B@man
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| posted on 15/6/05 at 04:54 PM |
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Pinto Ignition Advance
Hi All,
More problems on the Pinto front, the new lump was running well, Its a Ex Sierra Injection 2.0 with a weber DGV carb and hall effect ignition system
(Dizzy may be a 1600 one ??)
I set the timing roughly by ear and it ran well. I then set the timing using a strobe to 12 degress BTDC (My "Guestimate must have been 25
degrees BTDC) now the engine is terrible when cold, as soon as you open the throttle it dies. When it warms up its not too bad but hesitates at approx
3500 RPM.
I'm thinking of trying approx 18 degrees BTDC @ idle and seeing if things improve any when cold.
Anyone else got any ideas ??
The Distributor is an unknown quantity it may be off a 1600 so I assume that it will have a different advance curve could this be the problem ??
P.S. FXR600 Fuel pump working great !!
[Edited on 15/6/05 by B@man]
Projects :
Robin Hood S7 - Deceased !
SSC Stylus 16v - Sold
Spartan Zetec conversion
Rickman 2.0 Petrol (New Engine) - Sold
Rickman 1800 TD (ongoing)
TVR 400SE (Nearly a kit ?)
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nick205
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| posted on 15/6/05 at 05:05 PM |
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Can't help, but I have the same set-up and need the same advice
I've just got my Pinto running by guessing the static timing and tweaking the distributor position. It idles ok, but hesitates when the
throttle is opened up and will stall if it's opened upo too quick. Once it's opened up it revs pretty cleanly through the range.
Nick
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ady8077
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| posted on 15/6/05 at 05:30 PM |
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Hi
I had the same prob on my pinto, but with twin webbers, turned out my idle jets were one size to small and it was a bit lean, the extra advance masked
the real problem
I've now got 12 deg's and am using a 1.6 dizzy
Adrian
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B@man
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| posted on 15/6/05 at 05:40 PM |
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Maybe it is a carb problem, the DGV is a mixture of Capri 2.0 internals and a carb body off a FIAT, I know the acel pump jet is too big.
I think I'll tweak the timing to get it usable then get it on the rollers once its run in a bit.
Thanks for the advice !
Projects :
Robin Hood S7 - Deceased !
SSC Stylus 16v - Sold
Spartan Zetec conversion
Rickman 2.0 Petrol (New Engine) - Sold
Rickman 1800 TD (ongoing)
TVR 400SE (Nearly a kit ?)
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DarrenW
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| posted on 16/6/05 at 08:10 AM |
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B@man, are you definitely using the hall effect set up (rectangular plug on dizzy body with 3 connections)?? I had to junk mine. The hall effect
system needs a crank sensor etc etc to work correctly. I have since fitted the basic electronic ignition amp and dizzy (dizzy has round plug on end of
a wire). I bought the dizzy and amp brand new from gms capri spares in Coxhoe for just under £100 for piece of mind.
Do a search and you will find 2 useful threads - one is mine and the other is James'. They link to each other - worth a read. Ill see if i can
find them as well and post link.
Alarm bells were ringing when you said hall effect. Is the lump a 2.0 pinto injection? Thats what mine is - dizzy set up was defo no good unless you
fit all of the complicated ECU and injection kit (which is messy and rarely fits under the bonnet).
Here it is - also links to James' thread (2 for the price of one - bargain). You will also see James' description of how he got the hall
effect dizzy to fire up the engine but it wouldnt rev - he had to face facts in the end, junk it and use the simpler earlier system.
If you buy a new amp, a good tip is that the plug for the other amp also fits it. ie you can use the hall effect amp plug on the new amp - the wires
may be wrong colours but the plug fits (this is the hardest bit to find).
[Edited on 16/6/05 by DarrenW]
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Peteff
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| posted on 16/6/05 at 08:43 AM |
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If it's from a 1600 it's more likely to be an inductive system using the motorcraft amp with 6 wires. It should work with your Pinto,
I'd look at your fuel once you get it idling alright.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 16/6/05 at 05:34 PM |
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May be worth checking out the auto advance mechanism, it's possible for the weights etc to stick if the distributor has been sitting around for
a while , should free off easily also check that the vacuum advance if fitted is working by applying vacuum at the connection for the hose
(sucking) the base plate should rotate .Your problems could be lack of advance.
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Ronin
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| posted on 16/6/05 at 08:48 PM |
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I'd go with peteff on this one, sounds more like a fuel problem. I had exactly the same on my crossflow with a 32DGV carb. Turned out to be
incorrectly set floats. Fine at lower revs but at 3000rpm it kept hesitating, as if suffering from fuel starvation.
Always try the simple things first is my new motto. I spent 3 weeks trying to cure this.
[Edited on 16/6/05 by Ronin]
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 16/6/05 at 08:55 PM |
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When you set the timing using a timing light did you disconnect the vacuum advance? it sounds very much like retarded ignition timing . Would also be
worth checking/adjusting the valve clearances as tight tappets can cause symptons very similar to carb problems.
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B@man
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| posted on 17/6/05 at 05:45 AM |
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Sorry It is the Bosch inductive system, with the 6 pin motorcraft amp.
Timing was done with vac advance disconnected & plugged.
Valve clearances are also OK as where set before the engine went in the car so you can actually get at the adjusters !
I've done a bit more fiddling and it is a fueling problem as both mechanical and vac advance are working fine, I suspect the Primary idle jet is
too small.
As the motor has only done 150 miles it will have to stay like this untill I get it run and and then I'll get it on the rollers. Its currently
set to 16 BTDC and is OK appart from when its cold, but leaving the choke out a bit to increase the idle is a work around.
Thanks for the advice !
Projects :
Robin Hood S7 - Deceased !
SSC Stylus 16v - Sold
Spartan Zetec conversion
Rickman 2.0 Petrol (New Engine) - Sold
Rickman 1800 TD (ongoing)
TVR 400SE (Nearly a kit ?)
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