DANMAN
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| posted on 7/11/18 at 11:25 AM |
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CBR1000 Misfire
Hi everyone,
I am having a weird issue where my engine idles ok and if you give it some revs in neutral it will rev freely to say 6k ok once but if you try to rev
it again straight away it misfires and farts unless you let it settle for about thirty seconds. It sounds like a fueling issue but the fuel system
seems fine.
What I have checked so far (also using the CBR1000 workshop manual):
- Fuel pump and pressure regulator are fine and within spec
- Fuel pump filter is fine as is the additional inline filter which is new and flow direction is correct
- Fuel lines are new and right size
- Tank breather is fine and not blocked
- Tested fuel flow and fuel pressure and both are within factory spec
- New MAP sensor (factory one was reading out of spec)
- New spark plugs
- New fuel
- CMP & CKP sensors tested fine and within spec
- Injectors (all 8) have been flow tested and are all fine
- No intake air leaks
- HISS is bypassed and checks ok
- Speed sensor tests fine and within spec
- Exhaust servo motor is still connected and tests fine
- ECT Sensor is fine
- IAC Sync is fine
- Vacuum lines are fine
Video of issue here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sahP59tS3VM
This stupid problem has got me stumped.
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AdamR20
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| posted on 7/11/18 at 01:01 PM |
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What happens if you put it in gear (clutch in)? Wondering if there may be some sort of over rev protection?
AFAIK the neutral mapping is different to in-gear mapping.
[Edited on 7/11/18 by AdamR20]
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davspeed
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| posted on 8/11/18 at 09:33 AM |
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It's a bit difficult to hear it properly from the clip but I have put a similar engine (2007) in my striker and don't have that problem.
My problem is light throttle running is very jerky like it needs the choke on in old carbed cars, a dyno session will hopefully sort that.
How have you done your air intake as I see you have a foam filter.
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DANMAN
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| posted on 8/11/18 at 10:04 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by AdamR20
What happens if you put it in gear (clutch in)? Wondering if there may be some sort of over rev protection?
AFAIK the neutral mapping is different to in-gear mapping.
[Edited on 7/11/18 by AdamR20]
I have tried driving it and it dies and runs like a dog once there is any load on the engine, I can move it up and down the driveway if I keep the
revs under about 2500rpm but outside of that it dies like it is running out of fuel.
Interesting point though about the idle maps being different, I would like to try and get confirmation on this as the neutral wire does feed into the
ECU via the clutch diode when the engine is in the bike. I bypassed the clutch diode, side stand switch, etc as they obviously weren't required
but I figured the input to the ECU was only there to stop it from starting without the clutch pulled in, side stand up or the engine in neutral.
Has anyone got a car edited version of a CBR1000 wiring diagram? I just worked through the harness myself culling and bypassing the stuff that
wasn't required but maybe I ar$ed something up?
[Edited on 8/11/18 by DANMAN]
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DANMAN
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| posted on 8/11/18 at 10:20 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by davspeed
It's a bit difficult to hear it properly from the clip but I have put a similar engine (2007) in my striker and don't have that problem.
My problem is light throttle running is very jerky like it needs the choke on in old carbed cars, a dyno session will hopefully sort that.
How have you done your air intake as I see you have a foam filter.
There was no way I was going to fit my engine under the bonnet with the factory air box and throttle bodies in the normal location so I have to lay
them over:
https://i.imgur.com/lwGQdBq.jpg
This obviously increased the intake runner length from the tip of the trumpets to the back of the valves so to get it as close to factory as I could I
had to make a new set of shorter trumpets and secondary injector bracket set up. I have kept the distance and angle of the secondary injectors from
the trumpet mouths the same as factory dimensions:
https://i.imgur.com/TMLZStZ.jpg
I then built a new air box to encompass all of this with the same volume as the factory airbox (yes I sealed off the factory air box with various
plates so I could fill it with water to find the total volume):
https://i.imgur.com/F9hkOF0.jpg
There are no intake air leaks anywhere that I could find.
[Edited on 8/11/18 by DANMAN]
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AdamR20
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| posted on 8/11/18 at 10:44 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by DANMAN
Interesting point though about the idle maps being different, I would like to try and get confirmation on this as the neutral wire does feed into the
ECU via the clutch diode when the engine is in the bike. I bypassed the clutch diode, side stand switch, etc as they obviously weren't required
but I figured the input to the ECU was only there to stop it from starting without the clutch pulled in, side stand up or the engine in neutral.
