dead engine 8 days before IVA
franky - 12/4/11 at 01:18 PM
Well was suppose to be doing all the final bits before my IVA next week, I've had very very recent oil pressure issues. Low low pressure at
idle but otherwise everything was fine, pressure still rising with RPM though, got to the point where it would show only 2psi idle with cold oil, 0
when warm.
No knocking, still sounded sweet and went very well. Everything checked, sensors, constant pressure valves etc. So the engine has got to come
out.
I've a 'spare' engine however its a 3.2 evo engine that will require a CAT for IVA and trying to find somewhere to make one in time is
proving nearly impossible.
The car is in bits feels like going back 6 months, with a big kick in the teeth. The old engine is still salvageable but I think it needs new mains
in it. I guess atleast its still running with no noises.
Feeling grumpy!
blakep82 - 12/4/11 at 01:24 PM
does your gauge and sender definitely work ok? what sender are you using? and what gauge?
franky - 12/4/11 at 01:28 PM
stack display, stack solid state sensors, i've checked/swapped sensors around with the same results.
[Edited on 12/4/11 by franky]
mookaloid - 12/4/11 at 01:40 PM
quote:
Originally posted by franky
No knocking, still sounded sweet and went very well.
Electrical gauges can be funny sometimes even with all the right kit.
I wouldn't take it out just yet. It sounds like it should at least hang on until after the test.
I would get a mechanical gauge to check the pressure with before condemning it anyway.
WORKSHOP MASTER ENGINE OIL PRESSURE GAUGE / TESTING KIT | eBay UK
adithorp - 12/4/11 at 01:40 PM
I'd be checking every thing twice before pulling the engine out. Are you 100% the gauge is accurate? Do you still have an oil pressure switch in?
Can you put either an alternating mechanical gauge in or a simple presure swich and bulb to confirm the low presure? Is the relief valve OK? Is the
pick-up pipe clear?
If it has to come out phone VOSA and get a postponement.
mcerd1 - 12/4/11 at 01:48 PM
have you got any other gauges you could test it with ? (mechanical gauge for preference)
[edit: too slow again...]
[Edited on 12/4/2011 by mcerd1]
franky - 12/4/11 at 01:50 PM
All the pressures have been checked as accurate about 5 times, really didn't want to be in this position, all pickup's are clear, relief
valve is working fine and swapped with another. Going to see how I get on and call VOSA thursday if its not looking good.
Mr Whippy - 12/4/11 at 01:53 PM
Totally agree not to take the engine out yet, you should buy a pressure switch or an analogue gauge first, they are not too expensive and being
plumbed in are more trustworthy than a digital one. A switch would at least tell you it’s got pressure. I have not refitted a gauge in my car as I
find I tend to pay too much attention to what they are doing when 99.99% of the time it’s just irrelevant.
russbost - 12/4/11 at 02:04 PM
Personally I'd chuck about 4 cans of STP in it & deal with it after IVA test!
Alternatively I don't suppose you were going to Edmonton were you?
link to my thread!
David Jenkins - 12/4/11 at 02:05 PM
Does your oil pump have a pressure relief valve? Maybe it's stuck open?
That would give the symptoms you describe (it's happened to me, but easy to fix on a x-flow pump).
eccsmk - 12/4/11 at 02:14 PM
u2u sent 
franky - 12/4/11 at 02:17 PM
quote:
Originally posted by David Jenkins
Does your oil pump have a pressure relief valve? Maybe it's stuck open?
That would give the symptoms you describe (it's happened to me, but easy to fix on a x-flow pump).
Yes, swapped it after your advice in the other thread thanks Made no change.
I don't want to risk the engine going bang on the way to IVA(45 miles each way to VOSA Nottingham). Also the engines still worth something as it
is and a lot less broken, the speed the lack of oil pressure is going down too means I don't think it'd do a long trip, within 10 miles
its gone from flicking on at low rpm to staying on showing next to no or zero pressure at idle, if things move at this speed how long before it
starts loosing pressure above idle? It seems to be on a exponential curve towards death. It has done 167k in a car that revs to nearly 8000rpm
ETA, the digital sensors were checked against known pressures and were spot on, also the channels in the dash were checked to make sure that there
was nothing strange going on there and they were fine too.
