StuartBJ
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| posted on 6/3/16 at 04:10 PM |
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AGM and the WLR is back
Gents,
For all of you who wanted to build or are currently building an AGM WLR you are now in luck as AGM has been bought out and is under new management.
http://www.agmsportscarsltd.co.uk
Contact me for further details
[Edited on 6/3/16 by StuartBJ]
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Ugg10
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| posted on 6/3/16 at 05:34 PM |
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Batman goes to le mans! Would love one of these with an ls1 in it! Good luck with the new venture.
[Edited on 6/3/16 by Ugg10]
[Edited on 6/3/16 by Ugg10]
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1968 Ford Anglia 105e, 1.7 Zetec SE, Mk2 Escort Workd Cup front end, 5 link rear
Build Blog - http://Anglia1968.weebly.com
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JacksAvon
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| posted on 6/3/16 at 08:59 PM |
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Good luck.
It was always to good looking a car to fade away
The sickness started in 2001 with a Robin Hood 3A, Prelit Westy,Tiger Cub, Tiger Avon, Tiger R6, 16v Mini, Sylva Fury Fireblade, Westfield Sei,
Mallock Mk11, Fireblade Locost, Tiger Avon, Procomp LA Gold, Mk26 Mallock...........and now a Mk18 Mallock.....LR750, Vandiemen FX02
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StuartBJ
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| posted on 6/3/16 at 09:15 PM |
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Thanks guys. We will try to do it justice  We already have our premises and a demo car in progress. Just looking for a good fibreglass company or to
train some staff in house..... Suggestions welcome.
We've got every mould we know of for the WLR even
- the gull wing moulds
- windscreen moulds
- both the left and right hand dash boards moulds
Spares for cars won't be a problem.
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Ugg10
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| posted on 7/3/16 at 08:55 AM |
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Is going to a stock/preferred engine ?
I know a number were made with cossy engines (now becoming harder to find), I think there was one with a ford 302. I guess BMW engines would be
easiest to source and have everything from i4 through to v12 but I guess M3 straight 6 would be best suited. However, my choice would be the TVR AJP8
engine in this giving it the race bred engine note to suit the looks.
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1968 Ford Anglia 105e, 1.7 Zetec SE, Mk2 Escort Workd Cup front end, 5 link rear
Build Blog - http://Anglia1968.weebly.com
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nick205
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| posted on 7/3/16 at 03:02 PM |
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Great looking car - best of luck with it!
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PeterV
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| posted on 7/3/16 at 07:35 PM |
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It's good to be back in "current model" status  Good Luck
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sandhu
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| posted on 15/6/16 at 06:25 PM |
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suspension set up and ride height
can you tel the suspension set camber, toe, ride height for cosworth agm wlr
thanks
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PeterV
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| posted on 16/6/16 at 10:32 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by sandhu
can you tel the suspension set camber, toe, ride height for cosworth agm wlr
thanks
Here is the set up I'm happy with after 3 years road and track testing...
Camber 0.75 Degrees Negative both sides
Caster 3.25 positive (this takes some work because its not adjustable without shims and changes to the mounts)
Ride height for road (and ferry crossing) use 90mm from bottom of front splitter to road surface. I found making the rear end ride height 10mm higher
than the front gives the bodywork a greater angle of attack and helps with high speed steering stability.
Suspension damping 5 clicks front and 8 at the rear. But this may depend on tire pressure choice, I run slightly lower pressures for a slightly more
forgiving ride. Don't go to low though coz the bodywork and aeros do create down force and at high speed (100MPH+) lower pressures will start to
move around.
Watch out for the rear end toe as the chassis is not guaranteed to be square. I started with a horrible squirmy 2.75 degrees toe in at the rear with
odd +1 camber near side and -0.5 on the off side. Shimmed and adjusted the whole rear to neutral 0 toe and 0 camber which made violent braking far
more stable and it stopped hard acceleration (@ anything above 300BHP) rear wheel steering the car. At around 400BHP from a standing start I could
swap ends and find myself gazing into the eyes of shocked on coming drivers. So pay close attention to the rear end set up!
Also make sure you have steel front camber adjusters, as the alloy ones will sheer eventually. My nearside sheared whilst hounding a Porsche through
some rough country lanes. Exciting!  New pants and steel adjusters were ordered immediately along with sets of half nuts to use as lock nuts.
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Dick Axtell
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| posted on 16/6/16 at 03:11 PM |
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Quote -"At around 400BHP from a standing start I could swap ends and find myself gazing into the eyes of shocked on coming drivers. So pay
close attention to the rear end set up!". - Unquote.
I recall an I. Mech. E. paper presented by Harry Grylls (RR Tech Director), entitled - "Traction vs Stability". Might be worth a read.
Work-in-Progress: Changed to Zetec + T9. Still trying!!
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sandhu
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| posted on 16/6/16 at 06:06 PM |
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thanks
thanks for the relpy
i will try setting
as i still have not had sump lowered , think i ll make it over speed humps ?
what tyre presssures would suit track /road ?
still waiting for date with them !!!
thanks again
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PeterV
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| posted on 20/6/16 at 11:09 AM |
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Tack PSI is down to you and the track. Swapping to slicks changes everything.
For the road my set up is
Tire size---------------------Wheel Size----------------------PSI------- Wheel Spacer
225/40/R18 92W---- 8 x 18 PCD is 4 x 108 offset 35----28 Front-------- 0mm
245/40/R18 92W---- 8 x 18 PCD is 4 x 108 offset 38----30 Rear---------25mm
Speed rating of tires is little over spec as my car is absolutely maxed out at 162MPH so could get away with ZR rating.
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