Just thought I would show off my latest job.
I'm aware that some people don't agree with rose jointing wishbones and that others are critical but I've a few reasons for wanting
them. Mainly to keep my hand in with the improvements. I'm pleased with the outcome.
Thanks to Flak Monkey for turning up the threaded ends.
Why would people be critical of rose joints?
Honest question just interested as to why. I have every part of my suspension back and front as well as top ball joints rose jointed, what’s the
problem?
James
I think some people can be critical with regard to thier longevity and ride comfort, but most because the shank of the rose joint is in single shear and the bending load is concentrated at the root of one of the threads - not as strong compared to using spherical joints in double shear. However, my suspension and many others is like that and they havent had any issues so i think its more of a theoretical thing, or an issue if you are really pounding round a circuit...
People seem to be critical as Hellbent says. Longevity and shear loads. The real reasons for me doing it was firstly because on the nearside my upper wishbone bracket is too far forward compared to the offside one because of a confusion early on involving Escort width bones and Sierra bones and basically, somehow I've only just come round to realising it and also because I just fancied giving it a try. That's a big thing for me, trying something out, like a bike engine. No big deal and all that. I look forward to giving it a try when the weather holds out and seeing how it performs in the long run.
there was a thread a few weeks back about the 'incorrect use' of rose joints, which as i seem to remember, condradicted a similar few
threads, but I think if they're checked regularly for play in the joints, they're absolutely fine. they do make for a slightly harsher rise
and more road noise, but it cars are hardly the top line in comfort.
the welds though, while i'm sure they are strong enough, don't look particularly neat if i'm honest?
http://boardroom.wscc.co.uk/cgi-bin/ikonboard.cgi?act=ST;f=3;t=84209;st=0
http://www.formulastudent.de/academy/pats-corner/advice-details/article/pats-column-rod-ends-in-bending/
Those pretty much cover the reasons for not using rod ends. The bigger issue normally is the outer camber adjusters tbh. Hopefully Flak Monkey's
are a little thicker than the Rally Design ones!
quote:
Originally posted by alistairolsen
http://boardroom.wscc.co.uk/cgi-bin/ikonboard.cgi?act=ST;f=3;t=84209;st=0
http://www.formulastudent.de/academy/pats-corner/advice-details/article/pats-column-rod-ends-in-bending/
Those pretty much cover the reasons for not using rod ends. The bigger issue normally is the outer camber adjusters tbh. Hopefully Flak Monkey's are a little thicker than the Rally Design ones!
Every one of the Pat's corner articles is well worth a read if you can spare the time!
the rose joints should be fine on a road car, they take a pounding on the pot holes so check for play developing in the liners, a good wide base on
the wishbone will reduce the loads they see but that apears to be pre set so you will have to live with it, my bigger consurn and i am suprised only
one other person has mentioned it, is the quality of the welding. please dont take this personaly i really am saying it for your own good, but the
welds dont look great and a weld failure on a wishbone could be very serious.
tilly
Ha! Yes I know what you're saying about the welds but trust me, they don't look that bad in the flesh. I think it's the shiny paint and
lighting playing tricks. The welding on the camber adjusters looks bad here too but that was done by GTS and isn't bad at all.
ETA just seen the photo again on the front page and the welds do look really bad don't they? Like pigeon droppings. They really aren't that
bad at all.
[Edited on 15/8/11 by mistergrumpy]
Mistergrumpy are the camber adjusters the gold ones or is that just the reflection from the paint?
If they are the gold ones please do not use them get some made from steel.
I have first hand experiance of these gold ones and have seen them very close to failing due to cracking 3/4 of the way round the head.
HTH
quote:
Originally posted by mistergrumpy
Ha! Yes I know what you're saying about the welds but trust me, they don't look that bad in the flesh. I think it's the shiny paint and lighting playing tricks. The welding on the camber adjusters looks bad here too but that was done by GTS and isn't bad at all.
ETA just seen the photo again on the front page and the welds do look really bad don't they? Like pigeon droppings. They really aren't that bad at all.
I started this thread about spherical joints, linky
The camber adjusters are the yellow ally things that I've had on since building and SVA'ing the car in 2009. The steel ones I may consider
for Winter upgrades, I do remember yours giving up. I think you're the only person that have had them fail though aren't you?
Blake I do agree the welding does look bad but honestly it isn't so bad in real life. It doesn't miss the bush, the bush is cut into
wishbone. It is a bit wavy because of crap lighting in the garage and stop starting but honestly if they were that bad I absolutely wouldn't use
them. That's why I bought the bones originally instead of buying them.
Mine have not failed I removed them as soon as I could due to seeing what had happened and making a judgment that they look very weak. I wouldn't
even give them away they went in the bin.
But I do know someone that removed theirs on my advice and found both split 3/4 the way round at the nut end. We had just come back from a very long
road trip and I can't imagin what could have happened if they had both let go.
