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Author: Subject: Blacktop Zetec Inlet Plenum / Manifold
pekwah1

posted on 27/12/13 at 03:41 PM Reply With Quote
Blacktop Zetec Inlet Plenum / Manifold

Hi Guys,

I need to look at modifying or getting a new inlet for my Blacktop Zetec as the standard does not fit as you may see from this pic because of my chassis rails:



I have labelled some areas on the inlet on the following pic, i was hoping someone could explain/verify what i have labelled:



1. What is this pipe and connector for?
2. There is a small(ish) actuator or something connected here. What is it?
3. Why is the plenum so big and designed like this (might be a more long winded explanation)
4. Is this the Throttle Position Sensor?
5. I assume these are fuel in/out lines (top = in, bottom = return?)

Thanks in advance,
Andy

[Edited on 27/12/13 by pekwah1]

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Paul Turner

posted on 27/12/13 at 04:06 PM Reply With Quote
What you need is a set of these:




They clear the chassis rails with no issues and with careful setting up and a good exhaust you get 175 bhp on a healthy standard Blacktop instead of the factory 135 bhp.

And it is a Blacktop despite the Silvertop cam cover.

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pekwah1

posted on 27/12/13 at 04:09 PM Reply With Quote
What TBs are they?
I would love to do it, but i'm supposed to be doing a budget install with standard ECU as i have very little money to play with.

If i were to go the throttle body route, i'd need the TBs, manifold and an ECU to run it.

Realistically that's going to cost a fair bit..

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big_wasa

posted on 27/12/13 at 04:10 PM Reply With Quote
1) brake servo vacuum.
2) Idle control valve
3) Long primary inlets are good for torque
4) yep
5) yep

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big_wasa

posted on 27/12/13 at 04:12 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Paul Turner
What you need is a set of these:




They clear the chassis rails with no issues and with careful setting up and a good exhaust you get 175 bhp on a healthy standard Blacktop instead of the factory 135 bhp.

And it is a Blacktop despite the Silvertop cam cover.


They look like Jenveys

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pekwah1

posted on 27/12/13 at 04:13 PM Reply With Quote
Cheers wasa,

So what is the idle control valve actually doing inside the plenum?

Edit - and do i need it?

[Edited on 27/12/13 by pekwah1]

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big_wasa

posted on 27/12/13 at 04:31 PM Reply With Quote
re Iacv ,There are a few of the guys using the oem ecu that have done with out it. But I prefer it.

Its one of the extra things that will make it start and run like factory. It increases the idle for the cold start. If you connect the load sensors it would up the idle when you dip the clutch making it harder to stall. ect ect ect.

With out it you will have to crack open the throttle plate so it will give around <900 rpm when warm but then you will have to blip the throttle like a set of Webers when cold.

There are a few fans of the oem ecu but not many I would do a search and pm those who have done it and driven it.

Andy would be a good start.

The oem ecu is all relative and has a lot in common with the "Locost" roots of these cars. Can you have faster if you have deep pockets ? Of course you can..... Does that mean its no good ? well its good enough for millions of Mondeo's. If its not a race car is the extra 20bhp worth £2k. ???

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pekwah1

posted on 27/12/13 at 04:42 PM Reply With Quote
I agree mate, that's why i was going with the standard ECU also.
Did you make your inlet yourself? If you've got any info about it that you'd be happy to share it would help me out a lot as the standard one is definitely not going to fit in the car but i was planning to stick with the standard ECU

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big_wasa

posted on 27/12/13 at 04:52 PM Reply With Quote
The ecu just see's sensor values. You can use bike throttle bodies if you stick a maf on a plenum. ( you will get a flat spot due to sensor differences).

Mine was a heavily modified Ginetta / griffin manifold. Lots of info in posts but I don't have any in my archive.
As yours is a black top I would look at the Gbs / kitspares manifold for ideas. You basically cut the runners of yours and bolt on a plenum.



One bit of advice I can give is stay away from a manifold made by Pepper performance .

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big_wasa

posted on 27/12/13 at 05:10 PM Reply With Quote
If your wanting to go ultra budget with out making anything then the alloy up and over manifold from the early fiesta/escort has been used but means cutting the bonnet.

Standard 1800 mani could be had for £20 but a Ho from an Rs1800/ xr3i ect will cost you £££ avoid the 90 ps 1.6 mani the ports are tiny.




[img]https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcTN9CJFWp4PSx-d94CgpIPt8JibRDmy_dbBgCoHOi2wUpoipPljww[/img]

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Paul Turner

posted on 27/12/13 at 05:28 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by pekwah1
What TBs are they?



They are Jenveys but good results are possible using bike bodies and a bit of fettling. I used Jenveys because in the big scheme of things they only add a few hundred pound to the cost and work strait out of the box.

But whatever TB's you use you need an ECU and other parts.

