ned
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posted on 22/1/06 at 10:24 PM |
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xe build pics (warning - lots of pics!)
I have been beavering away on my engine lately, just thought I'd post a few piccies up, the xe doesn't get promoted enough on here
Block completely stripped (including core and gallery plugs), acid dipped and bored out 2mm oversize, then painted:
block1
Reground crank assembled with new timing disc, steel flywheel, twin plate clutch and then balanced:
crank1
Crank fitted into block, oil pumped/front cover fitted:
crank in
Forged oversize, high intruder pistons and forged rods assembled prior to fitting:
rods and pistons
pistons and rods fitted:
block and pistons
bottom end
westfield wet sump:
westfield_sump_2
they're not called intruder pistons for nothing:
intruder pistons
valves out of head, head cleaned up:
valves out
double valve springs and titanium caps:
uprated springs and tit. caps
double spring and titanium cap vs standard spring with sintered cap:
spring comparrison
new valve seats to suit double springs and new stem seals fitted:
valve seats and stem seals
valves cleaned up, reground and refitted:
valves in
laminated steel head gasket:
head gasket
head fitted and cams loosely in place:
head on
cam cover stripped and flange cut off, ready for painting:
camcover
a few bits left to do, main thing being timing it up:
cambelt on
still got to fit these:
throttles2
Any questions?
Ned
beware, I've got yellow skin
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cidersurfer
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posted on 22/1/06 at 10:29 PM |
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How's the overdraft? Nice work
shimming solid lifters is a job for a friend...
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zilspeed
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posted on 22/1/06 at 10:30 PM |
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Not a question - just a general comment.....
That's one mean lookin' block. Bet that'll make some beans when it's up and running. It'll even have a reverse gear....
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Mix
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posted on 22/1/06 at 10:35 PM |
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Very impressive............After Eights excepted though.....
Mick
[Edited on 22/1/06 by Mix]
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ned
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posted on 22/1/06 at 10:37 PM |
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overdraft isn't too bad, I've accumlated the bits over the last 2 years, most of which were second hand but brand new from boy racers who
didn't know what they were buying.
beans wise, i have known these very cams to make circa 215bhp in a race engine, but that was standard pistons and weber 45's, I'm hoping
for more but conservatively/sensibly 210bhp+
As to total cost I'd rather not say as it scares me a little!
Ned.
beware, I've got yellow skin
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cidersurfer
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posted on 22/1/06 at 10:46 PM |
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XEs are Back end was all over the place today Finally got around to taking some pics of my inlet too
shimming solid lifters is a job for a friend...
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shortie
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posted on 22/1/06 at 10:52 PM |
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quote:
It'll even have a reverse gear....
Who needs reverse gear!!!
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ed_crouch
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posted on 22/1/06 at 11:04 PM |
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quote:
Who needs reverse gear!!!
Depends on how many trees u understeer into!!
Seriously, though:
Ned, that is one expensive looking motor. The throttles alone are several hundred are they not?? nice looking job. I take it from the vernier pulleys
that you've had the block decked too?
Good luck with the rest of the build. Ive chickened out and am going for an Indy cos I cant be arsed to make the chassis.
Ed.
I-iii-iii-iii-ts ME!
Hurrah.
www.wings-and-wheels.net
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mookaloid
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posted on 22/1/06 at 11:05 PM |
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Superb Ned
Engine building is a very satisfying pastime - particulary when you are building something like that
Cheers
Mark
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ned
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posted on 22/1/06 at 11:21 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by ed_crouch
I take it from the vernier pulleys that you've had the block decked too?
Sorry Ed, I don't understand. The block was checked but was not decked. The verniers are to time the camshafts!
Ned.
beware, I've got yellow skin
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NS Dev
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posted on 22/1/06 at 11:41 PM |
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I think you are being VERY conservative on the power there Ned!!
My bog std XE on std cams etc made 176hp at the wheels, just over 200 flywheel (on 48mm throttle bodies which did lose some midrange torque)
Your spec if the head is tidied up nicely should make at least 235hp at the flywheel.........................
Git!!
Best make sure I keep my car really light then!!!
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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ned
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posted on 22/1/06 at 11:47 PM |
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Nsdev, you are probably right, but i hate people who say, oo my car makes 250bhp when in reality it doesn't.
the cams really aren't all that. 220 at a push on a standard engine on 45's with no alternator. my engine is a 2.1, compresion around 11:1
(i have a thick head gasket which brings the compression back down from 11.5ish)
the head has had some work done and it came from a nova that ran nitrous, but i have no idea whether its better or worse than standard. it has been
oil/water fixed.
my engine is only running standard valves, could really do with some wasted stems to get the flow up a bit.
i'll have it rolling roaded in the car to get the dta mapped, so will get a rough idea, but again won't treat that as gospel either.
Ned.
beware, I've got yellow skin
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NS Dev
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posted on 22/1/06 at 11:53 PM |
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.... a refreshing attitude to power!!!
The mild cams certainly won't do any harm. 220 at a push on carbs will alomst certainly become 230 at a push on tb's, as 45's will
prob be holding it back at that power on the biggest chokes. nice throttle response though which is worth having on the racer if limited to carbs I
guess.
