Blackbird Rush
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| posted on 1/9/12 at 04:05 PM |
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Rover V8 and megasquirt
Hi all
Thinking ahead to when I get the v8 running, I want to go efi with megasquirt, I currently have a ms v3 with ms1 chip running fuel only on the bike
engine, is this level of ms ok or should I upgrade the chip?
I want to go distributorless with no airflow meter do I need an coil with 8 plug leads or can I use 2 x coils from a 4 cylinder?
Do I need a separate ignition amp or will the coils be triggered by the ms?
Going distributorless I assume I need to keep the dizzy to spin the oil pump, any tips on cutting it down but still retaining the oil pump drive from
the cam?
Cheers
Ash
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mark chandler
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| posted on 1/9/12 at 05:21 PM |
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You can cut off the bowl of the distributor and cap the top.
Have a look Here for tips 
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Simon
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| posted on 1/9/12 at 10:44 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Blackbird Rush
Going distributorless I assume I need to keep the dizzy to spin the oil pump, any tips on cutting it down but still retaining the oil pump drive from
the cam?
Cheers
Ash
I have one sitting in my garage not doing much - make me an offer
[img]
 
Description
[/img]
ATB
Simon
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stevebubs
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| posted on 2/9/12 at 12:22 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Blackbird Rush
Hi all
Thinking ahead to when I get the v8 running, I want to go efi with megasquirt, I currently have a ms v3 with ms1 chip running fuel only on the bike
engine, is this level of ms ok or should I upgrade the chip?
Is fine, but you may wish to explore the MS Extra firmware for spark functionality via EDIS...
quote:
I want to go distributorless with no airflow meter do I need an coil with 8 plug leads or can I use 2 x coils from a 4 cylinder?
Do I need a separate ignition amp or will the coils be triggered by the ms?
Either...
quote:
Going distributorless I assume I need to keep the dizzy to spin the oil pump, any tips on cutting it down but still retaining the oil pump drive from
the cam?
Cheers
Ash
Already answered...
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v8kid
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| posted on 2/9/12 at 05:57 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Blackbird Rush
Going distributorless I assume I need to keep the dizzy to spin the oil pump, any tips on cutting it down but still retaining the oil pump drive from
the cam?
Cheers
Ash
You can also change the front cover and get a concentric oil pump which is much better - both pressure and flow. I did this before I went dry sump to
get the engine a couple of inches lower. I think I paid £200 at the time but they are only worth £100 now. Story of my life.
Cheers!
You'd be surprised how quickly the sales people at B&Q try and assist you after ignoring you for the past 15 minutes when you try and start a
chainsaw
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Blackbird Rush
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| posted on 2/9/12 at 07:20 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by v8kid
quote:
Originally posted by Blackbird Rush
Going distributorless I assume I need to keep the dizzy to spin the oil pump, any tips on cutting it down but still retaining the oil pump drive from
the cam?
Cheers
Ash
You can also change the front cover and get a concentric oil pump which is much better - both pressure and flow. I did this before I went dry sump to
get the engine a couple of inches lower. I think I paid £200 at the time but they are only worth £100 now. Story of my life.
Cheers!
Hi sounds interesting, will it bolt straight to an SD1 block? Presumably this it the one from a p38 engine? I see from a pic that the longer oil pick
up goes straight to the pump in the cover, would I need to block off the old pickup hole in the engine block? Also will a std SD1 cam and timing gear
fit under the cover still as the redundant pump drive gear would still be there?
Cheers
Ash
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Blackbird Rush
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| posted on 2/9/12 at 07:22 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Simon
quote:
Originally posted by Blackbird Rush
Going distributorless I assume I need to keep the dizzy to spin the oil pump, any tips on cutting it down but still retaining the oil pump drive from
the cam?
Cheers
Ash
I have one sitting in my garage not doing much - make me an offer
[img]
Description
[/img]
ATB
Simon
Hi , deciding on front covers now, I'll drop you a line if I decide to keep my std pump cover.
Cheers
Ash
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Blackbird Rush
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| posted on 2/9/12 at 07:26 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by stevebubs
quote:
Originally posted by Blackbird Rush
Hi all
Thinking ahead to when I get the v8 running, I want to go efi with megasquirt, I currently have a ms v3 with ms1 chip running fuel only on the bike
engine, is this level of ms ok or should I upgrade the chip?
Is fine, but you may wish to explore the MS Extra firmware for spark functionality via EDIS...
Ok I'll have a nose at the ms sites and refresh my memory.
Cheers
Ash
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mark chandler
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| posted on 2/9/12 at 08:54 AM |
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Ash
You can also change the front cover and get a concentric oil pump which is much better - both pressure and flow. I did this before I went dry sump to
get the engine a couple of inches lower. I think I paid £200 at the time but they are only worth £100 now. Story of my life.
Cheers!
Hi sounds interesting, will it bolt straight to an SD1 block? Presumably this it the one from a p38 engine? I see from a pic that the longer oil pick
up goes straight to the pump in the cover, would I need to block off the old pickup hole in the engine block? Also will a std SD1 cam and timing gear
fit under the cover still as the redundant pump drive gear would still be there?
Cheers
Ash
When I put an early cover on a P38 I had to space out the crank, you will also need a P38 cam so not a straight swap.
Late classic rangerovers are a hybrid with better concentric oil pump and retain the distributor, 3.9's and above, although for the effort is
not really worth it, keeping the SD1 as is or get a 3.9, 4.0, 4.6 as a whole lump and sell on what you have.
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Blackbird Rush
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| posted on 2/9/12 at 10:54 AM |
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Hmm looks like I'll need to use a p38 sump too, so simpler to stay with my current set up for now.
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