and how deep your pockets are... I'm hoping for 430kilos wet...
[Edited on 27/2/07 by worX]
whats the average weight for a road legal BEC locost?
that depends on which company supplied the kit and how deep your pockets are...
I'm hoping for 430kilos wet...
[Edited on 27/2/07 by worX]
wet weight r1 indy 460kg
youd be luck to see under 445kg
if you had live axle and cortina uprights 13" wheels etc etc you could get down to 410kg
Realistic weight would be between 450 and 550Kgs,
Thats withough going mad and spending shed loads on carbon bits and bobs and lightweight brakes,
but similarly not putting in stuff you dont need, aeroscreen, seat padding, carpet, MDF dash, car rad when the bike one will do etc etc.
well my pinto powered indy weighed in at 548kgs at SVA. So im hoping to save at least 100kgs by swapping to the blade engine.
ZX12r powered vortx, full of 50litres fuel. 8 ltrs oil, cosworth 7.5 inch lsd, 540kg's
Thats accurately corner weighed...
50litre fuel tank
quote:
Originally posted by dilley
50litre fuel tank
book chassis, zx9, 450kg wet ( full fuel tank )
[Edited on 27/2/07 by ch1ll1]
440kg on the SVA rollers - fairly empty of fuel, but that's with comfy seats & the heaviest back end option (wishbone IRS).
Be more now it has a screen & more again when it gets wipers...
Bob
my kitten weighed 480kg with a full tank of fuel
530kg @ SVA with me sat in it..... and I'm not a Lightweight!!!
My live axle book chassis with steel floor was corner weighted with about 1/3 tank (6-8L) of fuel at 437kgs, that was with the blade engine, FIA
rollhoop, STM bodywork and aeroscreen, Cortina uprights, Wilwood 4 pot front brakes, stock rear drums, compomotive ML split rims (~4.5kgs / corner),
185/60-13 Yoko 32's and Westfield padded race seats.
I worked out the steel floor is between 6-8kgs heavier than an alu one, so there's savings to be made there. Equivalent size ACB10's are
also 2-3kgs a corner lighter than A032's, and I now have R500 Tillet seats which are ~2kgs each lighter than a Westie seat, so I reckon with a
few other mods such as an alu diff nose which saves a few kgs, I could get mine under 400kgs "wet" fairly easily.
[Edited on 27/2/07 by ChrisGamlin]
that would be poo hot r1 400kg
Richard Miles' R1 Striker was a nice car, genuinely under 400kgs wet with over 140bhp at the wheels.
I did a couple of trackdays with him whilst he still had the car and it seemed to have the legs on my mate's Megabusa to the wrong side of
100mph, admittedly a car that weighed maybe 70kgs more though so not entirely unexpected.
[Edited on 27/2/07 by ChrisGamlin]
quote:
Originally posted by dilley
50litre fuel tank
MNR Vortx RT+ - FI 2003 R1, GRP seats, 'Tina uprights, Raceleda 4 pot calipers, Caterham 8 spoke 13" alloys (4kg a corner) Toyo R888s, 20l of fuel - 433kg
My ZX9R Phoenix (no reverse) weighed in at 422kg using professional corner weight scales with all fluids except fuel. The expensive light bits
include Hi-Spec front and rear calipers, alloy front hubs, titanium drive-shafts and light-weight Caterham 13” wheels. The Intertrim Odyssey seats
are quite light as well.
I am now changing the engine to a ZX10R, which is reportedly slightly lighter! I can believe it as well since it looks dinky compared to the ZX9R
lump. I have also just bought some cheap second hand Raceleda alloy front uprights and some cheap second hand pro-tech shocks. I estimate these bit
alone represent another 8 Kg saving and I am in discussion with a fibre-glass seat company about producing a seat that will fit the hideously narrow
Phoenix/Striker chassis. This would shed another 4 Kg. Although it is starting to get a bit not-so-locost, I would like to think that I can get it
down to 410Kg without too much expense. After that it would have to be magnesium wheels and a carbon prop-shaft which is taking it to the extreme a
bit.
Do you have the lightweight race bodywork birt?
