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Zetec Flywheel Bolts
Plunky - 13/5/17 at 07:56 AM

Morning all,
With regards to the flywheel bolts on a 2.0 Zetec (Blacktop).
I know these require a sealant when fitting, to prevent any leaks.
Three questions;
1. Can you reuse the bolts?
2. What sealant should be used when fitting the bolts? Loctite?
3. Best way to lock the engine to torque up the bolts?

Cheers,
Liam

SJ - 13/5/17 at 10:49 AM

Loctite threadlock is what I used on mine. There is nothing to seal, you just need to stop the bolts vibrating loose.

I believe the standard bolts are not supposed to be reused. I ended up using ARP bolts as I couldn't get standard ones when I needed them. They were £60 a set though.

coozer - 13/5/17 at 12:35 PM

I'd recommend arp bolts as well...

£60? That sounds harsh, have a shop around.. I've just bought a set for my rover v8 and they cost me £20.90p

obfripper - 13/5/17 at 01:43 PM

The reason for no reuse recommendation is the thread sealant/lock is preapplied to the new bolt as a hard compound, and after bolt removal will peel away from the threads and not reseal if used again .
I have reused the old ones by dieing off the old sealant (using a split die opened up to not affect the thread), then reinstalling using stud grade loctite applied to the bolt.
The bolt is not torqued to yield in original use, so should be mechanically ok for reuse.

Dave

SJ - 13/5/17 at 03:22 PM

quote:

£60? That sounds harsh, have a shop around.. I've just bought a set for my rover v8 and they cost me £20.90p


I wanted to get the engine in that day and happened to be passing Burton Power. They aren't the cheapest!

SJ - 13/5/17 at 03:25 PM

quote:

The reason for no reuse recommendation is the thread sealant/lock is preapplied to the new bolt as a hard compound,


It was 10 years ago when I did mine so perhaps I'm remembering wrong with the suggestion of Loctite. The bolts will come with instruction on how to install though.

obfripper - 13/5/17 at 04:02 PM

It's only the oe fitment bolts that have the preapplied threadlock compound, uprated arp bolts have to be installed with loctite to their given specs.

On you last point, the cheapest way to lock your flywheel is a small length of angle iron bolted down to a bellhousing mounting hole, with the edge engaged with the ringgear.
It's only iirc 60nm so shouldn't take too much effort to tighten, using a 6 point socket with a shallow chamfer will help to prevent the socket slipping off.

Dave

Plunky - 14/5/17 at 03:06 PM

Thanks for all the advice.

dhutch - 5/6/17 at 10:01 PM

quote:
Originally posted by obfripper
The reason for no reuse recommendation is the thread sealant/lock is preapplied to the new bolt as a hard compound, and after bolt removal will peel away from the threads and not reseal if used again .
I have reused the old ones by dieing off the old sealant (using a split die opened up to not affect the thread), then reinstalling using stud grade loctite applied to the bolt.
The bolt is not torqued to yield in original use, so should be mechanically ok for reuse.

Sounds reasonable. While an important application, I don't expect the grade of thread lock used in overly critical?

quote:
Originally posted by obfripper
On you last point, the cheapest way to lock your flywheel is a small length of angle iron bolted down to a bellhousing mounting hole, with the edge engaged with the ringgear.
It's only iirc 60nm so shouldn't take too much effort to tighten, using a 6 point socket with a shallow chamfer will help to prevent the socket slipping off.

Sounds a cunning plan, although surely even if the bellhousing is already off the gearbox, limits access if you fit it to the engine to undo the flywheel?

That said, as yet I have failed to think of a better plan, certainly as my impact gun is playing up.



Daniel

obfripper - 5/6/17 at 10:40 PM

I was meaning on the block side mounting holes for the bellhousing, you also could use a double ended ring spanner between the bolt hole and one of the clutch mounting holes to hold the flywheel from turning, or get posh and make a strip of steel like this to do the same.

https://www.evomoto.com/article_images/steps/step_419.jpeg

I would use a stud grade of loctite as it is thinner and will flow round the threads better to give an oil tight seal, normal grade would probably be ok but may want applying to the hole as well as the bolt to ensure full coverage of the thread.

Dave

dhutch - 5/6/17 at 11:09 PM

quote:
Originally posted by obfripper
I was meaning on the block side mounting holes for the bellhousing, you also could use a double ended ring spanner between the bolt hole and one of the clutch mounting holes to hold the flywheel from turning, or get posh and make a strip of steel like this to do the same.
Ahhh, late at night... ... That makes so much more sense.

Thanks

dhutch - 8/6/17 at 12:00 PM

Random question as its not in front of me right now, but what size is the head?

I know its a thin-head but just wondering what size socket the job needs and I'll order one to grind flat.



Daniel

SJ - 8/6/17 at 04:10 PM

Pretty sure they are a 17mm socket. Why do you need to grind one?

02GF74 - 8/6/17 at 05:38 PM

quote:
Originally posted by SJ Why do you need to grind one?


Most if not all sockets are rounded off at the opening. Since op is saying the bolt head is thinner than usual, grinding off tbe curved edge will increase the contact area of the six flats.

SJ - 8/6/17 at 09:24 PM

I see the logic but there's no need if you have some decent sockets.

dhutch - 9/6/17 at 01:27 PM

quote:
Originally posted by SJ
Pretty sure they are a 17mm socket. Why do you need to grind one?

In rushing in the evening after work I've half rounded one of the heads, so for the sake of £6 for a socket thats not part of a set, should hopefully come out without complications tonight.

Daniel

[Edited on 9/6/2017 by dhutch]

dhutch - 9/6/17 at 01:28 PM

In rushing in the evening after work I've half rounded one of the heads, so for the sake of £6 for a socket thats not part of a set, should hopefully come out without complications tonight.

Daniel