gingerprince
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| posted on 11/6/08 at 10:59 PM |
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893 Fireblade rotor puller - thread size?
Hi, I'm currently in the middle of splitting an 893 'blade engine following Mr Haynes. I now need to remove the alternator rotor and it
suggests I need a proper Honda tool.
I'm assuming that I can also use a correctly threaded bolt for the same purpose (which hopefully will be cheaper from local nut shop since I
don't expect to be removing many rotors in my life!) - in which case does anyone know the thread pitch for the 893 blade? I've found
reference to the 929 being 20mm x 1.5, but I'd like to know if the 893 is the same or different?
, Sy
Ta
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ReMan
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| posted on 11/6/08 at 11:28 PM |
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I think you will find that the oil filter center will thread on nicely and tighten up with the spanner against the crank.
Wind it in, give it a few gentle taps with a copper mallet, it should fall off 
However, you may not need to take it off at all?
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skodaman
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| posted on 12/6/08 at 02:59 AM |
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I used to have the proper Honda tool for this. It had four different threads, some of which were reverse threads, which could prove a problem. Mind
you this was way pre- fireblade. If you can find a bolt to fit it will do the job just as well. But if you do need the proper tool mine cost less
than ten quid from Bill Heads in Preston so just go to your nearest Honda shop.
Skodaman
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gingerprince
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| posted on 12/6/08 at 02:22 PM |
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Good tip about the oil filter, I'll give that one a go  Otherwise I'll go for the tool if that doesn't work and it turns out I do
need to remove it.
Cheers.
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ChrisGamlin
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| posted on 12/6/08 at 09:21 PM |
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Careful you dont thread the oil cooler bit though, because if its anything like as tight as the R1 rotor then you'll need something hardened.
I ended up making my own tool using a 12.9 hardened bolt of the correct thread
I ended up welding the regular 12mm bolt on the other side to act as a pivot (resting on an axle stand adjusted to the right height) to stop it
twisting, because I had to put a 2 ft bar on the end of that and bolt the engine to the bench to get it off!
I think the R1 rotor is notoriously hard to get off compared to most, but Id still be careful using something that may be a bit soft.
Having said that I dont think you'll actually need to remove it if you're just splitting it to get at the gearbox, unlike on the R1.
cheers
Chris
[Edited on 12/6/08 by ChrisGamlin]
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Hellfire
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| posted on 13/6/08 at 11:16 AM |
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Nope, the rotor can stay where it is.
Phil
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