Main bits on the porting front are tidying around the valve seats (usually very good on these anyway but worth checking and a touch of opening up) and
thinning down the port dividers to give a nice "razor edge" at the tip of the port divider, all nicely blended again.
Yes the valve stems are a bit heavy duty but I am always worried about heads coming off diy waisted valves, and the aftermarket ones tend to blow the
budget a bit!
[Edited on 22/1/06 by NS Dev]
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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ned
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posted on 23/1/06 at 12:00 AM |
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yup, knife edges in the ports and well thumb sized behind the valves. we shall see.
now i'm just worried i need to buy an expensive gearbox!!
could also do with some longer trumpets aswell.
Ned.
beware, I've got yellow skin
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Stu16v
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posted on 23/1/06 at 12:12 AM |
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Ned, dont forget to do the rocker cover breather mod...
Nice work. I have a similar collection of bits for mine, when I finally get round to doing it!
Dont just build it.....make it!
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Mr G
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posted on 23/1/06 at 12:43 AM |
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Stop it Ned, you'll get billy all moist Now he's sold the zx12r engine
I still can't get over what your 45's and linkage etc went for on ebay
You get that xbox game ok in the end btw?
Oh yeah, and the engine looks ok
G
Normal is getting dressed in clothes that you buy for work and driving through traffic in a
car that you are still paying for - in order to get to the job you need to pay for the clothes
and the car, and the house you leave vacant all day so you can afford to live in it.
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ed_crouch
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posted on 23/1/06 at 02:55 AM |
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Ned,
Sorry, I didnt explain that U2U very well. Diagram is far better:
If you shorten the block (and hence distance X), the cam pulleys will rotate anticlockwise a little with the crank staying put, and the tensioner will
take up the additional slack.
Ive seen one engine in a magazine ages ago where the owner put a vernier on the cam to bring the valve timing back spot on.
Ed.
[Edited on 23/1/06 by ed_crouch]
Rescued attachment Neds engine.jpg
I-iii-iii-iii-ts ME!
Hurrah.
www.wings-and-wheels.net
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donut
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posted on 23/1/06 at 07:22 AM |
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I coff my hat to you Ned, that looks a fine bit of kit. Just need a car for it to go in ! [img][/img]
Andy
When I die, I want to go peacefully like my Grandfather did, in his sleep -- not screaming, like the passengers in his car.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/andywest1/
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ned
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posted on 23/1/06 at 07:37 AM |
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Ed,
I think you'd need to take a sizeable chunk off to have to fit verniers to compensate for that! the tensioner pulleys takes up the slack as
required most of the time. even with standard pulleys it'd have to be decked a considerable amount to put the cam timing out.
Stu,
I have cut most of the plate on the underside of the rockercover out to allow it to breath and not get clogged up so much, is this what you mean? I
know there is a different mod for when running dry sumped..
Ned.
[Edited on 23/1/06 by ned]
beware, I've got yellow skin
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NS Dev
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posted on 23/1/06 at 09:01 AM |
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aye, that's what he means.
When you're dry sumped you can dispense with the external breather pipe on the side altogether and just bung up the holes.
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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Phil. S
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posted on 23/1/06 at 10:34 AM |
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I've just cut out most of my baffle too. Seems to have made a huge difference. Before I coudln't fill it up above the min. mark on the
dipstick. But why was there a baffle in the first place?
Oh, fantastic engine Ned. I think I have piston envy!
"The unexamined life is not worth living" (Socrates)
"The unlived life is not worth examining" (Kopp)
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NS Dev
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posted on 23/1/06 at 11:36 AM |
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The baffle was there originally because the breather was linked into the inlet manifold and therefore needed plenty of packing in it to prevent oil
being drawn out.
When it is just vented to the atmosphere oil gets blown out.
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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ed_crouch
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posted on 23/1/06 at 12:16 PM |
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Yeh, a couple of thou wouldnt make any difference, but if the engines had a mil or so off the head and block faces over its life, it can start to be
significant.
Anyways, that is going to be one fast car!
Supercharge it. Go on!
Ed.
P.S. Although the CR might be a tad high for that...
[Edited on 23/1/06 by ed_crouch]
I-iii-iii-iii-ts ME!
Hurrah.
www.wings-and-wheels.net
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Phil. S
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posted on 23/1/06 at 04:16 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by NS Dev
The baffle was there originally because the breather was linked into the inlet manifold and therefore needed plenty of packing in it to prevent oil
being drawn out.
When it is just vented to the atmosphere oil gets blown out.
Yeh, but the baffle channels oil to the breather pipe, so it makes the problem worse. Putting the engine in for rear wheel drive is supposed to be the
cause of this, but I can't see why.
"The unexamined life is not worth living" (Socrates)
"The unlived life is not worth examining" (Kopp)
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NS Dev
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posted on 23/1/06 at 04:30 PM |
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nowt to do with rwd, purely the vacuum on the breather box.
Not really sure of the logic behind it but we had big probs on the old rwd mid engined nova until somebody told us about the mod.
Before cutting the baffle away we lost 2 ltrs per event. After cutting no losses at all.
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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