antonio
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 posted on 30/12/09 at 06:49 AM |
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help!!!!!!residual pressure valve fitting issue
hi guys
i desesperatly look for two 1/8 npt to 3/8 24 adaptator to fit my residual pressure valve (see below, the fourth
on)http://www.wilwood.com/Products/008-Components/001-FA/index.asp
anyone of you have some available?bought my part from RD thinking they would come with it (as prop valve) but
only available in USA so far, but i'm in a hurry!if anyone can help.
best regards
antonio
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turbodisplay
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| posted on 30/12/09 at 08:36 AM |
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Try a hydraulic parts supplier.
Darren
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NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
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omega 24 v6
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| posted on 30/12/09 at 09:57 AM |
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Male to male?? Female to female? Male to female ( which way round? )
A huge range of fittings HERE
[Edited on 30/12/09 by omega 24 v6]
If it looks wrong it probably is wrong.
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britishtrident
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| posted on 30/12/09 at 12:11 PM |
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Residual pressure valves are a truly horrible bodge, they were really only intended to keep the rubber seals expanded to reduce fluid leakage on some
cars.
You will find inline residual pressure valves with standard automotive fittings on 19 70s cars such as Simca 1307/Chrysler Alpine.
However You should track down the real cause of the problem. Start by checking the calipers are as near 100% true to the disc as you can
make them. If when you put your hand on a caliper while an assistant pounds the brakes on hard and off you can feel the slightest movement of the
caliper body then you have found at least part of the problem.
[Edited on 30/12/09 by britishtrident]
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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antonio
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| posted on 30/12/09 at 06:19 PM |
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thanks for answering, but can you clarify the point below?what's the matter if i can feel the calliper move very slightly on presure?
i use residual valve because front master cylinder is mounted below front callipers wich cause drain back.brakes are efficient, but after a stop i
need to pump one or two times to get hard pedal (i have carfully check for leaks but nothing)
cheers
quote:
Originally posted by britishtrident
However You should track down the real cause of the problem. Start by checking the calipers are as near 100% true to the disc as you can
make them. If when you put your hand on a caliper while an assistant pounds the brakes on hard and off you can feel the slightest movement of the
caliper body then you have found at least part of the problem.
[Edited on 30/12/09 by britishtrident]
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MV8
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| posted on 9/1/10 at 08:56 PM |
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Depending on the type of master cylinder do you have, the lid can be modified to accept a fitting for a hose to a small, remote can mounted on the
firewall, above your calipers.
Another option is to tap the residual pressure for bspt if you cannot source 1/8" npt, but why not eliminate the need?
If you don't want to modify your master cylinder lid and make your own resevoir, Wilwood has a dual circuit, remote master cylinder in various
bore sizes.
If the caliper can be moved around with the brakes fully applied, then full pressure is not acting on the caliper piston. A few problems that could
cause this are corrosion around the piston in the caliper bore causing the piston to stick, the overall leverage ratio is insufficient, air in the
lines, etc.
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