As Ive got a Caged Phoenix chassis sitting in the garage awaiting building (eventually), Id be interested in what you end up doing about the seats,
unfortunately the Caterham Tillet's Ive currently got in the Locost don't fit, at least not without cutting the leg support parts either
side, to fit into where the passenger compartment narrows on the Phoenix.
Chris,
I don't think it is the race bodywork, that is really flimsy if I remember and not advisable for road use. However, it is thinner and much
lighter than Chris Cook's (on this forum) Sylva Phoenix bodywork. I know cos I helped him fit it and he helped me fit mine and his is really
thick. Not so much of an issue for him thoguh since it has an XE lump in it.
I will keep you posted on the seats, I think they realise that if they make a good quality seat that fits the Phoenix/Striker that there could be many
customers wanting them.
Yep, I think I remember someone (maybe Ian Gray) saying there is 3 different thicknesses of bodywork, ranging from the very flimsy race stuff, then
the intermediate weight, and finally the (possibly original) thickness GRP if you want to drive through brick walls unscathed
Though a bit late to the conversation, my se7en corner-weighted at 924 lbs. This is a modified book build using Miata/MX-5 components. The car is
street legal in the US.
--Thanks, Chris
quote:
Originally posted by chrisf
Though a bit late to the conversation, my se7en corner-weighted at 924 lbs.
Chris, Just looking at your photo archive for any clues. It is a great looking car so don't take this the wrong way but the size of the roll bar and lack of bracing would have helped with the weight saving if not your head in a roll over situation. Have you opted for no screen whatsoever? If so, do you always wear a helmet?
Hi:
That roll bar is the 1.5" and bent on a 3" radius--which is recommended by the SCCA. It is biased to the driver, but I got the idea from you
lot. When I do a track day, I'll install a traditional rollbar.
Special bits...the miata wheels are very light, I run only 3 gallons of fuel, the rear suspension uses inboard R6 dampers, the GRP is pretty thin and
I have carbon seats. Other than that, it's a pretty normal car. I see a lot more fancy cars on this forum.
Since thos pictures were taken, I have installed an aeroscreen that looks like ChrisG's. I also went to paddle shifters. Have a look at the
website for more pics under my.build.
I was shooting for 1000lbs with driver...
--Chris
Although it looks a bit skinny, it isn't the size or construction that would concern me it is the lack of bracing both fore/aft to stop it from
collapsing or diagonally to stop it from twisting/shearing. I tend to pay a lot of attention to roll bars after a friend of a friend was killed when
he rolled his car through a field and his roll bar collapsed a few years ago. I also used to work for the only company in the UK who are certified to
conduct official FIA rollbar/roll cage simulation work and the results can be alarming.
There have been threads dedicated to this subject, usually surrounding the height, which is often too low to protect the occupants head if they were
to roll their car. Somebody always pipes up and says that they don’t intend to roll it or it is impossible to roll a Locost due to the low centre of
gravity. Both are irresponsible arguments. Most of us will probably have experienced a situation where we are driving quickly down a bendy road only
to suddenly find that the road has become a little bumpier and the car tends to skip around a bit, especially if the dampers are set too hard. This
is usually followed by a brown pants moment where you find yourself drifting towards the edge of the road as the variation in contact patch pressure
causes you too loose lateral grip. This is just one example of a situation where one day, heaven forbid, you may end up clipping the curve and
flipping the car over.
1000Lb weight target with driver! That would be an awesome achievement. I am assuming you didn’t manage to make it, and if you did, you weigh less
than 35Kg and you should see a doctor!
wieghed today 520 kgs with full tank of fuel, why not fill the tyres with heliumlocost option
[Edited on 12/3/07 by dilley]
quote:
Originally posted by Toady1
im hoping to save at least 100kgs by swapping to the blade engine.
youll need some new mounts MK will do this and exhaust and prop
expect to pay£400 on fabrication parts and then your engine on top
Is that all that is needed?? I went down to Mac and when enquiring, i asked them how easy it is to do a conversion on one of there cars, they said it
was particularly hard as a lot of chassis modification including the cutting of the chassis was needed. But if its a case of just buying a mount and
modifying the prop shaft i guess thats not too bad. How much would a average fireblade engine cost with average miles?? I know its generic, but just
looking for a price range
Many thanks Tim
440 kgs, fully wet. as in tank full.