. On the diagram it shows taking Spark A (IGN) and B (SPR4) from the top of the LEDs, while Spark C (SPR2) and D
(SPR3) should be taken from R27 and R1. In this configuration Spark A and B are inverted compared to Spark C and D. I rewired my board to match the 5V
pull-up circuit locations and moved Spark A to R26 and Spark B to R29 and everything is working and aligned properly."
You cannot drive the coilpack directly from the uP outputs, this is a bad idea.
As you say the coils you are using have built in amps and need to be driven by an 5v signal via a transistor added to the MS.
In the past, just for the sake of keeping all 4 output circuits the same i have added 4 2N2222A transistors with 1k collectors pull ups to 5v, base to
uP output via 1k res.
i suggest you also look at your trigger wheel setup, we have found the best way is to minic an EDIS8.
if you put your VR beyond half way around the wheel the engine appears to take longer to fire.
NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
Hi Chris,
I would have serious doubts about the guy who wired it up for you. He clearly has no idea what he is doing and shouldn't be let anywhere near a
soldering iron.
I wouldn't send it back to him, it will come back with other issues.
If it is who I think it is then we have tried and tried to stop him from using the word "megasquirt" in his company name, but he refuses
to change it.
Just because someone has "MegaSquirt" in their title doesn't mean they are part of the team, he uses the came to fool people into
thinking he knows what he is doing, but this is just another clear case showing he doesn't.
I'm afraid I dont fix other people's ECUs as they are always a nightmare and I end up spending hours on them trying to get them running.
The poor guy then come back for info because they weren't sold with any manuals or instructions and the seller has no ability to back the
product up, because he has no idea what he is doing.
Bottom line is, buy an MS from a reputable dealer who is part of the team and who is on the recommended list on the main MSExtra forum. Better still,
buy from the guy in the UK who wrote a load of the code for the Extra firmware, has a proper warrantee, writes a load of manuals and help files etc
etc,
quote:Originally posted by daxtojeiro
Hi Chris,
I would have serious doubts about the guy who wired it up for you. He clearly has no idea what he is doing and shouldn't be let anywhere near a
soldering iron.
I wouldn't send it back to him, it will come back with other issues.
If it is who I think it is then we have tried and tried to stop him from using the word "megasquirt" in his company name, but he refuses
to change it.
Just because someone has "MegaSquirt" in their title doesn't mean they are part of the team, he uses the came to fool people into
thinking he knows what he is doing, but this is just another clear case showing he doesn't.
I'm afraid I dont fix other people's ECUs as they are always a nightmare and I end up spending hours on them trying to get them running.
The poor guy then come back for info because they weren't sold with any manuals or instructions and the seller has no ability to back the
product up, because he has no idea what he is doing.
Bottom line is, buy an MS from a reputable dealer who is part of the team and who is on the recommended list on the main MSExtra forum. Better still,
buy from the guy in the UK who wrote a load of the code for the Extra firmware, has a proper warrantee, writes a load of manuals and help files etc
etc,
thanks
Phil [/quot
^^^^ and that is why i buy my ECUs from Phil, not sure how meany i have had but its a lot without a single problem!
If you bring the car to me for mapping i will fix your ECU included in the price.
www.facebook.com/baileyperformance
NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
I have recently wired up my Coil Packs for my Rover V8 running Megajolt. I must say it's probably the easiest job I have done on my car that I
managed to mess up time and time again. Seems so simple but it's just not.
Scudderfish and BaileyPerformance basically held my hand through the whole process and it seems to be working fine. My advice is to check, then check
again and check that the drawing your working from is from a reliable source.
Hi Chris,
Im afraid your ECU guy has just contacted me, he doesn't have a clue what to do to make it work and I simply won't help that guy as he is
bringing the MegaSquirt name down with his poorly backed up units and badly built ECUs. It's really not rocket science and he should know how
to wire 4 spark outputs up by now!
My advice to you is get it back and take Dales offer up, it will save you a lot of time in the long run and a lot of money no doubt,
thanks
Phil
sorry for the quiet time, had to get a lot of work work done in prep for my Wife going in for a sinus opp tomorrow and being out of the office for a
few days in the middle of a major project, along with a refresher on how the kids days go whilst I am normally out at work!
Just a brief recap, I bought the MS on a bit of whim from someone on here along with the TBs etc etc. I didn't twig at the time that the spark
outputs were not done yet and in hindsight I would have / should have just bought it from you Phil. I totally agree with that.
I opted to farm out the soldering work as I haven't got the kit nor did I want to spend the time practising. Also due to this I didn't
bother learning the wiring diagrams and ask for confirmation before commencing etc.
anyway, I clearly chose the wrong bod to get the job done. hey ho..
so I am where I am. the board is back.
Dale, your offer is very kind and I think I mentioned way back that the problem is my location - ie miles away from you, so there is a logistical
problem. You are 3-4hrs away (160 miles).
I don't have a tow car, so it wouldn't just be the cost of a trailer and staying over somewhere.
