rodgling
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posted on 9/8/18 at 06:41 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by craigdiver
so far had inlet manifold off and checked seals, fitted new CCV and pipework, fitted 'good' used idle control valve, changed MAF for
'good' used one. smoke tested for vacuum leaks. unplug MAF and it idles ok but higher revs. plug in the MAF and it idles like this...
(engine is M52TU)
I have INPA if anyone can suggest any tests?
https://youtu.be/tEx3HvMpO40
If it idles OK without the MAF but not with it plugged in, then most likely you need a new MAF. (I've had similar issues with this engine).
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craigdiver
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posted on 9/8/18 at 06:50 PM |
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some positive news (I think!). decided to remove intake rubbers so I could see what the throttle body & idle control valve were up to with MAF
disconnected. See video below, all seems to be working well. Whats not on the video is that I put my thumb over the inlet to the ICV and engine
immediately stalled with no hissing from anywhere - i'm sure now that any air leaks have been fixed. everything seems to be pointing to a faulty
MAF. My only concern is that I have bought another second hand MAF and it doesn't idle with that either. Have I been unlucky and now have two
duff MAFs?
(is it only me that thinks its cool the ICF is synced electronically with the TB?)
https://youtu.be/I7Thaz3nqas
gave up for the evening but ill take a look at what INPA is reading off the MAF with ignition on then i'll disconnect MAF so engine idles,
connect up supply from battery to MAF and then measure the signal, think should get roughly 1-4v from idle to high revs.
Any other test suggestions? unfortunately engine won't idle or rev with MAF plugged in so cannot read values off INPA
If it ain't broken, fix it anyway (just because).
Building - BMW powered Haynes Roadster/442E hybrid.
Volvo C30 T5 Polestar
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rodgling
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posted on 9/8/18 at 08:36 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by craigdiver
some positive news (I think!). decided to remove intake rubbers so I could see what the throttle body & idle control valve were up to with MAF
disconnected. See video below, all seems to be working well. Whats not on the video is that I put my thumb over the inlet to the ICV and engine
immediately stalled with no hissing from anywhere - i'm sure now that any air leaks have been fixed. everything seems to be pointing to a faulty
MAF. My only concern is that I have bought another second hand MAF and it doesn't idle with that either. Have I been unlucky and now have two
duff MAFs?
(is it only me that thinks its cool the ICF is synced electronically with the TB?)
https://youtu.be/I7Thaz3nqas
gave up for the evening but ill take a look at what INPA is reading off the MAF with ignition on then i'll disconnect MAF so engine idles,
connect up supply from battery to MAF and then measure the signal, think should get roughly 1-4v from idle to high revs.
Any other test suggestions? unfortunately engine won't idle or rev with MAF plugged in so cannot read values off INPA
Where's your second MAF from? I think some of the budget non-OEM copies are not very good quality, so it's possible it is another faulty
MAF. I'd suggest borrow one from a working car if you can, that will tell you for sure.
If you do end up getting another MAF, I would recommend biting the bullet and getting one from your local BMW dealer, it'll be expensive but it
will work.
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craigdiver
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posted on 9/8/18 at 08:49 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by rodgling
If you do end up getting another MAF, I would recommend biting the bullet and getting one from your local BMW dealer, it'll be expensive but it
will work.
The second MAF I got was a used one from ebay and was the genuine Siemens MAF as per my original one.
If I knew it was the MAF I wouldn’t hesitate to pay the £150 for a new one from BMW, but until I can prove that the MAF is at fault then ill have to
keep testing. Don’t have access to another BMW to test it on unfortunately.
[Edited on 9/8/18 by craigdiver]
If it ain't broken, fix it anyway (just because).
Building - BMW powered Haynes Roadster/442E hybrid.
