blakep82
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| posted on 28/4/09 at 02:00 PM |
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soldered ends on cables
how do you solder them? is it the same kind of solder you'd use in wiring, or plumbing, or is there another kind needed? or is it not that at
all?
i gather you'd use a blowtorch instead of a soldering iron
where can you get the ends to solder on?
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don't write OT on a new thread title, you're creating the topic, everything you write is very much ON topic!
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tegwin
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| posted on 28/4/09 at 02:02 PM |
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I have used electrical solder to solder small cable ends on...
Plumbing solder for larger stuff... no idea what the difference is betwee the two..
You WILL need a good flux and a blow torch....
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02GF74
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| posted on 28/4/09 at 02:04 PM |
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plumbers solder; electrical is not strong enough,and melts at lower temperature, hence the blow torch.
you would use a blow torch, or even a gas ring on a cooker if careful.
you can buy the brass nipples (as they are called) from VWP. They also sell nipples with grub screw fittings as well as cable in different
diameter.
Or make them yourself from brass rod - B&Q sell them.
the nipple should have a countersunk and the ends of the cable opened out and splayed before soldering - helps prevent the cable being pulled out.
[Edited on 28/4/09 by 02GF74]
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l0rd
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| posted on 28/4/09 at 02:07 PM |
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You need proper tools to do this correctly.
What you are after is called a soldering pot machine.
It is a small pot full of soldering. It is heated up so it is in a liquid form. You flux the end of the cable and then dip it in the soldering pot.
Was looking to get one yesterday.
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blakep82
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| posted on 28/4/09 at 02:08 PM |
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plumbing solder it is then! i wasn't sure if there was any difference. i'd have thought they'd be more welded than soldered
i'm struggling to find a handbrake cable long enough for my car. unsurprisingly, my car's longer than a sierra  someone suggested the
universal cable kit from Hein Gericke, but they're only 2m long, i really need one cable to be almost 4m the other about 2.5m (handbrake lever
won't be in the middle of the car)
so i've bought a handbrake cable from an astra van (look the same caliper ends as the sierra one) to consider modifying. it was only £3
speedycables wanted about £35-45 + vat and post for EACH cable.
________________________
IVA manual link http://www.businesslink.gov.uk/bdotg/action/detail?type=RESOURCES&itemId=1081997083
don't write OT on a new thread title, you're creating the topic, everything you write is very much ON topic!
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blakep82
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| posted on 28/4/09 at 02:09 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by l0rd
You need proper tools to do this correctly.
What you are after is called a soldering pot machine.
It is a small pot full of soldering. It is heated up so it is in a liquid form. You flux the end of the cable and then dip it in the soldering pot.
Was looking to get one yesterday.
if you get one let me know 
________________________
IVA manual link http://www.businesslink.gov.uk/bdotg/action/detail?type=RESOURCES&itemId=1081997083
don't write OT on a new thread title, you're creating the topic, everything you write is very much ON topic!
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l0rd
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| posted on 28/4/09 at 02:14 PM |
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If i would get the one on ebay atm at 599 quid, i would have to charge you 34.99 per cable  free p&p
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l0rd
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| posted on 28/4/09 at 02:16 PM |
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this is what you want
http://www.rapidonline.com/Tools-Fasteners-Production-Equipment/Soldering-Equipment/Soldering-Irons/Solder-pots/73129/kw/85-1050?source=googleps&u
tm_source=googleps
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blakep82
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| posted on 28/4/09 at 02:30 PM |
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£34.99 with free p&p, well, its cheaper than speedy cables...
i guess any sort of crucibel ( i think thats what they're called, if i remember school chemistry all those years ago) of solder heated with a
blowtorch should do it?
i found the nipples (he he) on VWP, looks like it might come together, as lng as this astra van cable is long enough
________________________
IVA manual link http://www.businesslink.gov.uk/bdotg/action/detail?type=RESOURCES&itemId=1081997083
don't write OT on a new thread title, you're creating the topic, everything you write is very much ON topic!
