bjw970s
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| posted on 30/10/07 at 10:58 AM |
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Front Suspension Advice
Hi,
Have just bought a 'race' LOCOST which was used previously in the 750MC series.
Having identified that it is running on Cortina Uprights with M16 Calipers, I am looking to make some changes, particularly as I will not be running
it in the 750MC series and my suspension choices will be free.
I am looking to make the front suspension more tuneable.
I notice that MNR are listing raceleda parts that are 'sierra' based - basic question what is involved in converting from Cortina to
Sierra front end?
Thanks
Brian
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blakep82
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| posted on 30/10/07 at 11:06 AM |
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new wishbone(s) for starters, new brake calipers,
personally i'd stick with the cortina uprights, and maybe just replace your calipers.
the only way i can think of making it more tunable would be to use rose joints/rod ends on the wishbones (you'd need new wishbones for that) and
build some king of anti dive facilitly into the chassis
no doubt someone will correct a few things i've written. I'm actually not building a 7, but my car follows the same suspension
principals
[Edited on 30/10/07 by blakep82]
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D Beddows
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| posted on 30/10/07 at 11:16 AM |
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You'll need completely new everything really in terms of front suspension to swap over - I would question as to why you'd bother though?
people vastly underrate the 750MC Locosts and a properly set up one is more than capable of holding it's own in handling terms against almost
any 'kit' cars you'll meet at a club race meeting......
If you're desperate to spend money on suspension I'd have it professionally set up and uprate the dampers rather than change everything as
750MC Locosts are very restricted in terms of what dampers they can fit
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simes43
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| posted on 30/10/07 at 11:36 AM |
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You can sponsor me if you are looking to throw money around.
If the castor setting is ok, 3 to 5 degrees, then softer springs and perhaps better dampers.
The best way of getting the car to go better is by changing the tyres away from the a 539's and getting the car set up.
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bjw970s
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| posted on 30/10/07 at 12:05 PM |
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mmm,
Thanks for the advice 'Blakep82' seems like common sense.
I am new to the breed but I'm not new racing or rallying and after advice accordingly. My aim is not to throw money away but to seek the advice
of more experienced LOCOST users on the options available.
'You can sponsor me if you are looking to throw money around'
If you're desperate to spend money on suspension'
Therefore I am puzzled as to why the immediate response from some folks included the above 2 comments.
I am neither desperate nor keen to spend more money on the car than necesarry but to understand the options for what is a very capable and
underestimated car - hence why I moved from Saloon cars to LOCOST. 
Look forward to more addvice on the various suspension set-ups and their pros and cons
Brian
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D Beddows
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| posted on 30/10/07 at 12:19 PM |
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Ok then I'll rephrase my post - don't change the front suspension, it will be a waste of time and money as it's not realy
necessary - if you want to improve the front get some dampers that have been valved for your specific application and perhaps some alloy calipers to
reduce unsprung weight a little. Then go and see someone like Procomp to get the suspension set up and you should have a great handling car......
If you want something completely different fine, that's up to you, but it wont be a lot if any better than an optimised setup of what
you've already got. That' s all I was trying to say
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simes43
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| posted on 30/10/07 at 12:59 PM |
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If the castor setting is ok, 3 to 5 degrees, then softer springs and perhaps better dampers.
The best way of getting the car to go better is by changing the tyres away from the a 539's and getting the car set up.
First line has now vanished. Are you looking to improve the appearance or performance?
[Edited on 30/10/07 by simes43]
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bjw970s
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| posted on 30/10/07 at 01:43 PM |
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Thanks that clarifies it more
I having been racing a Metro Gti for the last 2 years so I am certainly not interested in looks
I am looking forward to overcoming the compromises you have to make in a saloon - having just done the birkett - and being able to make adjustments
that add value.
I had looked at alloy calipers but was unsure how much they would help given the relative lightness of the car - but the Wilwood kit is reasonably
priced from rally design for solid discs which, I assumed was all I need.
I have used 048's for sometime and like them. As there is no pereceivable benefit in going to a sierra set-up i will invest the money in tyres.
and look at PROCOMP for shocks.
Thanks
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D Beddows
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| posted on 30/10/07 at 01:51 PM |
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Procomp don't actualy make dampers but I'm sure they could point you in exactly the right direction for what you want
Solid disks are all you'll need btw
Who's car have you bought just out of interest?
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simes43
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| posted on 30/10/07 at 02:00 PM |
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Reducing weight will improve everything as you will know.
Softer tyres and shedding all the kilos you can find would be a good starting place.
Unless you plan a v8 then there is little point overbraking the car. Good fluid, hoses, brake bias adjuster set (60/70 % front), and EBC greenstuff.
You can take the cortina discs down to 8.5 mm to save weight too
Actually leave it as a race car ! Thats my best advice.
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bjw970s
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| posted on 30/10/07 at 02:22 PM |
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Sorry should have said PROCOMP for SHOCK setup.
I am to make it as light as practical (including the driver!) as it is and will continue to be a pure race car. It could be raced as is with a good
service but I a want to give it a winter spruce up, replacing a couple of 'scabby' ali panels hence some questions now.
As to whose it is, It was last raced I estimate in 2003 (scrut stickers) and track day'd in between infrequently by the last owner. Which is
also why I was asking about suspension to see if there have been any improvements in the interim.
it was origonally a crossflow but modded to fireblade by the guy who raced it.
Right solid discs it is - Are greenstuff really good enough? I usually destroy them in my rally car and used Mintex C-tech - does the lihtness of the
car mean they work?
Brian
[Edited on 30/10/07 by bjw970s]
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simes43
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| posted on 30/10/07 at 03:06 PM |
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I think we (I) was under the impression it was a 750 Locost with a crossflow.
If you keep the bike engine for racing then its down to spending money where you are allowed. Matt at procomp could help with advice as he races kits
as well as builds Locosts.
I like the feel of the greenstuff and replace two or three times a year, I use Castrol response Super plus fluid( never faded).
Cadwell is hard on brakes, Silverstone is very light, so I keep an eye on wear rates etc.
There is no warm up lap with the 750mc so working brakes are required when the lights change.
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D Beddows
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| posted on 30/10/07 at 03:20 PM |
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Ahhh.... was it a 750MC Locost back in 2003? if it was there may be a fair bit you can do to improve it as the cars then weren't on the whole
nearly as well put together as they are nowadays. What I've said previously still stands but its worthwhile checking that the suspension bushes
have been installed correctly and even that the wheelbase is somewhere near the same on both sides of the car...... give Matt at Procomp a ring, he
could quite possibly transform the handling of the car.
Have you got any photos of the car? - I'm just being nosey really but I often wonder what happened to a load of cars (one of mine included)
after they got sold on or the owners got fed up of racing.
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bjw970s
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| posted on 30/10/07 at 03:29 PM |
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Happy to get some pics together will post them on photbucket etc and let you have a link
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