Blue Hurricane
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| posted on 8/1/06 at 07:22 PM |
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How To Fibreglass
Ok, I’m now tempted to have a crack a doing some fibreglass, to make a pedal box cover, and modify my rear arches. As I have never played with
fiberglass before, can any one recommend a comprehensive book, and recommend any online suppliers of a 'kit' of stuff which will be
required.
Cheers,
Blue H.....
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k33ts
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| posted on 8/1/06 at 07:25 PM |
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http://www.cfsnet.co.uk do the book and supplies very good service
[Edited on 8/1/06 by k33ts]
i followed how this guy did it http://locostbuilder.co.uk
[Edited on 8/1/06 by k33ts]
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Triton
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| posted on 8/1/06 at 07:28 PM |
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I second using CFS, they are good people and only just up the road from me....ring them and speak to Alex.
By the way not got the narrower wings sorted as yet.
My Daughter has taken over production of the damn fine Triton race seats and her contact email is emmatrs@live.co.uk.
www.tritonraceseats.com
www.hairyhedgehog.com
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steve_gus
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| posted on 8/1/06 at 07:32 PM |
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ive used CFS - no probs
There are GRP books out there but i didnt find any great ones.
On this site, Syd Bridge and Alanb have the knowledge on grp.
I have made a loada bits for my car and had to go throu all you are about to. I did a write up with pictures and a process description on my site.
Take a look and see if you think its worth all the mess (its very stinky and messy) and you will use more material than you expected.
Its quite rewarding when it turns out a part tho...
atb
steve
[Edited on 8/1/06 by steve_gus]
http://www.locostbuilder.co.uk
Just knock off the 's'!
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Hugh Paterson
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| posted on 8/1/06 at 07:50 PM |
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If its still available "performence GRP" is a good read, if your stuck I can copy most of my College notes from a few years ago. I build
boats, sportscars, kitcars and currently bus bodies with the stuff, if you want to discuss options you can get me most nights on MSN Messenger or
u2u.
regards
Shug.
[Edited on 8/1/06 by Hugh Paterson]
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02GF74
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| posted on 9/1/06 at 11:48 AM |
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I got their leaflet and ordered CSM, resin and gelcoat.
I am not clear about the gelcoat though.
I want to fill in a hole cut for a vent in a nose cone.
The way I pan to do it is a follows:
1. fix poyester sheet to the out side of the hole.
2. put some gelcoat in, about 3-4 mm; this will not stick to the sheet so I end up with a reasonably smooth finish
3. when the gelcoat goes tack, lay down some CSM, then resign more CSM untuil I have the right thickness.
My confusion is top coat and gelcoat and the addition of wax to stop stuff sticking - will my CSM stick to the gelcoat or do I put resin on the
glecoat followed by the CSM?
someone wil now say I should not have used gelcoat..... 
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Hugh Paterson
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| posted on 10/1/06 at 05:14 PM |
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You apply the Gelcoat and let it go "tacky" prior to the application of the resin, lick of resin layer of CSM...... lick of
resin....layer of CSM. Consolodate with a small paddle roller to squeeze the excess resin and air bubbles from the laminates. I would suggest u use a
small 2" brush and dont overload it with resin. Employ a stippling action to avoid breaking the CSM apart as you load it with the liquid
resin.
regards.
Shug
P.s. Dont forget to wax/pva the temporary surface prior to application of the Gelcoat.
[Edited on 10/1/06 by Hugh Paterson]
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chrisg
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| posted on 10/1/06 at 06:31 PM |
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Have a look at my GRP Guide at:-
Click this then "GRP"
It's all there.
Cheers
Chris
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lexi
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| posted on 11/1/06 at 12:47 AM |
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To be honest the only time I "play" with fibreglass now is if the part is extortionate or unobtainable. Horrible sticky stinking styrene
with strands everywhere in your garage and looking like a snowman when you buff and sand it
Resin and mat sticking to gloves and scissors it`s all as much fun as doing the backstroke in a hot tar boiler Enjoy yourself
Alex
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