cliftyhanger
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| posted on 26/1/12 at 02:27 PM |
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Type 9 rebuild Q's
My good friend pete "the gearbox man" has taken away my 2 type 9's, a normal pinto type, and a 4x4. All stripped, and he says need
nothing doing.
So he is putting together a long first, HD pinto 2wd box for me. All pretty simple, even using the mechanical speedo drive. BUT he wants to know if
5th gear should be pressed on or heated first? Also, does any of the splined section need cutting off to fit the box on the back of my zetec? (we can
assemble it all up and find out, but be good to use a lathe while the gearbox is in bits) If so, how much should be removed?
Many thanks
Clive
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scotty g
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| posted on 26/1/12 at 02:37 PM |
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To the best of my knowledge you don't need to remove anything as it fits onto the zetec just fine.
cheers.
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cliftyhanger
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| posted on 26/1/12 at 02:44 PM |
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Ah, maybe confusion. The HD/long first gearbox uses the longer first motion/input shaft. Not sure if just the spigot or some of the clutch splines
need to be removed.
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Paul Turner
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| posted on 26/1/12 at 03:10 PM |
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Got a hybrid box in mine just like you have but got Steve Perks at SPC to put one of his 2.75 firsts in it instead of the 3.36 standard ratio, my
ratios are now 2.75, 1.81, 1.26, 1 and .82. its brilliant and cost peanuts compared to BGH boxes etc. 2wd 5 speed box cost me £40 for a knackered
diesel one, only wanted tail case afterall, 4x4 box cost me £6.00 on e-bay, collecting it cost me more, new first gear and rebuild cost £350, grand
total £396. I sold the V6 alloy bellhousing that came with the 4x4 box for £120 on e-bay and the V6 x-member for £10 on e-bay and the V6 transfer box
for £10 on e-bay meaning I got a newly rebuilt close ratio box for £256, beat that.
You cannot use the long input shaft without the spacer that Caterham make for use with this box and the 4 cylinder bellhousing onto the back of a
Zetec or any 4 cylinder engine for that matter, got a Blacktop in mine. Many people have just simply cut about 20mm off the end of the shaft and
fitted it but the splined part grounds into the end of the crank and after a short time your thrusts are buggered or as happened to one chap I met it
broke the centre main bearing web clean out of the block. Some may get away with but its not worth the risk. Unfortunately the Caterham spacer is
about £80 but RWD Motorsport do one that is about £45, here'e the link
http://www.rwdmotorsport.com/adaptor-plate-for-rs2000-type-bellhousing-to-2-8-gearbox/prod_13.html The RWD one is quite a bit thinner and I have never
checked if the clearances to the end of the spiggot drilling in the crank are OK since obviously I have never needed to, would be worth checking to
avoid disaster, a bit off the end of the shaft with a grinder would do the trick I don't doubt. The upside of the Caterham spacer is it moves
the gearbox back 30mm which makes the gearlever easier to reach.
If you have the true Heavy Duty box with the bolted on spiggot bush at the front the spacer will need machining to fit around the bush.
[Edited on 26/1/12 by Paul Turner]
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cliftyhanger
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| posted on 26/1/12 at 04:48 PM |
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Yep, has the spigot bearing. I don't have any spare room for a spacer (this is going in a spitfire!) but we (he!) can take a chunk off the first
motion shaft easily enough, lathe access is do-able.
just need to find a scrap box so I can also assemble a good normal type 9 and flog on the bay, after all it has now been properly inspected and all
good, so that should be worth a few bob. No rush, they seem to be increasing in value
Now, anybody know about 5th gear and if it should just be pressed on? or heat first?
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Ian.C
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| posted on 26/1/12 at 05:53 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by cliftyhanger
Yep, has the spigot bearing. I don't have any spare room for a spacer (this is going in a spitfire!) but we (he!) can take a chunk off the first
motion shaft easily enough, lathe access is do-able.
just need to find a scrap box so I can also assemble a good normal type 9 and flog on the bay, after all it has now been properly inspected and all
good, so that should be worth a few bob. No rush, they seem to be increasing in value
Now, anybody know about 5th gear and if it should just be pressed on? or heat first?
I pressed mine on.
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AdrianH
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| posted on 26/1/12 at 06:20 PM |
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You may have to machine the back face of the main housing to take the long first gear set.
I have the mod to a standard spec box.
For details look at this article.
http://www.eddybrown.co.uk/mg/type-9-article/
Adrian
Why do I have to make the tools to finish the job? More time then money.
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flak monkey
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| posted on 26/1/12 at 09:43 PM |
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5th gear isn't normally that tight. I certainly didnt need to heat it when i fitted mine. Bear in mind heating it to anything over about 200deg
C will affect its temper too.
Sera
http://www.motosera.com
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cliftyhanger
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| posted on 26/1/12 at 10:23 PM |
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Thanks all, I think we (he) will be happy with all that.
No need to heat the gear, and a bit off the splines. The bellhousing may need a bit cutting out as well I suspect for the stub.
We are using the HD case, it is more or less identical to the std version. Though he is adding a drain plug should I ever want to do an oil change.
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