villagehoppa
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posted on 23/6/15 at 07:10 AM |
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Can someone explain what Omex/throttle bodies are etc etc!!??
Hi All,
New to this site so hello... Please can someone explain what an omex system is all about. I'm new to all this stuff and would love a very
black and white explanation of what it does if that is ok? Does an Omex system replace a factory fitted ecu or is it used in conjunction with it?
Say I was going to use a Ford engine would I use the ecu that it comes with or replace it with this unit? I've heard about throttle bodies too
so wondering what the deal is with these too! It is all very new to me so trying to understand what is involved and what to buy for better power,
fuel economy etc etc, any help and explanation for a newbie would be fantastic please and most appreciated, basic idiot proof information would be
fantastic... Many thanks...
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loggyboy
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posted on 23/6/15 at 07:32 AM |
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From google:
In fuel injected engines, the throttle body is the part of the air intake system that controls the amount of air flowing into the engine, in
response to driver accelerator pedal input in the main.
As for omex, there are various versions types, but basically it is a an aftermarket ECU that works with things like throttle bodies.
Mistral Motorsport
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ali f27
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posted on 23/6/15 at 07:36 AM |
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Hi Omex is the trade name of a company that make stand alone ecu systems there are a number of other companys that do the same they replace factory
ecus and are reprogrammable to alow tunning of your engine set up
A throttle boddie is a tube that air flows through into your engine with a means to control how much air flows through the tube at any given time
these are either a large single one connected to all cylinders or smaller ones on each cylinder.
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jeffw
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posted on 23/6/15 at 08:21 AM |
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http://omextechnology.co.uk/index.html
Omex design and manufacture aftermarket ECUs (they also do ECUs for small manufactures like Morgan), they design and manufacture throttle bodies and
other car electronics. They also modify and supply Ford engines (Zetec/Duratec) and the Mazda variant of the Duratec.
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cliftyhanger
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posted on 23/6/15 at 08:30 AM |
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The original ecu with an engine has a few compromises built in. It will allow for variation in fuels and also to be a "safe" setup. And
generally they work with a single throttle body that allows air in to all cylinders via a single butterfly. All very good and reliable etc.
If you swap to an aftermarket ECU (eg omex) it is setup by you or your chosen tuner to hopefully give max performance. hey can be used with a single
throttle body like the original setup, or individual TB's. Individual will give a bit more power.
In real world terms, with identical air filtration and exhaust, the aftermarket setup will give maybe 10% more power. However, on the road where you
require flexibility and mid range torque, the original setup may even be better (tin hat now on)
I have a dunnell setup, and for most stuff the throttle bodies are a bit too big, robbing me of mid range torque and hitting fuel economy. However, at
5000+rpm it is rather good.......
Follow Big Wasa's guide on here and use the original, save about £1k and then decide once car on road would be my suggestion. Of course, depth
of pocket may vary!
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villagehoppa
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posted on 23/6/15 at 10:01 AM |
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That's fantastic, thanks for all your reply's , a lot clearer now.. So I can use the ecu that came with the engine to start with and
update to something a bit more punchy later on once I am up and running.... Thanks again all..
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cliftyhanger
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posted on 23/6/15 at 11:16 AM |
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Do read up on what needs to be done to get the std ecu working. It is not quite plug and play............
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James
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posted on 23/6/15 at 10:57 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by villagehoppa
That's fantastic, thanks for all your reply's , a lot clearer now.. So I can use the ecu that came with the engine to start with and
update to something a bit more punchy later on once I am up and running.... Thanks again all..
It's usually no where near as simple as that!
Think of all the bits on a tintop that *may* be linked to the ECU that won't be on your car: locks, gearbox, diff, alarms, immobiliser, all
these things may, or may not need to be removed or replicated or included in the new car to make the ECU work properly.
Aftermarket ECUs are pricey but they don't half help cut out the crap!
Cheers,
James
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"The fight is won or lost far away from witnesses, behind the lines, in the gym and out there on the road, long before I dance under those lights."
- Muhammad Ali
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villagehoppa
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posted on 24/6/15 at 06:43 AM |
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Thanks for that, Once I have the engine sorted I think I will get in the services of someone who know's what they are doing?!! I understand
them but getting my head around a loom and wires definitely messes with my mind!!! Thanks again all, will let you know of my progress...
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big_wasa
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posted on 27/6/15 at 10:56 AM |
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quote: Originally posted by James
quote: Originally posted by villagehoppa
That's fantastic, thanks for all your reply's , a lot clearer now.. So I can use the ecu that came with the engine to start with and
update to something a bit more punchy later on once I am up and running.... Thanks again all..
It's usually no where near as simple as that!
Think of all the bits on a tintop that *may* be linked to the ECU that won't be on your car: locks, gearbox, diff, alarms, immobiliser, all
these things may, or may not need to be removed or replicated or included in the new car to make the ECU work properly.
Aftermarket ECUs are pricey but they don't half help cut out the crap!
Cheers,
James
Early manual Fords are pretty good and the engine has little integration to the car. Ie the engine has an ecu the body has an ecu the airbags have an
ecu and so on.
As for plug and play, well you cut the loom up and put it back together you plug it in and then play and it WILL pass Iva or an mot provided you have
the relevant parts. Life is all about compromise. Will you drive it balls to the wall every where or a Sunday afternoon blaster.
Power costs money, lots of money.
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