Hi.

IIRC MNR stop accepting orders a few weeks ago due to too much work.
Does anyone know when will they accept new orders?

Also I had the idea that Marc usually responds U2Us very quickly, but I've sent one Tuesday and it was not even read - also he didn't post for a few days... Does anyone know what is the best way to contact hime in a written mode (as I don't speak english that well)?

Thanks
Joao Caldeira

Hi JoaoCaldeira.

I am sure Marc will contact you soon. I seem to remember he posted a while ago that the time he would be spending on the forum would be reduced.

I am also sure he will let the forum know when he is available to take on 'one off' work.

Kind regards

Agriv8

quote:

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Originally posted by CaLviNx
Hi

There is a simple cure for MNR not accepting orders, place your order with another supplier.....


Regards

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quote:

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Originally posted by MikeR

quote:

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Originally posted by CaLviNx
Hi

There is a simple cure for MNR not accepting orders, place your order with another supplier.....


Regards

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Not exactly a helpful response!

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Marc is away for the week.

As far as not accepting orders, I think this is only for non kit purchases.

Soon as hes back my deposit is down for a VortxRT - Hurry up Norden

Rich

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Originally posted by RichieC
Soon as hes back my deposit is down for a VortxRT - Hurry up Norden
Rich

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He is indeed back - Cheques on its way



Rich

What are you ordering?
For which engine?
For what use?

I still have a few doubts...


Joćo Caldeira

VortxRT
R1
Road use and some track work

That is precisley what I'm considering ordering.

Do you have a list of every bit you'll order?
How much will you spend (for now )?
Where will you get your engine? From MNR?

Joao

My biggest conserns / doubts are:

. is RT chassis enought triangulated (as RT+ is way more)
. brake callipers: standard Sierra or Raceleda, etc... (especially due to weight - front)
. using a donnor or just buy needed parts (especially if not using sierra brake callipers)
. seat: basic FG highback, or trimmed



Joao Caldeira

yep its triangulated enough ive had mine over a year,done 0ver 5,000 miles and done track days,sprints and hill climbs

and done well i might ad,whitch is good considering im 6ft 3in and 17 stone

yep im now back

starting to wade through my mail, should be back to normal next week

we are taking orders for kits, and general parts but not custom components,

the main reason for this is so we can help and support our existing customers better to help them get on the road as soon as possible

best regards


marc

quote:

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Originally posted by JoaoCaldeira
That is precisley what I'm considering ordering.

Do you have a list of every bit you'll order?
How much will you spend (for now )?
Where will you get your engine? From MNR?

Joao

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Congrats for you and your wife!!!!
I've twins with two and a half years, but it seems it was AWAY LONGER!!!

About the car... I agree with you about the donnor bits - finally one decision made

I'm in a budget, but would like to have a light front wheel assembly (gyroscopic forces) and a DigiDash (just bought it to feel I'm doing something )

Enjoy your last days of full sleeping nights 'till wife gets home and the best of luck with the baby

Joao

[Edited on 05/12/3 by JoaoCaldeira]

Thanks so much for the kind words, making the most of it until the sleepless nights start!!

Ive gone for a lightweight setup where possible so 240mm front discs and calipers (plain not vented) and drum back end. The only luxury Ive afforded myself was an LSD so a little butchery required to run the LSD with drum shafts (I need to change the CV joints for Lobros but thats a well documented procedure for Sierra owners).

Everything else is going to be pretty minimal and a Digidash 2 Lite I think (OK second luxury!)

Thanks again, any other question please drop me a line Id be happy to share what though tprocesses I went through.

Rgds

Rich

Definitly I want to know everything about your process of choosing the parts

I've build a spredsheet with the components I've been thinking of (actually I'll sent it to Marc so he analyzes what makes sense and what could be improved)

Still don't know what setup will be running in the front (don't know if can afford raceleda kind of stuff) but will go for discs in the rear with LSD. I think the look of drums will spoil it (although they are lighter, cheaper, up to the job, etc...)

What will you use to drive the engine timming, injection...? Power Commander?

Found rad and fan from R1 on eBay (13 hours to go, UKP 60) - which I'll let go - but I intend to buy something similliar, as will make plumbing easier.
Also on eBay there are lots of cans so I may get one from eBay, too.
Another bit I found on eBay was bike mirrors with side repeaters on them. for 25 seems OK.

What is the recommended size for the steering wheel? Just remebered the other stravaganza I may go for - Isotta Vallelunga steering wheel (I'm dreaming with it for 3 or 4 year now ) but It's 340 mm and I don't know if it's too big. I'll mount it over a quick reease boss so it can be used as a deterement for thiefes.

For now I wont fit a reverse mechanism but I intend in the future fir an electric reverse one.

Pedal box... I'll go with Marc's.

Well... can you please check my xls ans write your thouts?

Joao

I posted a big long reply and then lost it so Ill have another go

I agree 100% about discs looking better than drums, but for me, I saw this as a weight saving measure (all be it slight) without loosing braking efficiency. There have been threads comparing the weights of the drum and disc setup and theres not much in it, but there is a difference and like you say theyre cheaper. Ill give them a whirl and see how I get on.