Then don't forget the mapping. My ECU came with a map for my engine spec but it needed some tweeking. I did that myself with a wideband and saved good money.

But at the end of the day its worth every penny. Its sounds brilliant and the throttle response is instant with great power all the way form tickover to 7000 rpm. On a fast drive on god A and B road you never need to go above 4500 rpm.

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pekwah1

posted on 27/12/13 at 06:34 PM Reply With Quote
Thanks paul, at some point i will probably move to TBs if/when i decide i need a good power hike, until then i'm gonna stick with the standard injection.

I have just chopped my standard inlet so will have a play making a custom plenum and see how i go...

Thanks for the help as well wasa!

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turnipfarmer

posted on 27/12/13 at 08:27 PM Reply With Quote
This what I've got...

http://www.kitspares.co.uk/shop/item.php?product=8958

Works OK for me with a standard ecu

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pekwah1

posted on 27/12/13 at 08:30 PM Reply With Quote
yeh it's a pretty hefty price for some pipes and a metal box!
Going to bond something onto my chopped up standard inlet.

Are you running a idle control valve on yours and where is it?

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big_wasa

posted on 27/12/13 at 08:36 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by pekwah1
yeh it's a pretty hefty price for some pipes and a metal box!
Going to bond something onto my chopped up standard inlet.

Are you running a idle control valve on yours and where is it?




I wouldn't bond anything.

Cut your manifold up so you gave a sandwich plate with the injectors. you then need a bit of steel plate around 6mm thick. Four inlet runners, a bit of 4" tube. plate both end's.

Not my picture but still

Description
Description


[Edited on 27/12/13 by big_wasa]

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pekwah1

posted on 27/12/13 at 08:43 PM Reply With Quote
Why wouldn't you bond anything?
How else will i attach the sandwich plate to the tube?

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big_wasa

posted on 27/12/13 at 08:52 PM Reply With Quote
You "sandwich" it between the head and your new manifold and use two gaskets.
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pekwah1

posted on 27/12/13 at 09:01 PM Reply With Quote
Hmmm...
Slightly confused....
I don't see why i couldn't just chop the existing inlet, keeping the mounting flange and bolt this straight to the engine.
Then bond on some pipe blocked at one end onto the chopped down inlet.
Then mount the throttle body on the other end?

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big_wasa

posted on 27/12/13 at 09:31 PM Reply With Quote
Because not a lot sticks well to modern plastics. Even more so when you have a kg bouncing up and down on the end.

Get an air leak and you could melt a piston.

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turnipfarmer

posted on 27/12/13 at 09:56 PM Reply With Quote
Re the idle valve question - no - I'm not running one. Just a nyloc on the throttle stop to prevent the butterfly closing completely when your foot's off the gas.

I know others have done the same & the idle works just fine. Having said that though, mine's as lumpy as anything!

Pretty sure it's not the throttle stop. Has to be something else, but haven't sussed it yet.

(Any ideas, Warren?)

I'm no expert on plenums, but I understand that to work effectively they need to supply proper airflow to all cylinders.
It's a black art to me, but to give you an idea, I believe that the trumpets have to be raised off the plenum chamber floor. Shape and size are also issues that have to be taken into account.

The GBS one may seem a bit dear, but to me it was money well spent.

For the injector sandwich plate, you send them your inlet manifold. They cut off the last inch or so & then machine it flat.
(For a fee, of course!) PU sealant then bonds it to the plenum. (That's how they do it anyway!)

HTH

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daveb666

posted on 14/1/14 at 12:54 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by big_wasa
quote:
Originally posted by pekwah1
yeh it's a pretty hefty price for some pipes and a metal box!
Going to bond something onto my chopped up standard inlet.

Are you running a idle control valve on yours and where is it?




I wouldn't bond anything.

Cut your manifold up so you gave a sandwich plate with the injectors. you then need a bit of steel plate around 6mm thick. Four inlet runners, a bit of 4" tube. plate both end's.

Not my picture but still

Description
Description


[Edited on 27/12/13 by big_wasa]


Some better pictures of the old inlet on my car (improved by big_wasa I believe??)

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Zetec-High-Performance-Inlet-Plenum-Kit-Car-Silvertop-Blacktop-Duratec-/171155358643





2007bc Photography - Commercial and Wedding Photographer based in West Yorkshire

http://www.2007bc.co.uk / http://www.huddersfieldcommercialphotographer.co.uk

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pekwah1

posted on 14/1/14 at 04:50 PM Reply With Quote
Nice one cheers, i've actually sourced one from someone on the forum (can't remember the user name) but looks like i'm sorted! Just need some engine mounts now!
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big_wasa

posted on 14/1/14 at 05:21 PM Reply With Quote
I cant believe that's all it made the powder coating and filter cost more than that....
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