Thinking about it
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| posted on 5/11/08 at 10:02 PM |
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What length shocks?
What length shocks are people using? Open and closed on a book chassis.
Thanks
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MikeR
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| posted on 5/11/08 at 10:08 PM |
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13" front and by using an extended trailing arm bolt at the rear 14" (it puts the shocker in single shear (except i've made a mod
so thats not so).
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Thinking about it
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| posted on 5/11/08 at 10:17 PM |
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I forgot.
And how much travel is required?
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MikeR
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| posted on 5/11/08 at 11:45 PM |
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aha.... let me explain.
Normally live axle cars use a 13" rear shock, but the shock mount is about 1" high, so .... if you remove the shock mount you end up with
no where to attach the shock.
Now, the trailing arm bolt, if it was a lot longer it would stick out the side of the trailing arm brackets. Slide the shock onto the trailing arm
bolt and .... you've got a 14" shock on the back of the car. Note at the moment its in single shear - this is not great but works for lots
of production cars. If you then weld another bracket on to the axle you've got the shock in double shear 
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maartenromijn
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| posted on 6/11/08 at 11:36 AM |
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I have 13" open and 10" closed adjustable Gaz shocks. bump/droop 50/50, so 1,5" eiter way. Front and rear are the same, except for
spring rate.
Edit: As mentioned <- <- there I'm building as per the book. There seem to be some errors with regard to ride height, suspension bracket
location, shock length etc. Check your needs carefully before buying shocks.
[Edited on 6/11/08 by maartenromijn]
BLOG: http://thunderroad-super7.blogspot.com/
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maartenromijn
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| posted on 6/11/08 at 11:44 AM |
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Check my rear mounting points here.
BLOG: http://thunderroad-super7.blogspot.com/
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mr henderson
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| posted on 6/11/08 at 12:36 PM |
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Bearing in mind the variables, have you considered making dummy shocks from lengths of steel until the build is nearly complete? That way you can jack
the car up, remove the dummy shock and operate the suspension though its required movement, then actually measure what you need
John
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