Hi guys,
So up to almost last fluids, engine oil and coolant.... so close to to starting or should I say trying lol.
So 4.5L of engine oil required in my silver top blocked engine etc, what oil would you go for in early running in after New piston rings, new crank
bearings etc.
For coolant, what type, mix and and estimated quantity? Obviously not precise due to golf radiator etc, just an idea.
Cheers!!!!
Personally and some would disagree i'm sure, but if this is an engine rebuild and new installation, I'd use cheap oil of the right grade and
plain water to run it up and ascertain the quantities
Then if you do have a disaster, things to fix or leaks to resolve you don't lose it all.
If all is OK then put in your decent oil and antifreeze of choice
Hi ya,
Was thinking that on the oil. Change it and filter after a few hours running. Will just water not have a heating temp change?
quote:
Originally posted by the_big_1
Hi ya,
Was thinking that on the oil. Change it and filter after a few hours running. Will just water not have a heating temp change?
Yeah was only thinking of a first start up, may be a few mins running to check for leaks etc.
Antifreeze / coolant isn't to expensive I guess worst case.
I guess I could start up with water, run a few mins to check for leaks, drop the water if all well and add the antifreeze mix. What's the correct
oil spec and anti freeze spec?
In the past ive run cheapo Asda oil in my crossflows, just for starting up and checking for leaks
but on the road, would only use a better class of oil
As for the water, just clean normal tap water is fine for initial startup runs, but you must put antifreeze in as soon as your happy with the system,
What oil grade and anti freeze type for a silver top?
Amazon Basics oil goes in everything except my 370z, as it meets all requirements (for my engines) and is cheap and quickly delivered - after using it
for a while I found this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a9DWGtXpYUc
For fluids - lob in some cheap coolant if you plan to get the engine up to temp - without it you may see localised boiling and reduction in cooling
capability internal to the head/block areas which are not visible from the rad cap. Don't cheap out on a shiny new build in this area!
[Edited on 28/4/21 by coyoteboy]
Is the amazon oil ok for running in, change piston rings and bearings. Doesn't mention if its synthetic etc etc.
What type anti freeze, is normal OAT type ok something like this but not from Halfords obviously lol
https://www.halfords.com/motoring/engine-oils-and-fluids/antifreeze/halfords-oat-ready-mixed-antifreeze-5-litres-233536.html
They have synthetic and dino I believe.
Hi Guys,,
For running in phase, say first 100 miles, is this oil correct in the Zetec?
https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-870-motul-4000-motion-10w-30-mineral-car-engine-oil.aspx?VariantID=1102
Search ebay for item 121821319832 Its running in oil for new built engines. £22 delivered. Its not to be used for more than 500 miles but will do the job you need doing
Fantastic!!!! Exactly what I was looking for!!!!
What coolant would you use?
I just use the Triple QX red that Eurocarparts sell. I mixed mine 50/50 with de-ionised water.
Hi guys,
Started car on the run in oil and it's mega noisy, tappets banging like crazy, is the run in oil OK for a silver top???
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Running-In-Oil-Breaking-In-Oil-SAE-30-5L-5-Litres-/121821319832?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286
How long did you have the engine started using the oil?
Did you Prime the engine before start up?...IE remove crank position sensor, ensure the fuel isnt connected then turn the key and watch the oil light
until it goes out. That way you know the oil is being moved around and you are ok to reconnect the fuel and CPS and finally start the car.
Hi ya,
I did yes. Oil pressure was well up. Had the engine running for 5 mins. Oil pressure around 5 bar. Need to find a semi synthetic 5-30W oil
It sounds like you've done everything correct so wouldn't worry too much. If you are worried then go for a CHEAP 5w 30 as this still needs to be thrown away after a couple of hundred miles. Part of the bedding in procedure is also to flush the engine of any swarf etc which the bedding in oil has probably done. The cylinder needs to build up pressure to allow the piston rings to expand and seat etc so do everything right for proper results.
Hi ya,
Yeah, next plan is to run some semi synthetic 5-30W for a few hundred miles then change it. Will this oil do? Work correctly with tappets etc.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B002XUQTDC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_6XF3BC40MT3FRQRB0F14
Also....ask these guys about what to use for your intended set up. I know a few guys that race cars and will only use these. They will happily answer
any questions you may have
Oil
quote:
Originally posted by the_big_1
Hi ya,
Yeah, next plan is to run some semi synthetic 5-30W for a few hundred miles then change it. Will this oil do? Work correctly with tappets etc.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B002XUQTDC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_6XF3BC40MT3FRQRB0F14
Will get the Amazon stuff, not a bad price!