cossey
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| posted on 7/8/06 at 08:35 PM |
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painting/coating ali panels
i want to coat the ali panels to keep them from looking tatty (they are already looking a bit scratched from clamping whilst triming them) before i
rivet them on. any ideas on whats best? (powdercoat/paint?)
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muzchap
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| posted on 7/8/06 at 09:21 PM |
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Hi mate - you need to do the following:
a) clean down with gunwash
b) ETCH primer
c) 2 pack paint
I've done it to my alloy side panels - look ace IMHO and much more resilient than bare alloy.
The ETCH primer is the important bit - as you need to 'key' into the alloy.
My experience with powder coating is limited, but I always see poor results - once it starts lifting = game over.
At least with paint, you can touch up ;-)
HTH
Murray
[Edited on 7/8/06 by muzchap]
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If you believe you're not crazy, whilst everybody is telling you, you are - then they are definitely wrong!
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cerbera
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| posted on 7/8/06 at 09:24 PM |
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Ive used this to cover the ali sides on my loco.
clicky
Was going to get them painted but got a roll of this for £25 so decided to give it a go. Its holding up very well.
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chrisf
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| posted on 7/8/06 at 11:20 PM |
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I used powder coat because it was cheaper than buying all the painting materials and much quicker too.
--Chris
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kb58
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| posted on 8/8/06 at 12:31 AM |
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I second the powdercoat; it has worked well for me. I don't regret it.
Mid-engine Locost - http://www.midlana.com
And the book - http://www.lulu.com/shop/kurt-bilinski/midlana/paperback/product-21330662.html
Kimini - a tube-frame, carbon shell, Honda Prelude VTEC mid-engine Mini: http://www.kimini.com
And its book -
http://www.lulu.com/shop/kurt-bilinski/kimini-how-to-design-and-build-a-mid-engine-sports-car-from-scratch/paperback/product-4858803.html
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 8/8/06 at 04:48 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by cerbera
Ive used this to cover the ali sides on my loco.
clicky
Was going to get them painted but got a roll of this for £25 so decided to give it a go. Its holding up very well.
How easy is that to apply without wrinkles? Does it cover up minor scratches or do you still need to sand/fill etc?
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cerbera
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| posted on 8/8/06 at 05:46 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by MikeRJ
quote:
Originally posted by cerbera
Ive used this to cover the ali sides on my loco.
clicky
Was going to get them painted but got a roll of this for £25 so decided to give it a go. Its holding up very well.
How easy is that to apply without wrinkles? Does it cover up minor scratches or do you still need to sand/fill etc?
Its very easy to apply without wrinkles, its the air bubbles you have to watch out for. Cant comment about the scratches. If you give them a ring
they will send you a free sample and you could give it a try yourself to see how it covers. If you do, dont leave it on overnight as it sticks like
s**t to a blanket.
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 8/8/06 at 09:49 PM |
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That is very tempting. Side panels on the Striker are in a bit of a state, especialy where someone has trimmed some race numbers straight onto the
alloy with a stanely knife.
Was going to flat them back with wet and dry and spray them, but this seems like a interesting option.
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locostv8
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| posted on 9/8/06 at 07:23 AM |
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I don't know what this would be called in the UK or whether it is available there but I am going to use Linex truck bedliner sprayed lightly
inside and outside the tub area. The advantage is, at least here, it has a lifetime guarantee that it won't come off. I know a circle track
guy who had this done and he said the total weight was 20 lb less than a paint job. This will totally seal the frame to the panels and eliminate
corrosion and should actually strengthen the chassis.
[Edited on 9/8/06 by locostv8]
http://wrangler.rutgers.edu/gallery2/v/7slotgrille/hssss/
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40inches
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| posted on 9/8/06 at 07:40 AM |
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Line-X truck bed liner is available in the UK: http://line-x.co.uk/page.asp?name=locate_a_dealer&now=9304
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kb58
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| posted on 9/8/06 at 01:50 PM |
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Yes that'll work well, but so would brushing on tar.
Does it matter what it looks like? Before signing up for the stuff, find out how much weight it'll add to your car. It may be fairly shocking.
The Line-X stuff goes on really lumpy and it's Heavy.
Mid-engine Locost - http://www.midlana.com
And the book - http://www.lulu.com/shop/kurt-bilinski/midlana/paperback/product-21330662.html
Kimini - a tube-frame, carbon shell, Honda Prelude VTEC mid-engine Mini: http://www.kimini.com
And its book -
http://www.lulu.com/shop/kurt-bilinski/kimini-how-to-design-and-build-a-mid-engine-sports-car-from-scratch/paperback/product-4858803.html
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locostv8
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| posted on 9/8/06 at 03:54 PM |
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Actualy it is fairly shocking what a paint job weighs. As I said a Circle track guy did his car because he was tired of stone chips and was surprised
that it was lighter than paint. The coating is a two part polly process and is sprayed in multiple coats to get thickness. The bumpyness is the last
coat and is done for cosmetics. The finish can be done to look much like stone guard and does a prety good job of hiding bobos. In this application
a fairly thin coat would be all that is needed except for the inside floor which I will have done up to about .25 and fairly bumpy for non skid. Tar
would be MUCH heavier. This done I don't plan on using any interior and an added advantage is that it should stop drumming.
http://wrangler.rutgers.edu/gallery2/v/7slotgrille/hssss/
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muzchap
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| posted on 9/8/06 at 11:26 PM |
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Well none of you have convinced me - I'm sticking with my 2 pack paint job!
As for paint being heavy - well if it takes 1/2 litre to do all the panels - then the added weight is roughly 1/3 of the weight of the tin - as most
sprays into atmosphere and the additional lacquer etc.
So nothing not eating extra pies wouldn't solve
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If you believe you're not crazy, whilst everybody is telling you, you are - then they are definitely wrong!
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