David Jenkins
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| posted on 17/1/08 at 09:04 AM |
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Fixing throttle cable ends
I am about to make the end fitting for my throttle cable - it will be very similar to the Ford fitting that goes onto a ball at the top of the pedal,
held on with a clip. Making this end is the easy bit - but I'm not sure how to fix it to the throttle cable inner.
I've heard people talk about splaying the end and soldering it, but I will probably have just a blind hole into the end. Pinch screws can come
undone, and silver solder will wreck the inner cable.
The only way I can think of is to put a thread on the end of the fitting, make a plug with a hole that can be soldered onto the cable, then screw the
2 together with a bit of loctite.
Any other ideas?
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JAG
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| posted on 17/1/08 at 09:22 AM |
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I've soldered nipples onto cables in the past and it works fine.
Just make sure the cable inner is clean of grease/lubricant. I used a 'live' flux (basically weak Sulphuric Acid - it's called
Bakers Fluid by 'old hands' etc...) and dipped the cable and nipple in this before attempting soldering.
Justin
Who is this super hero? Sarge? ...No.
Rosemary, the telephone operator? ...No.
Penry, the mild-mannered janitor? ...Could be!
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bonzoronnie
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| posted on 17/1/08 at 10:04 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by JAG
I've soldered nipples onto cables in the past and it works fine.
Just make sure the cable inner is clean of grease/lubricant. I used a 'live' flux (basically weak Sulphuric Acid - it's called
Bakers Fluid by 'old hands' etc...) and dipped the cable and nipple in this before attempting soldering.
The same here.
I have silver soldered many a cable end.
As the above post.
Make sure the cable is clean, use a good quality flux.
You may also find that it helps to lightly grip the cable in a vice or clamp to leave only a few mm showing. This will help to absorb the heat away
from the cable.
I do mean very lightly 
Ronnie 
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02GF74
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| posted on 17/1/08 at 10:16 AM |
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^^^^ wot they say.
spaly ends and solder - I used lead free plumbers solder from B&Q - if you are deperate I can send you a 20 mm length.
to prevent heat damage to cable, use vice as heat sink or wrap a damp cloth around the end.
make sure the stuff is clean and use flux.
put a bit of solder, heat until melts and job done.
[Edited on 17/1/08 by 02GF74]
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RichardK
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| posted on 17/1/08 at 10:59 AM |
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As above, would have thought soldering would be well sufficient but only if you have got some sort of throttle stop in place to stop excessive
movement on the loud pedal.
Rich
Gallery updated 11/01/2011
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 17/1/08 at 12:34 PM |
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Some people are confusing silver soldering and soft soldering here!
Soft soldering - tin/lead alloy (or non-lead substitute), melts at a lowish temp and shouldn't mess up the cable inner. Comes in various
alloys, from the softest (electrical), to medium strength (plumbers) to hard (Comsol - difficult to find)
Silver soldering - Alloy of (mostly) silver with copper, zinc, tin, nickel, phosphorus,
manganese, silicon and cadmium. Melts at 650 degrees, quite likely to spoil the cable inner.
Sad that I know all this - comes of doing model engineering for years!
Anyway - I wouldn't use silver-solder as the piece has to be taken up to at least dull red heat to work, and I know from experience that it will
spoil the inner.
I was planning to use plumbers soft solder (I have some, thanks! ) but I can't see that holding the cable when it's just shoved into a
hole - would it?
The throttle stop had occured to me - but I keep forgetting to make one!
[Edited on 17/1/08 by David Jenkins]
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paulf
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| posted on 17/1/08 at 01:06 PM |
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I fitted a new end to the handbrake cable by passing the cable through splaying the end apart and then using the mig set to weld the end with just
enough heat to fuse it together.It has lasted 4 years so far.
For an acellerator cable it would probably be ok soft soldered if the end of the cable is splayed out well and then filled with solder.
Paul.
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JAG
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| posted on 17/1/08 at 01:51 PM |
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I would drill ALL the way through the nipple, make sure the cable passed all the way through and was splayed out, then solder it and I would use a
soft solder - I wasn't confused, perhaps a bit unclear but not confused  
[Edited on 17/1/08 by JAG]
Justin
Who is this super hero? Sarge? ...No.
Rosemary, the telephone operator? ...No.
Penry, the mild-mannered janitor? ...Could be!
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02GF74
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| posted on 17/1/08 at 02:15 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by David Jenkins
but I can't see that holding the cable when it's just shoved into a hole - would it?
you need to countersine the end, splay the cable end out and solder (soft!!)
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 20/1/08 at 02:39 PM |
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Here's what I ended up with - the brass nut and bolt thing on the right is the bulkhead fixing, with a threaded hole for the adjuster that came
with the cable.
The stainless + brass thing on the left is the bit that clips onto the accelerator pedal's 'ball joint' with the aid of a special
spring clip (seen in the second picture). The brass bit on the right is what will be soldered onto the end of the cable.
[Edited on 20/1/08 by David Jenkins].jpg)
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 20/1/08 at 02:40 PM |
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And assembled into the 2 units....jpg)
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MikeR
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| posted on 28/1/08 at 10:48 PM |
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David, where did you get those bits from?
Specifically the bit that mounts the ball & does it fit the standard ford accelerator cable thingy on the carbs?
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 29/1/08 at 08:51 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by MikeR
David, where did you get those bits from?
Specifically the bit that mounts the ball & does it fit the standard ford accelerator cable thingy on the carbs?
Made them myself, mostly on the lathe. It helps to have done model engineering in the past - after a 5" gauge steam loco this sort of thing is
not too much of a challenge!
This is specifically for the pedal end, as I used to use a stock Escort cable and didn't want to hack the pedal around just because I had a new
cable. I just measured the existing plastic cable end and copied the significant dimensions. I might yet have to make the hole a bit larger and fit a
PTFE sleeve, but I'll see how smoothly it runs first.
The other end is a standard bike connection - a little cylinder of metal soldered/crimped to the end of the cable, which fits into a slot on the
carbs' throttle spindle.
My next "challenge" is to take the cable through 90 degrees at the carbs - the cable kit has a suitable bend that guides the inner cable,
but it is going to be a VERY close fit to the inside of my nosecone - I'll deal with that when the carbs are mounted.
David
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Mix
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| posted on 29/1/08 at 05:15 PM |
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Ever considered a bellcrank?
Regards Mick
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 29/1/08 at 07:04 PM |
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That could be plan B! (or is it C?)
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.jpg)