Im going with a carbed R1 engine 99/2000 for no other reasons than theyre cheap/plentiful and easy to work with.
Radiator wise, I need to take advice on it but I think Ill probably use a Micra or Polo one as they are lightweight, small and have temp sensors built it, its just a case of plumbing them up. I dont see what would stop you from using the R1 rad however, like I say Im not decided on that yet.

It wont be an issue for you, but Im sticking with the standard Ford steering wheel to help with SVA, but after that its getting ditched for a smaller suede one. Ive used various makes in the past but OMP and Sparco are both excellent.

Good idea picking bits up from eBay, Ive been doing the same and fiddly bits like indicators, mirrors, fuse boxes and consumables are all over the place.

Pedal box, like you Ive chosen the MNRs, ready to go.

Ive basically gone for a sort of starter kit to begin with, so, kit/bodywork, propshaft, tunnel cover, fuel tank, pedal box and MNR loom. I was originally intending to use the R1 loom, but having spoken to Chris, I decided it wasnt worth the headaches so I opted for their custom one.

I note from your xls you mention EBC pads. Youll get mixed reviews on these, but I have used them in the past and was far from impressed. We always ran Mintex on the raly car (largely cos they sponsored us!) and the 1144 and 1155 compounds were superb. I also ran the 1144 on my road car (Impreza) when they were first sold as CTech and they were great from cold and did not fade. I dont have any experience of pads on kit cars so this is just my opinion, but I always think of pads like oils and plugs, once you find a brand you trust, you tend to stick with them.

Hope this helps, anything else just shout

Kind Rgds

Rich

just so you know if the R1 rad is plumbed correctly it wont have any cooling problems

its lighter and comes with all the correct holes(obviously)

chris

I think youll want no bigger than 330mm on the steering wheel mate

300mm if you can

Good news on the R1 rad. I wasnt sure how it would do behind a nose cone.

Rich

Are the standard fans any good? IIRC, theyre fairly puny

Rich

Hey all!

Thought I'd join in seeing as I seem to be building to the same spec as you two.

As for brakes, I'd agree, I'm going for rear drums as they save a small amount in unsprung weight and also because the donor I sourced has them on! The diff I'm using is the donor's, which is the 3.38 open diff. I'm pretty sure that this will suffice for the time being as I've heard that the LSD's 'limiting' action can be a little harsh. And I don't have a huge amount of experience with these types of cars around the track.

As for cooling, I've plumped for the Seat Arosa radiator as it's the biggest that will fit under the VortX nose cone and is still nice and light. The reason for going bigger than standard R1 is due to cooling issues when thinking about tuning the engine... I have plans to use a small (<50hp) shot of NOS at some point and want to make sure the motor stays nice and warm not boiling! Saying that the guys in the states that put silly NOS shots on these motors still use the standard R1 rad...

Chris.

IIRC the arosa is the same as the polo rad, and yeh, the R1 fan is a lot smaller.

Dont get mixed up with LSDs though Winston, the Sierra used a viscous coupling version so its not a proper limited slip diff and they dont lock suddenly like other LSDs. Because they are hydrostatic, they are more progressive and not as snatchy. Handling characteristics are affected by using an LSD, so Ill see how I get on with it.

Kind Rgds
Rich

I have heard that even though they are viscous couplings they still aren't overly progressive. This is obviously an opinion based on other people's... I have no personal experience.

I have just heard that they can be more trouble than they are worth so I decided to start with an open diff (with a weight saving) and then progress to an LSD when and if I need the traction.

Chris.

Hi looks like we are all building the same spec car so it must be the right choice.
I have just started my build.
The good thing is that the parts are easy to change at a later date if you change your mind and you can just sell your old parts on eBay.

All last readings made me change some of the bits...
Main components:
. RT
. R1 02 /03, probably from US (way cheaper than UK or PT), with rad and fan
. No reverse (electric in the future)
. Open diff (3.62 or 3.38), push in shafts drum hub carriers, adaptor plate to discs, standard discs
. FRONT still not knowing what to do... maybe wait for rotry alloy hubs...
. DD2 Lite
. Quick rack
. MNR exhaust (w/ R1 performance can), pedal box, electrics, tank, propshaft, fuel tank, expansion tank, other bits

Undecided:
. Seats
. Steering wheels
. Donnor supliers

What can I do (cheaply) to decrease the unsprung wheight???

Joao

quote:

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Originally posted by CaLviNx
Hi

There is a simple cure for MNR not accepting orders, place your order with another supplier.....


Regards

---

Here here. Id add to that the way in which they put kit buyers as a higher priority versus other sales. Its never easy to turn business away, but its a great feeling to know your in safe hands.

Rgds

Rich

quote:

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Originally posted by JoaoCaldeiraWhat can I do (cheaply) to decrease the unsprung wheight???

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quote:

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Originally posted by CaLviNx
Hi

There is a simple cure for MNR not accepting orders, place your order with another supplier.....


Regards

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quote:

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Originally posted by G.Man
Wow you know another company that sells Vortx's

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quote:

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Originally posted by RichieC
Here here. Id add to that the way in which they put kit buyers as a higher priority versus other sales. Its never easy to turn business away, but its a great feeling to know your in safe hands.

Rgds

Rich

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