Humbug
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posted on 22/10/05 at 09:26 PM |
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Speedo sensor fixing for live axle
Having passed my SVA last week having halved the speedo pulses, I now suspect that one of the magnets had fallen off... becaus enow the speedo
doesn't work at all and both magnets are missing!
I have an ETB electronic speedo and mounted the magnets on the rear of the prop flange, with the sensor on a small bracket bolted to the nearest
tunnel upright so as to avoid excessive vibration of the sensor if it was mounted on teh diff. However, it looks like the sensors and the magnets have
made contact nad ripped them off.
I don't know if the sensor still works - I suspect yes, because it occasionally shows something on the speedo, presumably when a bolt end
happens to pass in front of it - but I want to find a better solution.
I found this previous thread, but I am not sure of actual outcome: http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=22721
Someone out there must have an electronic speedo with a live axle - what were your solutions for fixing the sensor (with pics if possible)?
If I do want to fix a bracket to the diff, can the material be drilled and tapped for a bolt? I don't have access to a welder.
Can the speedo drive outlet on a Type 9 gearbox be used somehow?
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paulf
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posted on 22/10/05 at 09:37 PM |
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Have you enough adjustment to allow a single magnet to be fitted to a front wheel as with a cycle speedo?.I have a cycle unit and just epoxied a
magnet to the wheel rim and then attached the sensor to the mudguard stay.
If not maybe you would be better to attach something to the gearbox end of the prop where there is less movement.
Paul.
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Humbug
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posted on 22/10/05 at 09:46 PM |
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Thanks Paul
I did consider the gearbox end of the prop, but I think there would be more longitudinal movement there (in and out of the gearbox), rather than up
and down at the diff end?
Re cycle style unit - could I just use the existing sensor with a magnet on the wheel (or 2 magnets) or would I need a special cycle sensor (and would
that be likely work with the ETB speedo anyway?)? In any case I would have to extend the wiring (not a huge deal)
hmmm
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pajsh
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posted on 22/10/05 at 09:57 PM |
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I had the same problem and I think I've sorted it today (yet to road test it though).
I mounted mine half way down the tunnel hoping that there would be least movement in the middle but one got ripped off.
My solution was to make a Z bracket and bolt it onto one of the rear bolts of the gear level plate with the sensor pointing down. The magnets are
mounted on the end of the propshaft next to the UJ.
As the shaft and box will move together I'm hoping I've sorted it.
Thought I'd lost the magnet but found it stuck under the chassis tube
Wouldn't be too surprised if the sensor is goosed though as the magnets were well stuck with epoxy although it doesn't look damaged.
HTH
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Volvorsport
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posted on 22/10/05 at 10:01 PM |
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i have live axle , and the speedo is the std volvo one , which counts of a tone ring fixed to the diff carrier .
its proably a bit hard to dismantle the diff , and put some serations in the diff carrier etc .
it might be just as easy to convert to a front wheel sensor using a tone ring from an ABS car , if your using sierra front hubs .
www.dbsmotorsport.co.uk
getting dirty under a bus
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lsdweb
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posted on 22/10/05 at 10:41 PM |
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Epoxy a magnet to a front wheel and use a bike sensor , or get one from Maplins - about £3!
Wyn
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G.Man
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posted on 22/10/05 at 10:48 PM |
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you have mounted the sensor and pick up on a part fixed to the chassis and a part joint to the axle/gearbox? these move...
No surpises one was ripped off... if you mount to the diff flange, also use the diff for the sensor, that way they both move in unison
Opinions are like backsides..
Everyone has one, nobody wants to hear it and only other peoples stink!
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albertz
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posted on 23/10/05 at 06:47 AM |
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I have a live axle and used the VDO sensor. I mounted it on the prop close to the gearbox end with the bracket fixed to the chassis and have had no
problems so far (400 miles or so). I am not sure about your sensor, but the VDO one will work up to 20mm spacing (if i have remembered that
correctly).
Hope that helps.
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rusty nuts
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posted on 23/10/05 at 08:51 AM |
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Would have thought that mounting the sensor on the axle close to diff flange would have been more reliable.
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Humbug
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posted on 23/10/05 at 08:58 AM |
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What's the best way to mount the bracket on the diff? I can't weld and don't have a welder. What about the metal paste stuff (JB
Weld?)
Or will the diff take a tap so I could bolt something on?
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Aboardman
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posted on 23/10/05 at 09:28 AM |
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I fixed my etb sensor to the cortina diff i just drilled some small holes in the webs of the diff and made a small aluminium bracket and riverted it
to the diff.
and i fixed the magnets to the end of the prop shaft bolts.
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Peteff
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posted on 23/10/05 at 11:13 AM |
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You could glue the magnets to your brake drum and mount a sensor from a bracket like the shock absorber or trailing arm mount.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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Humbug
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posted on 23/10/05 at 05:46 PM |
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Thanks - I found some suitable webs on the Escort axle and bolted a bracket onto it... then f**ked the sensor by overtightening it!
Do you think I have to get a specific sensor from ETB or would a bike sensor do it? Just looked up on ETB's website and the sensor is £25.50
(probably + P&P)
quote: Originally posted by Aboardman
I fixed my etb sensor to the cortina diff i just drilled some small holes in the webs of the diff and made a small aluminium bracket and riverted it
to the diff.
and i fixed the magnets to the end of the prop shaft bolts.
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jmbillings
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posted on 26/10/05 at 09:30 PM |
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we fitted our magnets at the gearbox end - less movement up and down, and the "in-out" movement isn't actually very much at all. The
important thing was to put the sensor to one side of the prop, not above or below, as the movement of the suspension even at the gearbox end meant a
sensor died in action.
With it to one side its been fine for ages now.
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DarrenW
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posted on 27/10/05 at 08:19 AM |
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ETB say you have to use their sensor - but i guess they would wouldnt they!
Ref magnet position, i was advised to fit to diff input flange and definitely not the rear prop flange as this was difficult to control position wise.
Apparently the diff flange is more concentric and as the diff is mounted rigid to chassis, along with the sensor being mounted to bracket off the
chassis it is easier to control the 1mm gap.
Ref magnet mounting, ETB recommend starting with very clean mounting surface (i filed up 2 points 180 deg apart on the diff flange, then emeryed
them), mixing up some epoxy glue, dot some on the diff, stick magnet in (note orientation), then build up some more glue around to support them. I
smeared a small amount over the top as well.
HTH.
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