Mr Whippy
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| posted on 11/8/21 at 10:38 AM |
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Rollcage fitted to a 2B
Hi,
Has anyone managed to fit a roll cage to a Robin Hood 2B? It has the standard bar and braces but needs a front cage to go onto this, along with
external side bars. Not for track use. Any ideas or suggestions, the cheaper the better. I have emailed GBS for sizes of the Zero one they sell or if
they'd sell a part cage kit, but not got a response yet.
Thanks Scott
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nick205
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| posted on 11/8/21 at 01:51 PM |
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No - the Indy I built had a welded on roll hoop. If builing again I'd favour a cage myself. Having since been in a van crash where we went on
the roof it seems a sensible approach.
Are you wanting to weld in or bolt in?
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INDY BIRD
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| posted on 11/8/21 at 01:55 PM |
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Any good
http://www.mksportscars.com/mk-indy-front-roll-cage-internal-front-hoop-and-overhead-bars-only.html
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Mr Whippy
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| posted on 11/8/21 at 04:24 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by nick205
No - the Indy I built had a welded on roll hoop. If builing again I'd favour a cage myself. Having since been in a van crash where we went on
the roof it seems a sensible approach.
Are you wanting to weld in or bolt in?
I'm intending to weld the cage directly to the existing rear hoop and the round tube of the chassis. Tbh open tops without a cage scare me now
as there's so many crash scenarios a simple hoop will offer zero protection and I consider side bars vital too. Modern cars are heavy as hell
and built like tanks compared to a 7.
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Mr Whippy
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| posted on 11/8/21 at 04:25 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by INDY BIRD
Any good
http://www.mksportscars.com/mk-indy-front-roll-cage-internal-front-hoop-and-overhead-bars-only.html
Thanks, they work out much the same as GBS, I'll send them an email, see if they'll provide dimensions.
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Sanzomat
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| posted on 11/8/21 at 05:22 PM |
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tube benders
Not used them myself but a few people have recommended these guys. Maybe worth a call
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nick205
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| posted on 11/8/21 at 09:15 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Mr Whippy
quote:
Originally posted by nick205
No - the Indy I built had a welded on roll hoop. If builing again I'd favour a cage myself. Having since been in a van crash where we went on
the roof it seems a sensible approach.
Are you wanting to weld in or bolt in?
I'm intending to weld the cage directly to the existing rear hoop and the round tube of the chassis. Tbh open tops without a cage scare me now
as there's so many crash scenarios a simple hoop will offer zero protection and I consider side bars vital too. Modern cars are heavy as hell
and built like tanks compared to a 7.
Fully agree, going upside down in a vehicle is scary as hell. As you say modern production cars are so well designed and tested to cope with it that
occupants often survive. 7 type cars with a single roll bar are a different ball game.
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perksy
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| posted on 11/8/21 at 09:44 PM |
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Saw a photo of a westfield once that had turned over with the standard single hoop rollbar and it just flattened (I believe the driver was seriously
injured)
A mate turned his over with the braced 'RAC' type rollbar and he got out with just a couple of scratches...
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CosKev3
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| posted on 11/8/21 at 10:15 PM |
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As above Tube Benders are a great price and do a good job
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nick205
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| posted on 12/8/21 at 05:43 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by perksy
Saw a photo of a westfield once that had turned over with the standard single hoop rollbar and it just flattened (I believe the driver was seriously
injured)
A mate turned his over with the braced 'RAC' type rollbar and he got out with just a couple of scratches...
Pretty much says it really - get a cage not a hoop!
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SJ
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| posted on 12/8/21 at 08:05 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by nick205
quote:
Originally posted by perksy
Saw a photo of a westfield once that had turned over with the standard single hoop rollbar and it just flattened (I believe the driver was seriously
injured)
A mate turned his over with the braced 'RAC' type rollbar and he got out with just a couple of scratches...
Pretty much says it really - get a cage not a hoop!
Need to get a cage on mine as it just has an un-braced hoop.
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nick205
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| posted on 12/8/21 at 08:15 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by SJ
quote:
Originally posted by nick205
quote:
Originally posted by perksy
Saw a photo of a westfield once that had turned over with the standard single hoop rollbar and it just flattened (I believe the driver was seriously
injured)
A mate turned his over with the braced 'RAC' type rollbar and he got out with just a couple of scratches...
Pretty much says it really - get a cage not a hoop!
Need to get a cage on mine as it just has an un-braced hoop.
An unbraced hoop is what I had on my MK Indy and as said if building again I'd go for a cage.
My MK Indy with unbraced hoop:
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Sanzomat
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| posted on 12/8/21 at 08:48 AM |
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In terms of roll over protection, a hoop with no braces is better than nothing but not much. Without any bracing it is quite likely to bend. Adding in
rear stays and a diagonal will make it much stronger (obviously depending on what it is mounted to - have seen rear stays mounted back to just the top
rear frame so no strength at all). As long as the hoop is tall enough the hoop/rear stays/diagonal brace should do everything you need in a roll over.
Won't help you much from a side impact though. A full cage also helps if another car tries to park on top of you as is sometimes the case in
racing.
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Sanzomat
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| posted on 12/8/21 at 09:37 AM |
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Thinking about this some more. If the intention is for additional protection for road use then there is another side to a roll cage that is often
forgotten. A roll cage for motorsport is part of a safety system that includes a helmet and a harness. A full cage can easily put some unyielding
metal objects in places where a head can collide with them. The kinds of road accidents that would have your head on a trajectory where it could hit a
front hoop or roof bars is probably far more likely than one that would involve you turning over. So, unless you wear a helmet for road driving and
have your harness pulled super tight I wonder if a full cage actually creates more risks than it protects you from for road use? I've heard,
albeit not first hand, that there have been fatalities from accidents in tin tops fitted with cages due head/cage impacts and this is why insurers
increase premiums for road cars with cages, not because they think people who fit cages are more likely to drive like idiots (although the latter is
probably true too). Just a thought...
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nick205
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| posted on 12/8/21 at 11:01 AM |
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Sanzomat - interesting thinking.
I don't have experience of road cars with cages, not something I've done. Harness wise I'd opt for a 5 point harness to prevent
"submarining".
For me I wore a helmet when driving - I didn't have a full screen so wanted to protect from stones and insects - it also helped with wind noise.
Roll bar/cage height certainly has to be right to clear the driver/passenger and minimise the chance on contact. Many roll bars you see are simply
too low, leaving the occupants heads higher!
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Mr Whippy
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| posted on 12/8/21 at 12:09 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Sanzomat
tube benders
Not used them myself but a few people have recommended these guys. Maybe worth a call
Thanks for that link, I did not know about them.
It's a good point about whacking your head off the cage, however in a 7 your really strapped in and the cages tend to be quite far from you
compared to a tin top. However a helmet in a car with no windscreen is a very good idea anyway to help protect you from stones, grit and bee's
 I have my old motorbike one still.
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