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Staple balls
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| posted on 28/4/09 at 02:34 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by l0rd
this is what you want
http://www.rapidonline.com/Tools-Fasteners-Production-Equipment/Soldering-Equipment/Soldering-Irons/Solder-pots/73129/kw/85-1050?source=googleps&u
tm_source=googleps
 £65?
I'm sure a couple of bits of pipe and a blowtorch would do the job for about £64 less.
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DarrenW
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| posted on 28/4/09 at 02:45 PM |
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When i failed first SVA on handbrake, tester was very critical to explain he would not accept home modified cables. He wanted to see either shop
bought cable kit or if they were custom made ones evidence of what equipment was used to press the ends on including forces used etc. I used Allegro
cables in the end that were just about spot on and came pre-made with the correct ends fitted. Unfortunately the steel brackets (U shaped bits with
cable slot) were too weak and distorted, got through by adding a jubilee clip around them to add strength.
Incidently - the original fail was because i used std sierra cable that was cut and re-joined used 2 clamps at either side of the quadrant - however i
believe this joining method was since deemed to be acceptable by VOSA (not sure if it carries over to IVA though).
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blakep82
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| posted on 28/4/09 at 02:51 PM |
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^ ah, that is interesting.
its funny though how you can build a chassis yourself, make a fuel tank, plumb it all in, but they don't like a modified handbrake cable.
the problem i have is there is no way i can mount the lever to the tunnel. it must go to the right of the driver seat. add to that, the back wheels
are further away than most cars, the cable from the rear left wheel to the lever will be about 4m, and the other one about 2.5m. because its not in
the centre i can't use a standard cable. i need 2 seperate cables. we'll see how i get on with these astra cables. they might be alright
lol knowing my luck though, they won't be
________________________
IVA manual link http://www.businesslink.gov.uk/bdotg/action/detail?type=RESOURCES&itemId=1081997083
don't write OT on a new thread title, you're creating the topic, everything you write is very much ON topic!
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02GF74
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| posted on 28/4/09 at 03:22 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by DarrenW
When i failed first SVA on handbrake, tester was very critical to explain he would not accept home modified cables.
I remember that ....
I wonder if you can rasie a dispute? You can make a cable and have them test it - a win-win situation for you as if it fails, then you know it was a
bad 'un so has saved your neck and if it passes, then that is ok too!
cable clamps is defo not the way to go it.
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Andi
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| posted on 28/4/09 at 03:30 PM |
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I made an accelerator cable/nipple some time ago. The old sierra cable had snapped at the pedal. The ball type nipple. I drilled out the old cable at
the ball end and used a blow torch with silver solder (maplins cheap) to fill the hole and solder in a pushbike cable.
Strong as you like. Try not to directly flame the cable though.
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907
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| posted on 28/4/09 at 05:05 PM |
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I did mine with silver solder.
With the spare bit I made up a test piece and tested it to destruction.
It broke at 330kgs so in theory I could lift my car by the handbrake cables.
Cheers
Paul G
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l0rd
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| posted on 28/4/09 at 09:53 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Staple balls
£65?
I'm sure a couple of bits of pipe and a blowtorch would do the job for about £64 less.
Is that why you are building up to a disaster????
[Edited on 28/4/09 by l0rd]
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Staple balls
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| posted on 28/4/09 at 10:04 PM |
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Damn right. I strongly believe in doing a job wrong, or not doing it at all
Edit: haha, didn't realise that was my sig.
[Edited on 28/4/09 by Staple balls]
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paulf
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| posted on 29/4/09 at 08:24 PM |
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I made a steel nipple for my handbrake cable and drilled it to fit the cable then countersunk one side.I then put the cable through and splayed the
end out before welding it with my mig on a low setting.
If silver soldering you need to be carefull not to overheat the cable and I dont think soft solder would last long for a handbrake cable.
Paul.
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