Has anyone got a car edited version of a CBR1000 wiring diagram? I just worked through the harness myself culling and bypassing the stuff that
wasn't required but maybe I ar$ed something up?
[Edited on 8/11/18 by DANMAN]
I have the Woolich Racing software and there is a different neutral map (and different maps per gear and per cylinder too!).
Don't have an edited car loom but have standard Honda diagram and a 'guide' for what to chop out if any use?
[Edited on 8/11/18 by AdamR20]
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jossey
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| posted on 8/11/18 at 01:57 PM |
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Crank position sensor
Thanks
David Johnson
Building my tiger avon slowly but surely.
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davspeed
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| posted on 8/11/18 at 03:00 PM |
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Interesting way of doing it, I tried the original air box on my striker and it was worse than an old school hot rod with a massive blower on it so did
it like in the pic below. it may not be perfect but at least I can see where i'm going.
 2018092
7_152409 by david.vangils, on Flickr
[Edited on 8/11/18 by davspeed]
[Edited on 8/11/18 by davspeed]
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davspeed
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| posted on 8/11/18 at 03:08 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by AdamR20
I have the Woolich Racing software.
[Edited on 8/11/18 by AdamR20]
How do you find the woolich racing stuff? I have only become aware of it in the last couple of weeks I have PC5 but woolich sounds more comprehensive.
Are there any four wheel dynos that use it only seen bike dynos for it.
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Memphis Twin
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| posted on 12/2/19 at 09:46 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by davspeed
Interesting way of doing it, I tried the original air box on my striker and it was worse than an old school hot rod with a massive blower on it so did
it like in the pic below. it may not be perfect but at least I can see where i'm going.
2018092
7_152409 by david.vangils, on Flickr
[Edited on 8/11/18 by davspeed]
[Edited on 8/11/18 by davspeed]
Hello Dave. I love what you've achieved with the old Striker. Look's very purposeful, and it should be an absolute weapon on track!
Cheers Chris (Matlock Bath)
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jossey
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| posted on 13/2/19 at 12:14 PM |
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I had huge issues with airbox changing on mine.
Out of interest can you put the standard airbox on to test it and see how it runs?
Thanks
David Johnson
Building my tiger avon slowly but surely.
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DANMAN
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| posted on 18/2/19 at 10:08 AM |
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Oki doki, so a bit of an update.
Basically to get the engine to fit under the bonnet I have had to lay the throttle bodies over on an angle (there are legalities here in Australia
about things hanging out of bonnets) and went to a lot of trouble to keep the factory distance and angle relationship between the top of the trumpets
and the secondary injectors the same as factory but also needed to shorten the trumpets (make new ones from scratch) so the total inlet length was as
close to factory as possible due to the fact that I had increased the inlet tract. So the throttle bodies and new air box looked like this:
https://i.imgur.com/NfLgM9L.jpg
After a lot of fault finding and thinking it may have been air leaks around the intake pipes causing the issue I think the problem was actually the
primary injector angle and the new intake pipes. I believe the fuel from the injectors was hitting the intake pipe walls and dribbling into the engine
rather than being properly atomised.
Pulling everything apart and putting the throttle bodies directly on to the factory head mounts cleared the misfire issues when free revving so I had
to figure out another way to get everything under the bonnet with the throttle bodies in their factory location (if it wasn't for the secondary
injectors none of this would have been an issue).
After making a new air box, some screwing around with intake piping and a bit of mucking around on the lathe I managed to get the new setup under the
bonnet but it is a bloody tight squeeze with only 3mm of clearance:
https://i.imgur.com/0m6kwQ1.jpg
Took the car for a spin yesterday and everything seems to be running fine with the exception of a far touchier throttle and a lot more engine braking
than the 919 engine I had in there before.
[Edited on 18/2/19 by DANMAN]
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AdamR20
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| posted on 19/2/19 at 07:37 AM |
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Glad you got sorted with a nice solution, and thanks for updating the thread!
I'll definitely be keeping the standar airbox then, all that farting about seems like quite an effort
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