Staple balls
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| posted on 19/5/05 at 08:08 AM |
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Reasons for brakes not bleeding?
Well, i'm going utterly mental here, i've spent many, many hours bleeding these brakes
(all sierra hardware, MK hoses and copper lines)
every time i think each line is done (and am damn sure it is) it's not.
i can only assume air is getting in somewhere, does anyone have any suggestions?
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shortie
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| posted on 19/5/05 at 08:49 AM |
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Had exactly the same problem, if you haven't already then turn the rear calipers upide down and you will bleed the system fine!!
Rich.
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Staple balls
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| posted on 19/5/05 at 08:50 AM |
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unfortunately, it's not that, using drums on the back 
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ChrisGamlin
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| posted on 19/5/05 at 09:22 AM |
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Try wedging the pedal down overnight then bleeding them, having the master cylinder pressed down helps the air bleed back out of the system so Im
told.
Also have you got any high spots or areas where air might accumulate (inline brake switch etc)? If so then you might need to reposition those to get
it all out.
Have you tried a pressurised Easibleed type kit, screws onto the reservoir with the other end attached to an inflated tyre and forces the fluid
through better.
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mookaloid
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| posted on 19/5/05 at 09:26 AM |
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I would check all the seals for leaks. Is the master cylinder new? Has it been apart and rebuilt incorrectly?
Are there any high spots in the pipework eg for the brake light switch or a balancing valve which could trap air?
Just a few thoughts
Cheers
mark
oops should type quicker
[Edited on 19/5/05 by mookaloid]
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Staple balls
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| posted on 19/5/05 at 09:31 AM |
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I've not rebuilt the master cylinder yet, that might be the next move.
There's no real high points.
I'll try jamming the pedal down tonight.
As yet, no luck using an ezi-bleed or normal methods.
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britishtrident
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| posted on 19/5/05 at 10:33 AM |
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If it is a Teves (ATE) mastercylinder it is highly likely it is drawing air in on the return stroke, trying bleeding again but using a very slow
return stroke and making sure the nipple is properly open. Often with a used Teves cylinder sometimes pressure bleeding is all that will work because
the posative presure in the resevoir keeps the seals expanded..
[Edited on 19/5/05 by britishtrident]
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Dusty
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| posted on 19/5/05 at 10:53 AM |
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Go round all the cylinders and check the bleed nipple is at the top. Easy to fit the front calipers an the wrong sides leaving the nipples on the
bottom.
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Staple balls
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| posted on 19/5/05 at 10:55 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Dusty
Go round all the cylinders and check the bleed nipple is at the top. Easy to fit the front calipers an the wrong sides leaving the nipples on the
bottom.
well bugger me.
just had a looksee, that might be it. 
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Staple balls
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| posted on 19/5/05 at 12:06 PM |
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haha.
that fixed it, they were on upside down, bled in about 5 minutes
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ditchlewis
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| posted on 20/5/05 at 07:04 AM |
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DoHHHH
I have had the same problem for months, and i was going insane!!!! even my wifes brother in law who is a mechanic for Ferrari never spotted that
one!!!!!!
many thanks for saving my sanity.
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pmc_3
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| posted on 20/5/05 at 07:16 AM |
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I had exactly the same problem, really annoying but nice and easy to fix
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 20/5/05 at 07:19 AM |
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I had a different problem - bought a pair of recon calipers and they were both left-handers! Took a while in my ignorance to work that one out...
... took one back and changed it.
David
[Edited on 20/5/05 by David Jenkins]
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DarrenW
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| posted on 20/5/05 at 10:09 AM |
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So the rule of thumb then is to make sure the bleed nipples are at the top???
Thanks for the tip guys. Ive just turned round the back cylinders so it looks like ive done the right thing.
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saigonij
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| posted on 20/5/05 at 04:46 PM |
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yep. make sure that teh bleed nipples are at the top when bleeding calipers.
so in case of the rears ( thouse who are running rear discs with sierra calipers ) take the calipers off and blocking the pads with a block of wood,
hold the caliper with the bleed nipple facing up to remove all the air.
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