Hello guys, I have been toying with the idea of fitting a 1.8t into my kit car but I’ve been thinking about a hayabusa engine,
I would be buying the whole bike as the donor, I was wondering if anyone who has done this can give me any heads up to the problems I’m going to
encounter.
I have a Haynes roadster with a pinto currently.
I was also wondering how to go about making some mounts, and how to get from the gearbox to the diff , current one being Sierra running gear.
Thanks!
Not too sure, I’ve seen some solid brackets made on the Internet, how much would a cradle cost me?
And also with mounting you aboviously get the gearbox in-line with the prop? That’s why the engines are so offset right?
That’s my only worry really is mounting.
Mine was solid mount go the engine into position with the sprocket adapter(most have the same amount of splines) in place and made sure it was in line
to the diff. Made up the cradle with the engine as far back as possible, get your engine on the same angle as it was in the bike.
You will need to remove/bypass the wiring for the side stand, drop switch.
Think about it, think about it again and then do it.
You don't want the prop adapter directly in line with the diff,universal joints need to operate on slight angles, if you run them straight they
will soon knacker up
In a seven type BEC you want the engine as far forward as possible,as they are very light on the front end.
Obvs need to take into consideration where the exhaust manifold will be,for clearance from the wheels on full lock
Have a read up on the oil system for a Busa in a car too,ideally you want a dry sump system to be as safe as possible,but if for road use people get
away with swinging pick ups and modified wet sump.
Not 100% sure on a busa, but most bike engine standard sumps need replacing with a BEC one.
You need to get the height of the engine as close to bonnet as possible,to give yourself as much ground clearance as possible between sump and road, a
dry sump helps here as it can be much smaller and flat.
Okay sweet cheers bud, might skip on the dry sump until abit later as they seem to be around 1k+
Just need to finish the old mans little Landy project then out with the pinto!
Thanks for the pointers. !
Just after a toy to be honest, something that’s loud and fast, not going to do many miles.
Plan is for some track days, always tinkering so reliability isn’t key.
Photo Archive
Building: Robin Hood series 3 + new project old Fury
posted on 5/9/18 at 06:41 PM
Andy Bates (AB Perfomance) can give you the heads up in clutch modifications required
Updated springs mainly but may need a change of plates and drive discs
I eat to survive
I drink to forget
I breath to pi55 my ex wife off (and now my ex partner)
Hello, another question, I know obviously the bike engine are hard mounted would it be beneficial to add some rubber mounts or bushing to my home made
engine cradle?
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Building: Hatred of Loughborough's Speed Humps
posted on 11/9/18 at 08:59 AM
Westfield do things with a simple top frame, bolted to each corner of the engine bay, with the centre dropping down a bracket to the crankcase. Bottom
frame is less complex, a planar triangle, simply supporting the lower crankcase. It works.
Picture is my GSXR1000 installation in a Westfield. The car has gone, but the engine and installation kit (ECU, exhaust, etc.) largely remain.
It's potentially available if you're interested, but not cheaply, plenty of 'that sort of stuff' out there.
I had a ZX9R E in mine, cracking engine and only a few hundred quid, not thousands.
I swapped it for a Jag 3litre V6. love the Jag engine, miss the bike engine
Loads of photos in my archive
cheers guys, I’ve already got the bike I want in mind, just trying to get my head around mounting it, as far as your pictures go it seems to be box
section running in a square to each corner like you said, and then a triangle pointing down towards the floor and then across to the bottom of the
chassis? I’ll try draw something out later
Thanks
