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Author: Subject: Roast Avon (almost)
edspurrier

posted on 13/8/07 at 04:45 PM Reply With Quote
Roast Avon (almost)

SO finally got most of the wiring installed. Cutoff switch connected, stalk switches connected, everything except warning lights and instruments. So insulate all the instrument supply wires and try turning it on - crank the engine a couple of times, no problem - turn off, plug last stralk switch (washer pump) on - try again - engine turns, wiper motor works, then

smoke from under the dash. Somewhere.

Turned everything off, hunted, found nothing. No hot wires, no disconnected earths, no melted plastic bits of insulation, not a thing.

Reconnected the washer wires to correct terminals.

Tried again. No more smoke. NOthing hot, nothing at all to suggest anything.

But something somewhere must be shorting, or carrying too much current. But I have not the faintest idea what, nor how to find out short of trying again and seeing what happens.

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flange nut

posted on 13/8/07 at 05:06 PM Reply With Quote
Has a fuse blown? If one has it might give you a clue of where to look.

Geoff

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David Jenkins

posted on 13/8/07 at 05:14 PM Reply With Quote
Take all your fuses out, then replace them one at a time. Put in a fuse, turn on ignition, look for smoke. If no smoke appears, take out that fuse, put in another, repeat the test. Keep doing this until smoke appears - at least then you'll know which circuit has the problem!






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edspurrier

posted on 13/8/07 at 05:36 PM Reply With Quote
Fuses all OK.

Just tried again - the earth resistor for the cutout switch, the one which earths the alternator feed when cut off, is getting very hot. But it shouldn't have current when cutoff switch is ON, and testing with a meter - switch off, live feed to starter/alternator connected to earth as it should be; switch on, not shorted.

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edspurrier

posted on 13/8/07 at 06:47 PM Reply With Quote
Thinking on run - may have connected cutoff switch incorrectly, so the normally on terminal joins earth resistor to ECU feed, and the off terminal joins ECU input to alternator side.
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edspurrier

posted on 13/8/07 at 07:05 PM Reply With Quote
Fixed.

Had done exactly that, the normally-open alternator earth conected the ecu to nothing and the battery was shorted to earth via the resistor when master switch on. Which would explain all.

Amazing what you can think about while running, apart from pain

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t.j.

posted on 13/8/07 at 07:19 PM Reply With Quote
great human mind!

Also great you found it yourself and shared it with us





Please feel free to correct my bad English, i'm still learning. Your Dutch is awfull! :-)

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edspurrier

posted on 13/8/07 at 07:20 PM Reply With Quote
Thanks. Of course really just very stupid to have connected it that way in the first place, but...
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omega 24 v6

posted on 13/8/07 at 07:47 PM Reply With Quote
quote:

Thanks. Of course really just very stupid to have connected it that way in the first place, but..



Mistakes happen but at least by posting yours you may help someone else find there's if they do the same. I think quite often solutions to threads/questions asked are not fully answered when the problem turns out to be someones mistake. Well done for posting yours.





If it looks wrong it probably is wrong.

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edspurrier

posted on 14/8/07 at 06:55 PM Reply With Quote
Spent this evening che3cking everything - seems OK, no earth fault anywhere except the starter solenoid cable is earthed - is this correct? Diagram I have not entirely clear!

Thanks

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t.j.

posted on 15/8/07 at 05:07 AM Reply With Quote
hmmm,

Not exactly clear what you mean.

The starter is normal connected with "red" to the "+" to the battery, with M8 bolt.

Then there is a small cable which is connected to the "ignition/starter switch" on you steeringcolum.

In the neighbourhood off the starter is normal a "brown" cable connected to the bellhouse/engine which is also connected to the car body, to make some real good earth.

This prevents 'earth-loss' and shorted earth between different devices

older starters me have an extra connection which leads to the ignition.
This was at the time that there were resitor to gain 9Volts.

greetings

[Edited on 15/8/07 by t.j.]





Please feel free to correct my bad English, i'm still learning. Your Dutch is awfull! :-)

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edspurrier

posted on 15/8/07 at 08:16 PM Reply With Quote
My starter has
White/red - solenoid supply - to ignition key
Brown - from alternator - supplies loom power and connects to same terminal as
Red - straight to battery

Negative earth so earthed through bellhousing

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t.j.

posted on 16/8/07 at 07:46 PM Reply With Quote
The altenator has:

B+ which goes to the battery + (could be connected to the + on the starter (normal red-cable)
B- which goes to the engine (normal brown-cable)
D+ goes to the lamp at your dash





Please feel free to correct my bad English, i'm still learning. Your Dutch is awfull! :-)

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t.j.

posted on 20/8/07 at 08:28 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by t.j.
The altenator has:

B+ which goes to the battery + (could be connected to the + on the starter (normal red-cable)
B- which goes to the engine (normal brown-cable)
D+ goes to the lamp at your dash


And solved?
BTW:
B+= 30
B-= 31
maybe it helps





Please feel free to correct my bad English, i'm still learning. Your Dutch is awfull! :-)

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edspurrier

posted on 20/8/07 at 09:22 PM Reply With Quote
No longer smoking, thanks!

Just have to work out why the light relay bizzes and nothing flashes when I switch the indicators on now, but I'll leave that until all the lights are connected then try again

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