Volvo C30 T5 Polestar
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craigdiver
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posted on 13/8/18 at 05:35 PM |
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well that was tricky! - rear lighting pods
fabricated rear pods for my rear lights out of a bit of drainage pipe. Quite tricky to profile to the compound curves on the rear arches but got
there. managed to get the true on both axis so Mr IVA should be happy with my fog being at the right angle. Just got to paint them black, remove my
shiny new wheels so I don’t drill into them, and fit lights - happy days
If it ain't broken, fix it anyway (just because).
Building - BMW powered Haynes Roadster/442E hybrid.
Volvo C30 T5 Polestar
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craigdiver
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posted on 14/8/18 at 04:51 PM |
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rear lights fitted
Rear lights fitted but will need to fit a fog light on my rear panel for the IVA as don’t have 100mm separation between brake and fog lights. As per
photo below the four lights have a side-light halo, outer lights have indicator and brake, inner lights have both fog and reverse. Was just planning
on using fog on O/S and reverse on N/S. going to paint grey pipe pods black and cover with neoprene rubber as bit of an edge on the back of the light
units.
If it ain't broken, fix it anyway (just because).
Building - BMW powered Haynes Roadster/442E hybrid.
Volvo C30 T5 Polestar
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craigdiver
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posted on 16/8/18 at 07:14 PM |
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rear tub cover attempt no.2 done and happy with the result. Just need to find some black rubber trim to finish the edge off. Also got lighting pods
painted.
If it ain't broken, fix it anyway (just because).
Building - BMW powered Haynes Roadster/442E hybrid.
Volvo C30 T5 Polestar
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craigdiver
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posted on 18/8/18 at 03:47 PM |
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exhaust sounds amazing
Thats my exhaust welded up today and it sounds amazing. I have left a gap on the 3” pipe to fit a clamp on 12” silencer if it is too loud for IVA but
actually doesn’t sound too bad. The rolled tail pipe protrudes around an inch wider than my rear arch, is that ok?
Will be going to a metal polisher to get brightened up, any ideas how I can make the seams of the silencer IVA friendly (CAT will be completely
wrapped in exhaust wrap so will be ok)
If it ain't broken, fix it anyway (just because).
Building - BMW powered Haynes Roadster/442E hybrid.
Volvo C30 T5 Polestar
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Angel Acevedo
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posted on 18/8/18 at 05:59 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by craigdiver
... any ideas how I can make the seams of the silencer IVA friendly (CAT will be completely wrapped in exhaust wrap so will be ok)
There´s a thread where someone request ideas to modify a bike can.
The can has a riveted on shroud that covers these seams.
Beware of what you wish.. for it may come true....
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craigdiver
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posted on 18/8/18 at 08:45 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by Angel Acevedo
quote: Originally posted by craigdiver
... any ideas how I can make the seams of the silencer IVA friendly (CAT will be completely wrapped in exhaust wrap so will be ok)
There´s a thread where someone request ideas to modify a bike can.
The can has a riveted on shroud that covers these seams.
After giving it some thought I think ill roll a bit of perforated material and secure it with pipe clamps on either side of the silencer. I’ll be able
to finish the edges of the perforated sheet with safe-edge edging.
If it ain't broken, fix it anyway (just because).
Building - BMW powered Haynes Roadster/442E hybrid.
Volvo C30 T5 Polestar
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craigdiver
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posted on 21/8/18 at 09:13 PM |
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Getting very near getting the car into the spray booth for spraying aluminium panels white to match the scuttle and nose cone.
near side now complete, just got front off-side panel to fabricate then its strip down mask it up and paint!
If it ain't broken, fix it anyway (just because).
Building - BMW powered Haynes Roadster/442E hybrid.
Volvo C30 T5 Polestar
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craigdiver
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posted on 21/8/18 at 09:17 PM |
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Once painted ill fill the seam between the aluminium panels and scuttle with white silkaflex 221.
Any suggestions for making a finishing trim for the cockpit side rails? (think I may have asked this already)
If it ain't broken, fix it anyway (just because).
