Craig81
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| posted on 20/10/04 at 07:32 PM |
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OIL LIGHT
Hi all,
Went out in car for its first proper (legal) run last nite.
Car goes fantastic with its tuned xflow engine but i did notice the oil pressure light flicker on a couple of times!!
The sump has been shortened and im woundeing if i havent baffled it quite right. Can anyone show me a pic of a correctly baffled sump???
When the engine idles from cold, I have a indicated oil pressure of about 30psi. When the engine is warm, at idle it drops to 15 psi and thyen remains
at 30 whilst driving along.
Do these values sound about right or should i think about using a hp pump??
Cheers
Craig
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Alan B
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| posted on 20/10/04 at 08:07 PM |
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Pressures do sound a little low IMO.
Is the engine re-built?
If so it could need an HP pump.
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 20/10/04 at 09:09 PM |
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Don't end up in the same boat as me! I had an oil pressure failure on my first attempt to get to the SVA (reason unknown).
Before this happened I was getting a steady 45psi, which is normal, dipping to around 25-30psi on a slow tick-over.
I replaced the pump with a HP one, and now get 65-70psi in normal running, dipping to 40psi on tick-over.
The down-side is that the higher pressure finds potential leaks a lot quicker!
David
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geezer
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| posted on 20/10/04 at 09:09 PM |
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could be pres relief valve sticking inside oil pump cos u should have more presure from cold than 30 psi , prob nearer 80 with a standard pump when
cold (this is asuming ur not using 5w30 or even 0w50)
best to stick to decent 15w40(not sticky oil , but slippery). High pres pump only an advantage if you are really going to be gunning it large
styl-lay.
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 20/10/04 at 09:12 PM |
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Forgot to mention - mine's a x-flow as well!
Also, following on from geezer's comments, don't forget that the x-flow was designed to work with 20W50 oil originally. You can still get
it, if you search around.
David
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geezer
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| posted on 20/10/04 at 09:16 PM |
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just an after thought, i did actually run a crossflow many years ago on ep90 gear oil!!!!!! (when ur hard up youll try what u got lying round ) it
nearly wound the oil pres gauge needle round its spindle but it did stop it smoking for a bit cos crosflows with std type pistons dont like to much
revs, breaks up piston rings cos there too wide for high revs
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Craig81
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| posted on 21/10/04 at 04:39 PM |
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Hi all,
Thanks for replys
Ive been running it on 5w30 as told to by the guy who sold me the oil!!!. (My fault for listerning).
Guess i should change it for something like 15w40 then!!
David, are u still up for sunday?
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 21/10/04 at 07:08 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Craig81
Hi all,
Thanks for replys
Ive been running it on 5w30 as told to by the guy who sold me the oil!!!. (My fault for listerning).
Guess i should change it for something like 15w40 then!!
Go for 20W50! You can get Duckhams 20W50 in Ipswich (motor factors on Norwich Road - forgotten their name)
quote:
David, are u still up for sunday?
I didn't realise (or had forgotten!) that you were local! I don't know about Sunday - really depends on the weather, as I have no
protection at all (no windscreen or flyscreen). I've ridden a bike in enough rain to know that I don't want to get that wet too often!
David
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ernie
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| posted on 21/10/04 at 07:50 PM |
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oil light
I have just had 1300 crossflow rebuilt by Vulcan for race car they use Valvoline 20-50 race oil I got some at £14.00 per 5lts from Southern Motor
factors 01322 556336
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stephen_gusterson
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| posted on 21/10/04 at 09:41 PM |
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my grandfather, when he was a mechanic, used to recommend duckhams.....
isnt it a strange colour.... green or summat?
atb
steve
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jollygreengiant
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| posted on 21/10/04 at 09:52 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by stephen_gusterson
my grandfather, when he was a mechanic, used to recommend duckhams.....
isnt it a strange colour.... green or summat?
atb
steve
Not any more it's not. Sythetic based oils are probably best these days as the oil retains a slight electical charge which allows it to stay
attached better to the steel parts when the engine is switched off. Castrol made a big thing about this but when they gave me the low down about it
they let slip that it applies to all synthetics, castrol just picked up on it!.
Enjoy.
Beware of the Goldfish in the tulip mines. The ONLY defence against them is smoking peanut butter sandwiches.
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 22/10/04 at 07:20 AM |
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I was given a recommendation to avoid synthetics for the first 500 miles or so - they're so good at their job that they stop old-fashioned
engines bedding in! As a result they'll burn oil for the rest of their running life.
Yes - Duckhams is green - it used to be a well-regarded general purpose oil, but it's quite old-fashioned now.
David
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Craig81
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| posted on 22/10/04 at 06:54 PM |
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Hi all,
Ive changed the oil to 15w40 (went and put it in before you guys recommended 20w50). I ran the engine again, and it still had 30 psi indicated. Now
however, i think my sender is K nackered as it now reads full scale with the igtion on and the engine not running. Ive Taken the wire off the sender,
when i put it to earth, the gauge returns to zero. ( the gaughe stays at full scale with the wire removed of sender)
The sender is fron ETB and has too contacts on it, one for the gauge and one for warning light. The warning light still works as it should!!!!
Any ideas
craig
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 23/10/04 at 04:44 PM |
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would be worth checking your oil pressure with a decent mechanical gauge, at least then you would know if the problem lies with the engine or with
your electrical gauge which are not the most reliable of instruments. used to have one you could have tried ,that someone borrowed and hasn't
returned. Rusty
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NS Dev
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| posted on 24/10/04 at 09:23 PM |
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I use Valvoline 20-50 in older high performance engines (basically anything without hydraulic cam followers, that's all the thinner oils are
for) and it's great stuff, just remember to change it lots, as it doesn't have any detergent properties, i.e. is what it says, a race oil
not a road oil!
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