The Car's MOT has expired too. And also so much has changed, I really need to prove as much as possible on the drive, even just at idle before
taking it anywhere. Ie does the new cooling setup work, have I got an inlet manifold leak, can I get the TBs reasonably balanced with a
syncrometer.
As my options really are a large expense to get it to and from you, and or buying a new MS from Phil, I decided that I might as well risk the one I
have, I have nothing to loose really.
So I read over the manual and the LS2 coils read as if they want a Ground switching pulse. The resistance I measured over the weekend was 9000ohms.
Now this is what chappie said he had done. However, taking Phil's comment re inverted outputs I got him to follow this post, only on a hunch and
it was worth a try:
"I had some trouble running ground switching four cylinder sequential COP on my V3 board running MS1Extra and I've chased it down to the
diagram instructing on how to make the changes. On the diagram it shows taking Spark A (IGN) and B (SPR4) from the top of the LEDs, while Spark C
(SPR2) and D (SPR3) should be taken from R27 and R1. In this configuration Spark A and B are inverted compared to Spark C and D. I rewired my board to
match the 5V pull-up circuit locations and moved Spark A to R26 and Spark B to R29 and everything is working and aligned properly."
I ended up having to move the wires on the bottom of the board as he had forgotten in his rush to get it back in the post to me-- doh! I managed to
find a soldering Iron at lunchtime today.
So I tried it again. It perhaps seems to be better, I could at least apply some throttle without it being terrible and it did pick up a few revs.. not
a lot.
Dale - I now think I get your point re the trigger wheel. I was thinking I had to move the VR sensor, but I can of course just unbolt the trigger
wheel and twist it round. I thinking my numbers are stil ok as per the wheeldecoder.xls settings, but if the MS is known to be better with a much
lower tooth being at TDC, then I shall move it and see how that fares. Also try changing the inverted setting.
At least like this, I can get it hot etc and try and prove it is worthy of a trip to you Dale.
Hi Chris,
See how you get on but if you still have trouble we may be able to sort a deal to correct ECU and map including transport.
We have a land rover and car trailer.
Happy to give you free support whatever you decide to do, via this forum, email or txt.
dale.bladen@orange.net
NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
quote:Originally posted by BaileyPerformance
Hi Chris,
See how you get on but if you still have trouble we may be able to sort a deal to correct ECU and map including transport.
We have a land rover and car trailer.
Happy to give you free support whatever you decide to do, via this forum, email or txt.
I must confess I had no idea what it was going to sound like, at the time the grin was mainly for YES u have got it to run with what seems to be
proper timing but as I 'had' to rev it a bit more the grin certainly got stuck for the sound track!
I hope it will run under load. Need to tidy up the wiring and a few more bits, balance the TBs and try to get it to a mot.
quote:Originally posted by simonrh
Is that stock rv8 except for Carbs? Sounds wicked
Inlet Manifold Gasket Black composite
Edelbrock Performer Inlet Manifold
Head Gasket Composite Head Gasket
Main Bearing Bolts ARP Bolts
Big End Bolts ARP Bolts
Head Bolts ARP Bolts
Camshaft Camshaft ETC 6849 believe Range Rover HC 9.35:1
Inlet Manifold Thermostat housing Chrome Water Neck for US Ford 351 cu in
Timing Chain and gears Billet Camshaft Timing chain and Gear set.
Front Pulley Rover V8 P6 Pulley
Coolant Header Tank Custom made Aluminium header tank
Oil Filter Mann W916/1
Engine Block Rebored to +0.020" 9.35:1 SD1
Pistons Hepolite Rover P6 +0.020" new Pistons
Crank Standard size bearings polished
Flywheel Standard Resurfaced and new clutch locating pins fitted
Timing Chain Cover SD1
Carb SH Holley 390 Carb with primary and secondary metering plates
Oil Pump New Oil Pump gears and housing
Heads SH Rover SD1 Vitesse?
Oil 20W50 Duckhams or Total
Valves New
Rocker Arms New
Sump SD1
this is the list i was given when I bought the car and it was done in 2004/5. interesting points are
Engine Block Rebored to +0.020" 9.35:1 SD1
Pistons Hepolite Rover P6 +0.020" new Pistons
so in short - not a standard 3.5 !
i got a max of 187 hp at around 5000rpm and 206lb ft.. nice flat torque line too. (estimated at the flywheel) with the holley carb setup.
so I am going to pay my money for the SKCC trip - final deadline was this weekend! finished the car at 1:30 last night.
had a bit of a panic last night as one indicator wasn't working, dodgy wiring inherited from previous owner.. typical. This morning I realised
the fog light hadn't been checked, fixed it 5mins before the test in the work car park, corroded connected between bulb and fitting... they
didn't even test it!
So a bit more tidying to do, I need to get the fuelling better as it is too rich now, map is from a bigger rover, (thanks Dave for your map helped no
end), then I will be in touch with Dale to work out when I can get up to you before my trip in May
thanks all for you help along the way and really especially Phil for spotting the spark outputs were inverted, I never would have got running without
that pointer... I'm still using the grounding circuit, but it seems to be working fine for now.
Happy days (better fuel economy is my next challenge!)