Building - BMW powered Haynes Roadster/442E hybrid.
Volvo C30 T5 Polestar
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Angel Acevedo
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posted on 22/8/18 at 02:13 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by craigdiver
Once painted ill fill the seam between the aluminium panels and scuttle with white silkaflex 221.
Any suggestions for making a finishing trim for the cockpit side rails? (think I may have asked this already)
At some point in time I had a small piece of thin (2 mm or so) diamond ali plate that I planned to use as steps.
Was planning to use on the B2 Tubes also...
Beware of what you wish.. for it may come true....
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craigdiver
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posted on 22/8/18 at 02:47 PM |
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Wow
Wow - 25,000+ views. I really do hope others are getting something out of this build log. 2 years into the build and a massive thanks to all of you
hope contributed some knowledge and wisdom.
If it ain't broken, fix it anyway (just because).
Building - BMW powered Haynes Roadster/442E hybrid.
Volvo C30 T5 Polestar
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craigdiver
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posted on 22/8/18 at 07:21 PM |
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Another productive evening, final panel (O/S front) fabricated. The front panels have been designed to be removable as in the future I want to drop an
M3 lump in and engine access is tight from above. The tops of the panels are mounted with rivnuts. I didn’t want to drill the bottom rail to insert
rivnuts so fabricated brackets which I welded onto the chassis to secure the bottom of the panel. masked off the bottom of the panel and sprayed paint
through the brackets to mark where to drill the holes in the panel for mounting. Getting very near painting time.
If it ain't broken, fix it anyway (just because).
Building - BMW powered Haynes Roadster/442E hybrid.
Volvo C30 T5 Polestar
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craigdiver
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posted on 22/8/18 at 08:37 PM |
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Spray painting....
Going to be getting ready to spray paint the body of the car. I have a full respirator suitable for 1K & 2K paints. Access to a spray booth tent.
I have bought 1K white etch primer and 2K paint which has been matched to my scuttle and nosecone colour (by magic at the automotive paints place by
them scanning the colour from a piece of gel coated GRP from my nose cone).
The bodywork panels are all new semi-hard aluminium and were plastic film coated until I fabricated them into the body panels.
I have never spray painted before with compressor / spray gun so have done quite a bit of research and have come up with this process; (please advise
if i’m doing something wrong)
1) going to degrease body panels
2) machine sand panels with 320 grit
3) clean and degrease panels
4) mix my white etch primer with 15% thinners as instructed by paint manufacturer.
5) spray only one coat and let dry for 24 hours.
6) ** do I sand it down before first coat of top coat, if so, with what grit?
7) mix 2K paint 2:1 10% ratio/thinners and apply first coat.
8) ** do I sand it down before next coat of top coat, if so, with what grit?
9) will I need to give it more than one top coat, if so, spray second coat.
Fingers crossed that all goes well!
If it ain't broken, fix it anyway (just because).
Building - BMW powered Haynes Roadster/442E hybrid.
Volvo C30 T5 Polestar
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craigdiver
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posted on 23/8/18 at 07:07 PM |
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Front O/S panel folded and fabricated. Needed to cut hole for exhaust. well, job done and I was bricking it - It took ages to get that panel just
right and now I have to cut a big hole in it for the exhaust. Thank you for your everyones advice to make a cardboard template - but never took it (on
this occasion). I went down the technology route and used an app that allowed me to superimpose a photo onto the current camera image. So after making
a cardboard template of the hole shape;
1) set camera up in a fixed position.
2) fit exhaust and take initial image.
3) remove exhaust and fit panel.
4) superimpose previous image and mark hole - cannot go wrong as can see ghost image of exhaust.
5) cut hole with perfect result
[Edited on 23/8/18 by craigdiver]
[Edited on 23/8/18 by craigdiver]
If it ain't broken, fix it anyway (just because).
