smdl
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| posted on 8/4/07 at 04:36 AM |
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Welding Chassis Infill Panels
Just finished making my chassis infill panels, and am pleased with the result
.jpg)
I'm about to weld these in, but wonder if they should be fully welded or just partially. If partially, how long and how frequent should the
beads be? They are made with 14 gauge steel.
Thanks,
Shaun
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Gav
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| posted on 8/4/07 at 08:11 AM |
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I fully welded mine but i did stitch them in first then filled the rest in after to avoid too much distortion.
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Ivan
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| posted on 8/4/07 at 08:25 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Gav
I fully welded mine but i did stitch them in first then filled the rest in after to avoid too much distortion.
Ditto
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Peteff
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| posted on 8/4/07 at 09:03 AM |
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How thick?
Is Canadian 14g different to U.K. dimensions, about 1.6mm? I tacked mine in using 3"ish tack and similar gap and am now wondering whether to
bother filling the rest in as they are definitely not going to go anywhere.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 8/4/07 at 09:09 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Peteff
Is Canadian 14g different to U.K. dimensions, about 1.6mm?
14 gauge would make it a destroyer class Locost 
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mark chandler
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| posted on 8/4/07 at 09:57 AM |
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Definately tack every inch then infill working diagonally across the car, my first floor was a buckled diaster which I cut out and replaced !
Even then it was tack welded but I kept going whene infilling instead of swapping side every couple of inches...
Regards Mark
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britishtrident
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| posted on 8/4/07 at 10:46 AM |
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Plug welding (spot welding with MIG) works well when welding this type situation. A special nozzle is available to make it easier.
http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/plug-weld.htm
http://www.esabna.com/EUWeb/MIG_handbook/592mig11_1.htm
With plug welding you can use pop rivets to hold the panel in place thus avoiding distortion
To spot weld to thicker material such as 1.5/1.6 mm with a hobby Mig I drill both parts to be welded the lower part I use a 2mm dia\ hole the
upper a 4mm hole as this aids penetration.
It is also an ideal joint for gas bronze welding.
[Edited on 8/4/07 by britishtrident]
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smdl
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| posted on 8/4/07 at 04:11 PM |
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14g too much, eh? When I asked before, most here had used 3mm! Oh well, that's what I had, so that's what I used.
I guess I will just have to start beating myself up when I get passed on the straight by that stock Spitfire...
;-)
Cheers to all.
Shaun
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907
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| posted on 8/4/07 at 04:51 PM |
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You are absolutely right Shaun.
I've just read your original thread and the replies are a mix of 3mm & 16swg, so 14swg is smack in the middle.
On the other thread you state exactly where they go, between l's & m's.
Maybe people have misunderstood this thread and think you are using 14swg for all panels, floor etc.
I think it helps to state under your avatar what your building and also have pics in your archive.
Paul G
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smdl
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| posted on 8/4/07 at 05:17 PM |
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Thanks for the reply, Paul. I used to have more pics, but started reorganising them last night, as they were a bit scattered and illogical in their
distribution amongst folders. So far, I have just deleted them, and have created new folders to capture things chronologically.
For the rest of the car, I plan to use .060 riveted aluminum for the floor, and am not quite sure yet on the thickness for the body panels.
That's still some time away.
Good point on the description. I'll work on that now!
Shaun
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