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Author: Subject: Valve Guides
Alfa145

posted on 24/6/08 at 09:30 AM Reply With Quote
Valve Guides

Anyone know of a place to replace Valve Guides around the Chesterfield/Sheffield area?

What sort of cost would be reasonable to pay for putting new guides in a V6?

Is it worth getting an unleaded conversion done at the same time?

Cheers

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Mr Whippy

posted on 24/6/08 at 09:42 AM Reply With Quote
personally I'm still not convinced with this need for hardened seats. I still see no wear in the unconverted engines, even the baking hot vw ones show zip and their valve gear is well dodgy. You know lead was actually added to pervent detonation not to reduce valve wear (by the same guy who invented CFC's ) so since around 1922 petrol has always contained lead. So I ask you when would people not have used lead and descovered that not using it worn out valve seats, or is it all just a big (expensive) con?



[Edited on 24/6/08 by Mr Whippy]

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BenB

posted on 24/6/08 at 09:56 AM Reply With Quote
There's a nice article in a recent classics magazine about changing valve guides. I think it's this months Classics Monthly. Doesn't look *that* difficult

BB

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Mr Whippy

posted on 24/6/08 at 10:03 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by BenB
There's a nice article in a recent classics magazine about changing valve guides. I think it's this months Classics Monthly. Doesn't look *that* difficult

BB


Having a small hydraulic press in the garage is also an extremely handy and they are not expensive or even difficult to make. Sure beats thumping the crap out everything with a big hammer.

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02GF74

posted on 24/6/08 at 10:22 AM Reply With Quote
repaling guides is not the big deal - it is then having to cut the valve seats so they are concentric and match the valves that is the hard part, well not that hard if you ahve the tooling whcih is £££ (unless it is an alloy head then the guides tear the alloy as hey are pressed out so you are better off sleeving the guides themselves).

the cost is about a tenner per guide plus price of guide.






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Memphis Twin

posted on 24/6/08 at 10:30 AM Reply With Quote
Peter Burgess in Alfreton. The very bloke who wrote the SpeedPro book on modifying cylinder heads, and probably the most respected guy in the business. They make their own bronze guides.

He has a site on the net if you want to do a search.

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BenB

posted on 24/6/08 at 10:44 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by 02GF74
repaling guides is not the big deal - it is then having to cut the valve seats so they are concentric and match the valves that is the hard part, well not that hard if you ahve the tooling whcih is £££ (unless it is an alloy head then the guides tear the alloy as hey are pressed out so you are better off sleeving the guides themselves).

the cost is about a tenner per guide plus price of guide.


Yup! Sure is. Personally I'd do the valve guides as a DIY job (without taking the head off) and leave it as that. If I was worried about the seats I'd bung an additive in the petrol mix....

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02GF74

posted on 24/6/08 at 11:07 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by BenB

Personally I'd do the valve guides as a DIY job (without taking the head off) and leave it as that.


interesting - how do you do the guide without taking the head off? - do you drop the valve into the cylinder and then fish it out with a magnet through the guide afterwards? :p






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britishtrident

posted on 24/6/08 at 11:14 AM Reply With Quote
I am pretty sure the Essex v6 dosen't have valve guides

The valves on Ford engines traditionally ran ran straight in the head, if they wore the heat it could be reamed out and valves with over size stems used.
However engine reconditioners these days would drill the head to accept guides.

After that re-cutting the valve seats isn't a major job with the right tool BUT it would be absolutely pointless going so far without also fitting hardened valve seats for unleaded.

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BenB

posted on 24/6/08 at 01:05 PM Reply With Quote
Don't worry about me I'm talking cobblers
Was thinking about valve stem seals!! LOL

quote:
Originally posted by 02GF74
quote:
Originally posted by BenB

Personally I'd do the valve guides as a DIY job (without taking the head off) and leave it as that.


interesting - how do you do the guide without taking the head off? - do you drop the valve into the cylinder and then fish it out with a magnet through the guide afterwards? :p

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Alfa145

posted on 24/6/08 at 01:39 PM Reply With Quote
lol. Changed the seals many a times without the head off to try and cure my issue, only noticed this time that the valve is quite loose in the guide so thinking that no matter how good the seal it it'll be leaking down the guide anyway. Hence looking for options and costs on replacing the guides.
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Alfa145

posted on 24/6/08 at 02:50 PM Reply With Quote
Or to save the hassle would I be better just buying these?
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MikeRJ

posted on 24/6/08 at 03:18 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Mr Whippy
is it all just a big (expensive) con?


No, I've seen the effects of valve seat recession first hand. I replaced the cylinder head twice on my cousins mini because she ran it on unleaded (being cheaper than 4* or LRP) and it would close up the valve clearances and burn exhaust valves and seats.

I also have a 1600 crossflow head in my basement where the valves are virtualy flush with the head the seats have recessed so far.

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Memphis Twin

posted on 24/6/08 at 03:59 PM Reply With Quote
I'd go for the heads from Newark engines if the price doesn't rise too much. £185 for a pair of unleaded heads with new valves is a bargain...
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