Building - BMW powered Haynes Roadster/442E hybrid.
Volvo C30 T5 Polestar
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craigdiver
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posted on 24/8/18 at 02:02 PM |
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that was a pain in the 4rse!
So, engine not running well with MAF connected (was working when I drove donor to my workshop two years ago) so bought a used but ‘apparently’ good
MAF to diagnose issue - guess what, didn’t help. Learned how MAFs work and diagnosed the two MAFs I have and no signal from either. Bought a new
cheapish MAF at £30. Arrived and engine now very smooth and purring like a Rottweiler. Now I know it was faulty MAFs would you order and fit the £160
BMW OEM MAF?
If it ain't broken, fix it anyway (just because).
Building - BMW powered Haynes Roadster/442E hybrid.
Volvo C30 T5 Polestar
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Angel Acevedo
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posted on 24/8/18 at 02:21 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by craigdiver
So, engine not running well with MAF connected (was working when I drove donor to my workshop two years ago) so bought a used but ‘apparently’ good
MAF to diagnose issue - guess what, didn’t help. Learned how MAFs work and diagnosed the two MAFs I have and no signal from either. Bought a new
cheapish MAF at £30. Arrived and engine now very smooth and purring like a Rottweiler. Now I know it was faulty MAFs would you order and fit the £160
BMW OEM MAF?
I´d run the 30 quid one and when it packs up, i´d change...
Beware of what you wish.. for it may come true....
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craigdiver
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posted on 24/8/18 at 07:11 PM |
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Now engine running great, couldn’t help getting it out for it’s first drive...
https://youtu.be/9lAnPd8rnaM
If it ain't broken, fix it anyway (just because).
Building - BMW powered Haynes Roadster/442E hybrid.
Volvo C30 T5 Polestar
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craigdiver
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posted on 9/9/18 at 02:39 PM |
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Had quite an ordeal painting the car but now done and ready for final assembly.
Painting ordeal can be found here; http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/4/viewthread.php?tid=213218
If it ain't broken, fix it anyway (just because).
Building - BMW powered Haynes Roadster/442E hybrid.
Volvo C30 T5 Polestar
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craigdiver
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posted on 9/9/18 at 02:56 PM |
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Distraction - new toy!
While i’m waiting for myself to get my finger out and finish the roadster I treated myself to this.....
It’s an absolute hooligan to drive!
If it ain't broken, fix it anyway (just because).
Building - BMW powered Haynes Roadster/442E hybrid.
Volvo C30 T5 Polestar
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craigdiver
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posted on 15/9/18 at 10:14 AM |
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Idiot (again! - becoming a habit)
Started on getting N/S engine panel bolted on. Fabricated side grilles from stainless mesh and hot glued into position. Fabricated bracket to secure
cooling pipe at side of engine. Went to test fit panel to see where I needed to put safe-edge on the leading edge and found I had painted the bottom
of it rather than the top - complete muppet! sanded down and brush painted, actually looking not too bad. Ill post a pic when paint dry and panel
fitted.
If it ain't broken, fix it anyway (just because).
Building - BMW powered Haynes Roadster/442E hybrid.
Volvo C30 T5 Polestar
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craigdiver
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posted on 15/9/18 at 12:25 PM |
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Front N/S panel fitted
Front N/S panel fitted - really pleased with the result. Paint-job questionable but has the built it myself look!
If it ain't broken, fix it anyway (just because).
Building - BMW powered Haynes Roadster/442E hybrid.
Volvo C30 T5 Polestar
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Angel Acevedo
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posted on 18/9/18 at 03:12 AM |
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quote: Originally posted by craigdiver
Started on getting N/S engine panel bolted on. Fabricated side grilles from stainless mesh and hot...
At some point in time my engine bay sides will have the same arrangements, but I haven´t thought about grilles there.
What is the reasoning to install them?
Thanks.
AA
Beware of what you wish.. for it may come true....
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