franky
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| posted on 6/12/10 at 05:21 PM |
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GKD update
About time for a bit of an update I think! 
It may not look like it but quite a bit of progress has been made.
The engine is fully plumbed in now and sounds sweet as a nut. The hardest part was finding all the hose's that i'd taken off the airbox
and ICV as they were lost in the depth's of the garage.
To keep everything in the bonnet line this is my airfilter set-up. I've had to trim the mounting boot at an angle to bring it in towards the
airbox, the airbox will have some mounting brackets bolted to it, so then I can pull it in tighter with cable ties, using the plank of wood method
from the scuttle to the nose cone this clears it with about 0.00001020201 of a MM spare.
Hopefully with the airfilter mounted on the heat shield it should get nice cool air. I've a little NACA duct to fit to the nosecone to draw
cold air straight onto it. It fits just inside the nosecone as you can see, with about 10mm around it. the hardest part was working out if the fan
switch would still fit in, speaking of which its a duel switch however i've wired it so it comes on at 80 deg C, I've also fitted a fan
override switch on the dash too. The radiator with its thicker than standard core(75mm extreme version) seems to keep everything in check nicely.
Even on hot days the fan brings it down in temp quite quick. Think the fact the radiator sits at an angle so you can have a larger surface area than
normal is a nice touch.
I had to put a blanking piece on the air suction feed for the brake servo(short red hose)
Also a temporary spring to give the throttle bodies a stronger return, i'm not sure if the original pedal had a spring built in?
I've fitted a small VW expansion tank on the passenger footwell, this was the ideal shape and price(£11!) also its got a low level output that
i've yet got to wire in on the dash.
Lots of work has been done making it easy to remove the dash so everything is on connector blocks allowing it to come off complete. Its been slightly
more work than normal as i'm not using the original dash or idiot lights. I did use the GKD bmw loom which is of good quality. Along with the
dash i've made a one piece tunnel top and a switch panel for my cars rocket and missile launchers, well not quite but one for the dash as I
wanted it isolated, fuel pump, fan override and traction/launch control. I've also got a push button starter, idiot lights are above the
savage switch's. The control for the traction/launch control will sit just below. the four buttons for the stack dash are on the right of the
scuttle.
A lot of finishing needs to be done on the bodywork, the area under the dash is going to be boxed in, the sides of the switch panel are going to be
paneled too with a 12v supply on the passenger side, once their all in position/drilled/welded i'm going to paint them all satin black.
To fit everything in neatly i've had to make a second skin to the dash, thanks to dave for the extra fuse box Its a bit tidier now than in
the pic.
Headlights are in position along with front indicators, I've cut the mounting tube and routed the cables inside, the idea along with the one
piece tunnel top is just to give it cleaner lines. I've had to send back my rear lights as they were fouling my fuel tank so i'm going
for surface mounted numbers and traditional looking lights on the rear cycle wings. The grey cable you can see is some belden for the ABS sensors,
the ends of all the connections need sorting out and are just in their rough position.
I've fitted a one piece rear panel too, i'm hoping to get the side panels tig welded to the rear and then the welds ground flush in a
caterham style. Still got a bit of work to do where but I need remove the cage to get in properly. One of the wings is mounted just to see what it
looks like. I've got hold of some m3 contour style wheels which I love because of the deep dish, I can't afford to keep these and the
new OZ wheels so one set will be going up for sale!
The brake M/C are now connected up and in position and with a pressure switch for the full throttle shift on the racelogic
A nice little air horn(£17 off ebay) was fitted as my donor one was dead. Its so loud its unreal!
I've also made the nose cone hinged so it can be tilted forward clear of the radiator without having to remove as a whole.
the scuttle engine side is just about done, I've just got to tidy up some of the cables a little, going to cover them in a bit heat shrink.
I've put the engine loom back in the BMW box as it keeps it all together and looks neater(ish). The engine loom has been put on the scuttle too
along with the diagnostic port. This was very useful when attempting to get things running right, I had one fault code showing which turned out to
be a wiring fault on my part and a simple swap of connectors sorted it.
Currently the car looks like this.....