For the sake of a few quid and 30 mins work I would do it asap but that of course is just my opinion.
Today mine failed at a trackday.
The shank of the rose joint just snapped and I ran off track.
I intended to renew all rose joints this winter after this last trackday since some of them were getting worn out.
The bottom one is already the one with the heaviest load, and having some more play over-stressed it.
I was running slicks, and these are also putting quite some stress on the suspension. Luckily no harm done, and it seems that everything is still
straight. Will have some measuring and fixing to do this winter ...
Fast lap
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jCMq0ZCJ7k0
Snap and exit ...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Llt3mcygbvc
[Edited on 6/11/11 by WoKe]
quote:
Originally posted by WoKe
Today mine failed at a trackday.
The shank of the rose joint just snapped and I ran off track.
I intended to renew all rose joints this winter after this last trackday since some of them were getting worn out.
The bottom one is already the one with the heaviest load, and having some more play over-stressed it.
I was running slicks, and these are also putting quite some stress on the suspension. Luckily no harm done, and it seems that everything is still straight. Will have some measuring and fixing to do this winter ...
Fast lap
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jCMq0ZCJ7k0
Snap and exit ...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Llt3mcygbvc
what are you using to record the video with the overlay?
quote:
Originally posted by WoKe
Today mine failed at a trackday.
The shank of the rose joint just snapped and I ran off track.
[Edited on 6/11/11 by WoKe]
It's interesting that it seems to have sheared between the locknut and the wishbone - the classic break is between the ball and the nut - perhaps
an overtightened lock nut?
James
They look like M12. If one has failed previously then i would seriously look at trying to get a 5/8s x 1/2" one in there.
quote:
Originally posted by SausageArm
How old were your rosejoints?
I really like the telemetry overlay in your videos
quote:
Originally posted by atm92484
What size and type of rod-end were you using?
quote:
Originally posted by cloudy
It's interesting that it seems to have sheared between the locknut and the wishbone - the classic break is between the ball and the nut - perhaps an overtightened lock nut?
quote:
Originally posted by phelpsa
They look like M12. If one has failed previously then i would seriously look at trying to get a 5/8s x 1/2" one in there.
quote:
They look like M12. If one has failed previously then i would seriously look at trying to get a 5/8s x 1/2" one in there.
Its hard to tell for sure but the rod-end shank does not appear to be parallel with the axis of that leg of the arm. If this is true then there is a bending load on the shank. I would venture to say the increased stress was low enough that it didn't fail immediately but high enough that fatigue caused it to finally break.
quote:
Originally posted by Neville Jones
quote:
They look like M12. If one has failed previously then i would seriously look at trying to get a 5/8s x 1/2" one in there.
M10 are more than sufficient, if bought in the correct grade and installed properly, then regularly replaced with a preventative maintenance programme. Soon as they get any slack, replace. Use two piece, and oil regularly. Teflon liners are nice on racecars, where they are replaced every meeting, but not meant for road cars. I've seen the liners spat out on endurance racers, after only a handful of laps. A bit of common sense goes a long way.
Heavier rodends need heavier mounts, heavier bolts, and heavier w/bone inserts, all putting excess weight in the wrong places.
The breakage at the nut/wbone interface indicates overtightening of the lock nut.
Cheers,
Nev.
quote:
Originally posted by WoKe
quote:
I have no idea, the car is a 2009 factory built RoadRunner SR-1. It was built as demonstrator and was used/tested for some series in Spain (as I was told). I bought it last year and used it on 5 trackdays. The engine just had a complete overhaul right before I bought it, and I replaced the sprockets and chain this week. I guess it already had it's fair use of track-abuse.
I have an AIM MXL Pisto dash/logger installed in combination with a SmartyCam.
Direct interface with the ECU and lots of other inputs like oil pressure, throttle position, brake pressure, etc ...
Thanks for the reply. I'd like to upgrade my standard ZX10R dash to one of the AIM's, so it's nice to see some good examples of their products.
hughpinder - 8/11/11 at 09:36 AMJust one comment - I notice you can put your camber adjusters in from the "outside". I always thought the aluminium typres should have a lip on the outer edge so the load is taken on the thread, not the 'nut' at the end of the adjuster.
How I think it should be used (from staniforth book I think):
How you usually see then used, which means all the load is concentrated just uner the nut on the aluminium adjuster:
Regards,
Hugh
TheGecko - 8/11/11 at 01:13 PMThese are my camber adjusters - the first photo shows the plain bush to be welded into the wishbone with the adjuster and locknut etc. These are all steel, wall thickness of the adjuster part is >3mm (from memory). Second pic is the finished bones. Not used in anger yet but the same maker's parts have seen plenty of road and track time with no issues. The idea of making these from thin aluminium gives me the willies
Dominic