I've used the original switch and that gave the same results.
[Edited on 12/4/11 by franky]
Agriv8 - 12/4/11 at 02:18 PM
Sump Pickup problem ? have you had the sump off / modiffied / broken pickup pipe pulling air not oil is oil getting to the top of the engine / rockers
ect ?
regards
Agriv8
franky - 12/4/11 at 02:23 PM
quote:
Originally posted by Agriv8
Sump Pickup problem ? have you had the sump off / modiffied / broken pickup pipe pulling air not oil is oil getting to the top of the engine / rockers
ect ?
regards
Agriv8
Oil flow is still fine all round the engine especially when revved, the sump/pickup hasn't been modified and still seems fine.
omega0684 - 12/4/11 at 02:27 PM
don't worry bud you'll find out whats wrong, i had no drive 2 days before the rollers and i had to take my engine out twice in a weekend,
still made it to the rollers just like you'll make it to IVA,
chin up!
coyoteboy - 12/4/11 at 02:57 PM
quote:
Oil flow is still fine all round the engine especially when revved, the sump/pickup hasn't been modified and still seems fine
Well there's surely only 2 places that this can be going wrong. Big ends/mains are wearing away at an alarming rate, causing massive pressure
loss or pump is wearing away. The only way you can identify either is by replacing? Oh, and check your waterways for mayo just in case it's being
peed across from an oil into a water gallery, but obviously you'd expect to be consuming large amounts!
Incidentally I just found mind dropped to zero on idle the other week, untl I've given it some beans and the relief valve started working again
[Edited on 12/4/11 by coyoteboy]
mad-butcher - 12/4/11 at 05:11 PM
any signs of metal particles in the oil.
steve m - 12/4/11 at 05:32 PM
Any sign of oil in the sump?
norfolkluego - 12/4/11 at 05:35 PM
Am I right, did someone say it's a crossflow, if so I'm not sure you've got anything to worry about. My crossflow registered 3 psi when
cold, sod all when warm, breathed like an iron foundry and we used to sprint it with no ill effects, it was just like that.
[Edited on 12/4/11 by norfolkluego]
tomgregory2000 - 12/4/11 at 05:37 PM
Correct grade of oil?
Could it just be too thin?
Werner Van Loock - 12/4/11 at 05:44 PM
Does it also have a seperate pressure switch? What does that do? Only get alarmed when than one switches.
Is your pressure sender in the right place on the engine? Has it ever worked before?
Is the engine grounded properly and is your batteryvoltage ok?
As advised above, use a mechanical gauge first.
daniel mason - 12/4/11 at 05:46 PM
its a bmw m3 lump i think
norfolkluego - 12/4/11 at 05:47 PM
quote:
Originally posted by tomgregory2000
Correct grade of oil?
Could it just be too thin?
Good shout, are you using 20W50, it's a bit like lard but it's the right stuff
franky - 12/4/11 at 05:52 PM
Its a m3 engine, 3.0 one. I've checked/replaced all pressure valves/switches related to oil. The pressure is measured where the BMW sensor is
located.
Zero metal in the oil, correct grade(5w40) I think.
[Edited on 12/4/11 by franky]
Its been working 100% for the past 9 months. Sensors/dash worked fine, tried on another engine and are working fine. Tested using the bmw pressure
switch too.
[Edited on 12/4/11 by franky]
norfolkluego - 12/4/11 at 06:05 PM
quote:
Originally posted by franky
Its a m3 engine, 3.0 one.
[Edited on 12/4/11 by franky]
Ah, so not a crossflow then, skip the treacle er....20w50
mad-butcher - 12/4/11 at 06:38 PM
can you back track on what you've done on the car since it last worked perfectly, like messed about with the dashboard banged the ecu etc
tony