If all goes to plan I can collect my propshaft this week, then i'll fit that along with the brakes(properly) so I can drive it out of the
garage before Christmas. I'll then pop it down to the village garage to check emissions
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scootz
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| posted on 6/12/10 at 05:23 PM |
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Looks great!
It's Evolution Baby!
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Pdlewis
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| posted on 6/12/10 at 05:26 PM |
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wow thats awsome!
Build Photo Album
Updated 05/02/2009
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mookaloid
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| posted on 6/12/10 at 05:28 PM |
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Nice build  - which engine is that - I can't tell one BMW engine from another 
"That thing you're thinking - it wont be that."
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speedyxjs
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| posted on 6/12/10 at 05:30 PM |
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Mmmmmm, very nice!
How low does your sump hang below the chassis? It looks almost as bad as mine! 
How long can i resist the temptation to drop a V8 in?
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Coopz
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| posted on 6/12/10 at 05:30 PM |
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Great looking car, Engine looks huge a real snug fit!
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norm007
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| posted on 6/12/10 at 05:31 PM |
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The only word that springs to mind is "SEXUAL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!"
Something about this, so very wrong.....I have to laugh out loud, I wish I didn`t like this!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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franky
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| posted on 6/12/10 at 05:33 PM |
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The car's not big at all in terms of wheel base so its a tight fit in the engine bay
Using the twin pickup sump i've got 95-100mm of ground clearance, I think that's enough!?
The engine/box/LSD is from a e36 m3.
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chris mason
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| posted on 6/12/10 at 05:39 PM |
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could be wrong as i don't know the set up details, but i'd suspect a lot of cooling issues with that set up once your up and running 
The idea behind an header tank is that it is mounted at the highest point in the system, the way you've plumbed yours is the way you'd fit
an expansion tank.
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carpmart
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| posted on 6/12/10 at 05:45 PM |
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I like that a lot!
You only live once - make the most of it!
Radical Clubsport, Kwaker motor
'94 MX5 MK1, 1.8
F10 M5 - 600bhp Daily Hack
Range Rover Sport - Wife's Car
Mercedes A class - Son's Car
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BigLee
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| posted on 6/12/10 at 06:03 PM |
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What a beauty!! Makes me want to complete my build, then sell it so I can get me one of those!!!
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BenB
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| posted on 6/12/10 at 06:06 PM |
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That looks very nice. How much power has it got mister?
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franky
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| posted on 6/12/10 at 06:32 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by chris mason
could be wrong as i don't know the set up details, but i'd suspect a lot of cooling issues with that set up once your up and running
The idea behind an header tank is that it is mounted at the highest point in the system, the way you've plumbed yours is the way you'd fit
an expansion tank.
It is an expansion tank!
the radiator has the header tank built in, the level is high as I had the car running and the coolant has expanded, its now back under the max
line. No cooling issues at all.
Power wise it was making 304bhp in the car with a bespoke re-map, its now not running the Aircon pump/clean air pump and PAS pump so it might make
0.1bhp more. The exhaust should help too. It picks up revs like a bike engine but is nice and linear in its power delivery so should be really nice
to drive.
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franky
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| posted on 6/12/10 at 06:34 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by speedyxjs
Mmmmmm, very nice!
How low does your sump hang below the chassis? It looks almost as bad as mine!
About 20mm, gives me 95-100mm ground clearance.
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handyandy
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| posted on 6/12/10 at 06:36 PM |
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Wow that looks stunning
I,m sure that,ll be one fun car to drive with the M power
cheers
andy
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chris mason
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| posted on 6/12/10 at 06:38 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by franky
quote:
Originally posted by chris mason
could be wrong as i don't know the set up details, but i'd suspect a lot of cooling issues with that set up once your up and running
The idea behind an header tank is that it is mounted at the highest point in the system, the way you've plumbed yours is the way you'd fit
an expansion tank.
It is an expansion tank!
the radiator has the header tank built in, the level is high as I had the car running and the coolant has expanded, its now back under the max
line. No cooling issues at all.
Where does the red hose go to?
Looking at the pictures, your radiator has not got a header tank built in, it's just got a filler neck.
That set up requires the use of an expansion tank, so the blue hose you have coming from the filler neck would need to go to an expansion tank.
[Edited on 6/12/10 by chris mason]
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franky
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| posted on 6/12/10 at 06:43 PM |
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Joins onto the blue hose that's connected to the top of the rad.....
Simples
[Edited on 6/12/10 by franky]
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rodgling
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| posted on 6/12/10 at 07:16 PM |
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Looks awesome, lots of nice touches there, especially with the neatness of the wiring under the dash. Good luck getting the power down in the snow
:-)
I see what you mean about the gearknob getting close to the handbrake, it does look closer than mine, which is a bit odd - maybe my gearbox is a bit
shorter. I think it'll be OK in practice - handbrake turns in 2nd might be awkward though, but I'm sure you'll cope.
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Stuart_B
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| posted on 6/12/10 at 07:20 PM |
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wow, that looks amazing, i so want one
black mk indy, 1.6pinto on cbr600 bike carb's.
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richardh
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| posted on 6/12/10 at 07:29 PM |
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love it, went to look at them as they are so close to me.
But my heart is set on another MNR
something about the bodywork not being grp that just reminded me of GBsc or whatever they are called now.
Great looking build though
Time for a change!
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franky
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| posted on 6/12/10 at 07:50 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by richardh
love it, went to look at them as they are so close to me.
But my heart is set on another MNR
something about the bodywork not being grp that just reminded me of GBsc or whatever they are called now.
Great looking build though
I know what you mean about the bodywork, it nearly put me off and it does take extra work but I prefer the cleaner look you can get with ally, oh
caterham use it too
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daniel mason
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| posted on 6/12/10 at 09:32 PM |
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excellent mate, what diamiter are the exhaust primaries? they look very small in the pics.but its hard to tell. also what diff are you using? with the
large rims and m3 diff do you think the gearing will be ok? this was my concern when using the standarrd 4.1;1 honda diff in mine so i dropped wheel
sie down to 13" to lower the gearing a bit!
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franky
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| posted on 6/12/10 at 09:42 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by daniel mason
excellent mate, what diamiter are the exhaust primaries? they look very small in the pics.but its hard to tell. also what diff are you using? with the
large rims and m3 diff do you think the gearing will be ok? this was my concern when using the standarrd 4.1;1 honda diff in mine so i dropped wheel
sie down to 13" to lower the gearing a bit!
I can't remember the manifold diameter, They're based on the standard m3 ones which no-one's really improved on as they're
that good, Length is from a set of DTM race ones, perfect for the stroke/bore of the engine
I'm using the standard m3 LSD, gearing will be great for the road, its geared to hit 160ish in top, I don't mind if its over-geared
slightly, I can swap the CWP cheaply due to number of ratio's around for these diff's. That will be done at a later point when funds
allow. With 300ish bhp i'm not worried about drive out of corners!!
I've some smaller 15" dymags for track work, I can't go down to 13" though as they won't clear the brakes. The
standard size wheels make perfect sense to me for road use.
[Edited on 6/12/10 by franky]
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daniel mason
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| posted on 6/12/10 at 10:14 PM |
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I agree completely. The more you can use from the donor the better. Especially when working to a budget. Although my donor was not cheap I think
I'm looking at about £11k to £11.5 k on the road which I don't think is too bad for the power and hopefully reliabilty (25 k donor engine)
I could have saved more in certain areas too as I bought an expensive pro alloy race radiator and a set of caterham wheels with new a048's
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franky
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| posted on 6/12/10 at 10:28 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by daniel mason
I agree completely. The more you can use from the donor the better. Especially when working to a budget. Although my donor was not cheap I think
I'm looking at about £11k to £11.5 k on the road which I don't think is too bad for the power and hopefully reliabilty (25 k donor engine)
I could have saved more in certain areas too as I bought an expensive pro alloy race radiator and a set of caterham wheels with new a048's
Thats a good on the road cost for a s2000 engined MNR. That will be an awesome car! That engine/donor was a very close second on my list.
Mine will be under that in cost, I've spent cash on bits to keep it more reliable like yourself, Radtec radiator/radtec oil cooler. Even the
dash as i've had 2 bad experiences with dash's that weren't anyway near 100% accurate, the racelogic is just because it'd be
nice to have something else to play with and see how it can alter the driving experience. The Launch control should make for some good 1/4mile times
too!
Just the bits that make it a better place to be for myself.
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